Tom Follery - Tacoma Build

ROCK SLIDERS


There's not much to say in regards to this post. I like fabricating my own things, but since I didn't have a tube bender or dimple punch, I decided to buy the rock sliders. I got them from . They are
the 80" version with plates. Also they came power coated. They are the bolt on type, though I welded them instead.



I mounted them up, adjusted the height, centered them, and finally welded them on. Easy Peasy.... Not much more to say. But I do like them even though I didn't build this one modification myself.

 

And my wife calls me crazy for just looking at this work of Art. Beautiful look and style. The first glance said Escalade to me. Very nice. Enjoy.

 

Thank you

 

REAR BUMPER AND SWING OUT TIRE CARRIER (Part 1)

After building the roof rack I knew that I couldn't just leave the front and rear bump as is (stock). Customization would be needed once again. So I decided to fabricate my own rear bumper. I drove down to the local metal supply and picked a piece of 6x6x3/16" square steel.



Next, I started off doing a lay out on it for sizing. Then got to the cutting. All cutting was done with a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a metal cutting disc.
.





Time to double check the cuts. and it worked fine.





Next was planing of the right and left riser pieces and mounting









I started planning the mounting method with some solid 1/2 x 4' bar stock. Which would be welded to the clevis points



The

$27 EMS Offroad Clevis Mounts, 1" x 5.5", Silver, Cold Rolled Steel 1018, Fits 3/4" Clevis or Shackle, Sold as a Pair

Clevis/Shackle Mounts were now mounted after cutting two square holes with angle grinder.





The bumper was brought into the garage for some final fitting and welding. As you can see, the bottom section had a few different angled pieces to give it a finished look. Also the rear light squares were cut out.











The bumper was then gone over with a grinding disc and then a orbital sander.



After the prep work a rough coat of primer was sprayed. A final fitting was done before the bedliner and paint were applied.





After a good cleaning and final prep, the bumper was ready for the black bed liner. I used Rust-oleum Truck bed coating for this job as it give a nice small particle spray and looks great.





It's hard to tell from the picture, but it came out looking really good.

 

REAR BUMPER AND SWING OUT TIRE CARRIER (Part 2)

This is where things got interesting. After a few days of driving around I felt the bumper was nice, but needed to be more useful. So I starting getting idea's for a swing out tire carrier, along with a few other accessories. (Shovel, HI lift jack & Hi-Lift Base, Pelican 1440 case for off road gear, drop down stainless table for cook outs, and a few Rotopax fuel/water) oh, yes and the spare tire as well....

I started off by fabricating the main tire carrier. It may be a littler overkill when it came to reinforcements. But I didn't want the loose the tire on the freeway. I designed it so it would be adjustable in case of a tire size change in the future. I also planned for the Rotopax mounts as well.













Here things were coming together fine.





Now I got to the Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-Hinge-Assembly. This was a item I purchased from 4xinnovations and saved me a lot of time fabrication. I also bought a Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-Latch-Assembly from them as well. I mounted it after some fitting, and yes I had to re-work my finished bumper.







The main swing out bar was welded on the hinge and spaced accordingly.



Here is the hinges final welding, bracing and finishing.





Next I came to the positioning of the "A" shaped tire mount. I had to make sure I had enough space behind the tire for a rotopax and the mount itself. I did so all was good. I would also add a lower mount for second Rotopax.





I fabricated two of these little guys to hold my HI Lift jack and allow me to lock it. They would be welded on the main swing out bar.









Next, I started fitting the Swing-Out-Tire-Carrier-Latch-Assembly. I highly recommend using both of these parts from 4xinnovations. They are well built and designed perfectly for doing a swing out bumper.



The drop down (Stainless Steel 18" x30") table was going to need a stop, so it would be mounted and locked when folded up. So I made the left arm of the star. The right arm of the star would be used after some clever cutting to hold the shovel. This unit took shape as I built it and was not actually a pre-planned idea. It just worked out to be shaped like a star. Notice that the Hi-lift jack mount as well.







Here is the holder for the Pelican 1440 case. It looks kind of involved because it was. But it is able to have a pelican case mounted in it and lock it in two places.



This is the final look before primer was sprayed.

 

REAR BUMPER AND SWING OUT TIRE CARRIER (Part 3)

Everything was fitted and tested before primer and paint. The shovel is locked on the carrier too with some tabs that are welded on the main swing out bar.











Rotopax - Gas and Water.



The bumper was painted once again with the new changes. The solid stainless steel dowel 3/4x 5" was welded into the left riser for the Latch-Assembly, and the Hinge-Assembly was topped off with a stainless steel skid pad made to keep you from scratching the paint from the Spring loaded pin. The pin holds the swing out open at two locking positions at 90 and 113 degrees.







Here is the completed swing out and bumper. The shovel is locked on the carrier too with some tabs that are welded on the main swing out bar. If you notice the hi lift jack is missing in some of the pictures, that is because I was painting and updating it with a parts kit at the time of the shots.











This is how the Pelican case is locked. There are two places actually. The channels of the box fit it into the mount and keep it secure.



Since I still had space, I mounted the Hi-lift base to the bottom of the stainless table.



One more modification I made during this time was I added

$127 AmeriLite for 1995-2000 Toyota Tacoma Pickup C-Type LED Tube Black Replacement Tail Light Brake Lamp Set - Driver and Passenger Side

AmeriLite LED rear tail lights. They are really nice, but there is some needed changes in the way the manufacture wired them. I finally overcame it and they have been perfect since.

Final impressions, after a year or so I think everything worked as planned and wouldn't change a thing, but it should be noted that if you decide to make a one arm swing out like this you will not be able to open the tail gate or camper shell window when the swing out is closed and locked. This is a good thing as thieves can't steel your stuff inside the bed, but you must also keep the the swing out open when your inside the camper to get in and out of it. So if you park in a parking lot near other cars, and need something from the truck bed, you will have to make sure that there is space in back of you to open it fully or you can get in. In that case another option would be to fabricate a two piece swing out to eliminate the amount of space in back of you to open it. But for me, there are no regrets.

 

FRONT BUMPER FABRICATION (Part 1)

Since the rear bumper turned out well, I figured I could do the same with the front as well. I started the standard piece by piece layout, and went from there.

I used a material called "Sintra" it's a 1/4" rigid PVC Board used for sign work. I cut the initial shape, fit it, and then took it from there. Sintra was easier to work with vs. cardboard as others use.

























After all the template pieces were cut, it was time to transfer the work to steel. I used 1/8" steel sheet for the top piece and 3/16" for the rest. Using a straight edge, I tack welded it to the sheet and used a Dewalt disc
grinder with 4 1/2"" cutting disc to cut out the steel pieces.

















After most of the pieces were cut I tack welded the bumper together.

 

FRONT BUMPER FABRICATION (Part 2)

Now it was time for the fitting stage and fabrication of the lower pieces.





The initial fit was good, so next I fabricated the mounting method.






The lower pieces were cut and tack welded in place.











Some clevis points were added and the mounting parts as well.





Next I cut the bumper to allow for two side lights and one light bar in front.





I made a little jig to hold the 3" light box square with the bumper while welding.



All of the cuts were made so it was time to fit the lights









The final welding was completed and the prep work was started for the painting stage. Just as I did with the rear bumper, I first used primer, then sprayed it with the same bed liner I used on most of the truck. Then, I sprayed a flat black paint on top of that.









I am pleased with it turned out. It has the look I wanted and accommodated the lighting as well. I don't need a winch because I don't do any real rock crawling. I use the rig for camping and long mountain and desert trips. If I ever decide to do any hard core crawling, Ill buy another 1st gen and set it up accordingly.

120W 25" White Amber Yellow Single Row Led Light Bar Spot/Flood/Combo Beam Super Bright Led Light Bar Running Lights Headlight Bar Fog Work Driving Lamp for Off-road Van AWD SUV Van UTE Golf Raptor

120W 25" White Amber Yellow Single Row Led Light Bar

$27 LED Cubes, Nirider 2PCS 84W 3" LED Pod Lights Off Road Driving Lights Spot Flood Combo Light Bars Fog Lights Square Work Light for Truck Car SUV ATV UTV Boat

LED Cubes, Nirider 2PCS 84W CREE 3 Inch LED Pod Lights

DEWALT 7 Amp 4-1/2 in. Small Angle Grinder

$27 EMS Offroad Clevis Mounts, 1" x 5.5", Silver, Cold Rolled Steel 1018, Fits 3/4" Clevis or Shackle, Sold as a Pair

Weld thru Clevis/Shackle Mounts

$25 AUTMATCH D Ring Shackle 3/4" Shackles (2 Pack) 41887Ibs Break Strength, Clevis Shackle with 7/8" Screw Pin and Shackle Isolator Washers Kit for Tow Strap Winch Off Road Vehicle Recovery, Yellow

AUTMATCH Shackles 3/4" D Ring Shackle (2 Pack)

Avanti Pro 4-1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 7/8 in. Thin Kerf Metal Cut-Off Disc

 

GRILL MOD

Unfortunately the stock grill along with faded headlights weren't cutting it anymore with the new bumper installed so I to take of this problem. First I bought some one piece

$150 ACANII - For 2001-2004 Toyota Tacoma Pickup LED DRL Smoked Headlights w/Corner Signal Lamps Driver & Passenger Side

ACANII LED Smoked Headlights w/Corner Signal Lamps I installed them and then got to work on the grill itself. So I cut out the center section of the grill and made a MDF template that I could use to route some 3/16" aluminum to.









I liked the look of the grills that I've seen on a lot of Ford trucks, so I got my inspiration from them.



I did some clean up with fiberglass and bondo inside the cut areas of the grill and then mounted some perforated aluminum in the open space along with the aluminum frame.



I had no turn signal lights in the new bumper so I incorporated them into the grill instead. Next I scuffed up the grill and new insert and painted both of them using the textured bed liner paint Ive have used on everything
and then after letting it dry top coating it with the colors below.

 

LED ARROW INDICATOR MOD

Here's a little modern touch to a not so modern truck. I picked up some LED arrow indicators, and mounted them behind the stock mirrors. Wired it up to the front turn signal wires and just like that, I entered a new era, sort of....

iJDMTOY Pair 14-SMD Arrow Shape

$10 iJDMTOY Pair 14-SMD Arrow Shape LED Circuit Board Panels for Behind The Side Mirror Turn Signal Retrofit, Amber Yellow

LED





The red ink pen cap is just to hold it in place till the silicone drys.

 

UNDER BED BOX MOD

Now, since the spare tire was relocated on the back of the truck, I hated to waste the space on the underside of the bed. So I made a metal box and mounted it as another place to put things.

I started off with some sheet metal. I marked out where the folds would be, and started cutting with my angle grinder with a cutting disc.



Next, I scored the lines where the folds were to make it bend easier. I didn't use a metal brake, just brute strength.





I clamped it all together and started welding.




I also welded some angle iron to the top for mounting points and somewhere to put the hinge

.



Next, I made a template of the box size and mounting holes and started cutting the bed.







Now it was time to mount the box. It fit perfect and still left room under the bed to access suspension parts etc....







I had to give a it a coat of paint and it was finished. Now I can keep my full size jack, jumper cables, etc..... out of the way. The BedRug carpeting just folds back on top of the box and no one is the wiser.

 

Killer build!! Your dad must be a TV repairman!!

 

TRACTION BOARD ADDITION

I got a set of X Bull Traction Boards Gen-3 a few weeks ago, and they turned out to be the perfect size to fit in my extra space on the roof rack. The mounting hardware was OK, but I did a few mods to make it work for me. At $44.90 and free shipping, I couldn't pass it up.

The supplied hardware included four M10 x 165mm (6 1/2") all thread rods that are NOT stainless steel. Some black knobs , washers, and nuts. Also, a black hold down piece. It was close to what I needed, but I replaced the 4 all thread rods with (4) M10 x 180mm (7")

$17 uxcell M10 x 180mm Metric Right Hand Thread Fully Threaded Rod Stud Fastener 5PCS

stainless steel threaded rods, to work with my configuration. I also added some 1"x2" aluminum spacers.











I also picked up some nylon 1" yellow strap to attach to them so I can find them if buried.



The extra space on the roof was a perfect fit for the boards.







I used the aluminum spacers because the knobs cannot be screwed down within the board itself.



A perfect fit, one of the easiest mods I've done.

 

This is fantastic. Thanks for the time it took to upload all of this. Thats a sweet ass rig. It always give you a different feeling when you build it yourself. Great work.

 

You do great work! Very impressed with the craftmanship on the interior and attention to detail.

What kind of wood did you use for your center console? I've been meaning to make one for myself one of these days.

 

I second that. Looks great!

 

Thanks, I used 1/2" birch and 1/4 MDF particle board and a little fiberglass in some places. on the CC.

 

CAMPER SHELL WINDOW MOD

Ever since I installed the rear bumper swing out I have been unable to do any type of stealth camping, such as overnighters to and from trips in say hotel parking lots, city streets, or general parking lots without drawing attention to myself with the swing out wide open for all to see. Once inside the camper shell, I was unable to close the swing out and reopen it again with the standard camper shell window. So I devised a method to be able to open the swing out with-opening the rear window (which wouldn't open anyway). I purchased and slider window for a RV or travel trailer that would fit the opening in the camper window. The window I found was perfect. It had a sliding screen to keep bugs out and then it also open up so I could reach out and open and close the slide out.




First thing I had to do was remove the existing 1/8" glass and replace it with a 1/8" sheet of aluminum cut to the same size. Then I cut the new window shape out of the aluminum.



















After mounting the oval RV window in place I prepped the old window frame for painting. I then coated it with truck bed liner and topped it off with black paint.







After the paint was finished I decided to use the existing fabric in the camper shell and upholster the inside of the window as well.



Reinstalling the window frame back in the shell was easy. Just slid right into the upper track that it came out of. Now I can open and close the swing out, and it doesn't look so obvious that someone is sleeping inside when the time comes. Plus no more mosquitos at night.

 

ON BOARD AIR COMPRESSOR - AIR SYSTEM

After watching numerous videos on YouTube about on-board air compressor systems I decided to set up a system for myself with a few changes. The compressor I used was a Napa twin cylinder 300 LPM unit (formally called the Maxi Trac "Orange" but is no longer available) Now they have replaced it with the "Black" (Part #: BK MTWM10215C) unit which a selling for $155.00 online at Napa. But basically it the same unit other then the circuit board is a bit different. Either way there are a lot of clones of these compressors out there from China where they are all made - "Thumper", "Tozalazz ", "SSW Offroad", "Stop & Go", "Thor's Lightning", "MORRFlate TenSix", to name a few. Some of them are modified a bit and different colors, others not so much.

These compressors are all in need of a few mods to make them safer and more efficient. The main items are the electrical cords and air hose. So I made a few changes, though I can't take credit for these ideas as I got them from a guy on YouTube with a channel called "Dirt Lifstyle". He has basically reworked the majority of his NAPA Maxi trac compressor. His points are valid so I incorporated some of the mods in mine as well.


I also found another slick mod on YouTube by a channel called "Sponsored By Wifey" and he calls it the "Wifey air system". So I used it in addition to the new compressor along with my personal touches.







Concerning the Air compressor I first removed the plastic cover and checked out the main board. Then, I removed it cutting the two Red wires and one Black. The Large Red wire is for the main power, the Small Red is for the Automatic thermal cut-off, and the Black is ground. I also remove the 1/8" cheap rubber airline that was coming out of the manifold and replaced it with a 1/4"braided one. I just re-tapped the manifold to a larger size. (Drill America - POU1/4NPTW/DRILL 1/4" Carbon Steel NPT Pipe Tap and 7/16" High Speed Steel Drill Bit Set)












I drilled a second hole and tapped the manifold next to the existing air port for a pressure switch. (90-115 PSI Air Sealed/Waterproof Pressure Switch)








Next, I added a continuous duty solenoid relay since the main board was removed. If the main board went bad I would be screwed (NO replacement available), but if the relay does, I can pick one up anywhere. I did leave the automatic thermal cut-off in tack as it seemed to be low priority mod. Though it can be deleted with some minor interior jumper mods.



A jumper from the two points shown, will bypass the automatic thermal cut-off. If your compressor fails, this could be the problem. But it requires a complete takedown of the compressor.




I also replaced the cylinder head bolts as the original ones tended to strip out easily and were known to vibrate loose. I used stainless steel M5-0.8 x 60mm Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts.



I wired everything up and added a 100 amp Blue Seas circuit breaker, 4 AWG wire, and a Anderson quick release plug. Also you will notice I have the compressor mounted on a carpeted board to act as a removable unit in the cab if needed. This unit is too large to fit nicely in the engine bay of a Tacoma, unlike the ARB unit, but then again it sells for $650.00.





To finish off the compressor wiring itself I added a switch to my rear overhead console. Then ran the wires under my rear cab floor unit and added a Anderson plug and a small quick release for the switch.











Next was to start the on-board air lines (AKA Wifey system) and compressor manifold. I bought all my parts from Amazon to complete this part. I got a aluminum manifold block, 0-160Psi 2" gauge, Brass Safety Valve-25-200 psi,

$16 Milton S-1751 Safety Exhaust Coupler, 1/4" body, 1/4" MNPT

Milton S-1751 Safety Exhaust Couplers, and few adapter pieces as well. Since I will be removing the compressor from time to time I wanted the couplers for quick removal. Also the vertical coupler can release air in small or large amounts at a time, in addition the coupler accepts other air tools when needed. I use an adjustable pocket blow gun to deflate my tires when plugged into the vertical coupler. (Something needs to be plugged into these couplers for them to release air, once plugged in the red slider part of the coupler needs to be slide toward the item plugged in). The air tubing for the truck itself is 3/8" tubing (black), and the whips are 8mm (blue).









Here the "Viair" Inflation Valves are installed, two in the front wheel wells and two in the rear frame. I used lock-tight on the threads.




















The final item was to make the (4) tire whips. Here I used (8)

$37 Haltec H-5265 Standard Bore Grip Lock On Air Chuck 0-300 psi 1/4" NPT

Haltec H-5265 Standard Bore Lock-On Air Chucks, and (8) uxcell 1/4PT Male Thread to 8mm Pneumatic Push in Quick Joint Fittings, and one box of Quickun Pneumatic Tubing 8mm x 5mm PU Polyurethane Tube Air Hose Line (32.8ft/10Meters) to complete this part .









Here I am inflating all 4 tires to the exact same pressure all at once. I can deflate them this way as well. I do keep the engine running during inflating as the compressor does draw some power, even thought I have two batteries.



Here is the system removed.

 

Parts list:

Compressor mods:

Napa Air Compressor - 300 LPM, 12 V $154.49 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_MTWM10215C

Viair 92804 18" Stainless Steel Braided Leader Hose without Check Valve $23.78 -

$27 Viair 92804 18" Stainless Steel Braided Leader Hose without Check Valve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YC5IG0?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Vixen Horns 90-115 PSI Air Sealed/Waterproof Pressure Switch VXA7115 $18.38 -

$24 Vixen Horns 90-115 PSI Air Sealed/Waterproof Pressure Switch with Wire Leads Tank Mount Type 1/4" NPT 12V/24V for Train/Air Horn VXA7115L

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZY73XTK?ie=UTF8&th=1

Blue Sea Systems 7187 285-Series Circuit Breaker, 100A $43.39 -

$39 Blue Sea Systems 7187 285-Series Circuit Breaker, Surface Mount, 100A

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051P01BW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Zhushan Max 300A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay 12VDC $15.88 -

$16 Zhushan Max 300A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay Nickel-Plating for Golf Carts, Winch, Marine in Rush 12VDC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQP2QRG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Energizer Jumper Cables for Car Battery, Heavy Duty (16-Feet (4-Gauge) $24.97 -

$25 Energizer Jumper Cables for Car Battery, Heavy Duty Automotive Booster Cables for Jump Starting Dead or Weak Batteries with Carrying Bag Included (16-Feet (4-Gauge)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JYF3MS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

TKDMR 4 AWG-5/16" Battery Lugs, $9.40 -

$10 TKDMR Copper Wire Lugs with 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing,UL Heavy Duty Cable Lugs Battery Cable Ends Copper Eyelets Ring Terminal Connectors (10, 4 Awg - 5/16" (M8) Ring)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R6Z38C4?ie=UTF8&th=1

M5-0.8 x 60mm Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts 304 Stainless Steel $8.99 -

$9 M5-0.8 x 60mm Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts, 304 Stainless Steel 18-8, Allen Socket Hex Drive, Full Thread, Coarse Thread, Bright Finish, 15 PCS

https://www.amazon.com/M5-0-8x60mm-Stainless-Machine-Eastlo-Fastener/dp/B07X1RV4GX?th=1

Smseace Mini ANL Fuse Holder with 120A Mini Fuse InstallGear 4 Gauge $9.99 -

$10 smseace 120A Mini ANL Fuse Holder with Mini Fuse 4-Gauge with Matching Hexagonal Wrench for Car Audio Stereo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B41DKBV3?ie=UTF8&th=1

(Anderson) ANDCHIER 2pcs 120A 2 Gauge AWG Wire Connector with Dust Cover Handle,Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Connector Wire Harness Plug Kit $14.39 -

$15 ANDCHIER 2pcs 120A 2 Gauge AWG Wire Connector with Dust Cover Handle,Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Connector Wire Harness Plug Kit for Winch Trailer,Grey

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9XSDP26?ie=UTF8&th=1

JooFn 120A Plug Mounting Panel with Cover for Anderson SB120 Connectors Flush Mount Recessed Plate (1 Pack) $14.98 -

$11 JooFn 120A Plug Mounting Panel with Cover for Anderson SB120 Connectors Flush Mount Recessed Plate (Gray-1pc)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BXX9LDFB?ie=UTF8&th=1

PAEKQ 10AWG Weatherproof Solar SAE Power Socket Sidewall Port SAE Quick Connector Harness Plug and SAE Connector Extension Cable (1FT) $12.99 -https://

$14 PAEKQ 10AWG Weatherproof Solar SAE Power Socket Sidewall Port SAE Quick Connector Harness Plug and SAE Connector Extension Cable for Solar Panel RVs Motorcycle Generator Battery Charger(1FT)

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2P1RP58/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1




On board Air system:

(1 box) TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Air Line 3/8 inch od Black Pneumatic Nylon Tube 32.8ft $20.99 -

$23 TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Air Line DOT 3/8" od Black Pneumatic Nylon Tube 32.8ft Air Brake Tubing Nylon Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P1TDMRQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

(1 box) Quickun Pneumatic Tubing 8mm x 5mm PU Polyurethane Tube A (Blue 32.8ft/10Meters) $13.99 -

$14 Quickun Pneumatic Tubing 8mm x 5mm PU Polyurethane Tube Air Hose Line for Air Compressor Fitting or Fluid Transfer (Blue 32.8ft/10Meters)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZDGF417?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

5 Pack DOT Push In Inflation Valve 3/8" Air Line Schrader Fitting Air Ride Bag- https://www.ebay.com/itm/312888977390

(Second option) Viair, Inflation Valve, Model# 13892 https://www.northerntool.com/products/viair-inflation-valve-model-13892-5188217

(8) Haltec H-5265 Standard Bore Lock-On Air Chuck $15.55 -

$15 Haltec H-5265 Standard Bore Lock-On Air Chuck,Gold

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01938M8MW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

(8) uxcell 20 Pcs 1/4PT Male Thread to 8mm Pneumatic Push in Quick Joint Fittings $20.33 -

uxcell 20 Pcs 1/4PT Male Thread to 8mm Pneumatic Push in Quick Joint Fittings

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S4TYZT6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

(3) TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Black 3/8 inch OD Y Spliter Plastic Push to Connect Fittings 3 Ways (Pack of 10) $9.99 -

$11 TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Black 3/8" OD Y Spliter Plastic Push to Connect Fittings 3 Ways Tube Connect Push Fit Push Lock PY-3/8(Pack of 10)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2BV18D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details



Manifold:

TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Male Straight 3/8 Inch Tube OD x 1/4 Inch NPT Thread Push to Connect Fittings PC-3/8-N2 (Pack of 2)

$7 TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Male Straight 3/8" Tube OD x 1/4" NPT Thread Push to Connect Fittings PC-3/8-N2 (Pack of 2)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08867KZZ9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Kingston KMBVM Series Brass Mini Ball Valve, Lever, 1/4" NPT Male x NPT Female $10.08 -

$9 Kingston KMBVM Series Brass Mini Ball Valve, Lever, 1/4" NPT Male x NPT Female

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006U4E9F2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Carvedexquisitely Outer Hex Head Thread Pipe Plug Fitting 1/4" NPT Male,304 Stainless Steel(pack of 4)

$9 Carvedexquisitely Outer Hex Head Thread Pipe Plug Fitting 1/4" NPT Male,304 Stainless Steel(pack of 4)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09D8ZWMXS?ie=UTF8&th=1

MEANLIN MEASURE 0-160Psi 2" DIAL FACE 1/4" NPT Pressure Gauge $9.99

$10 MEANLIN MEASURE 1/4" NPT 2" Dial Face Well Pump Pressure Gauge, 0-160Psi, Lower Mount

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K37VCWD?ie=UTF8&th=1


Control Devices-NC25-1UK002 Safety Valve, 25-200 psi Adjustable Pressure Range, 1/4" Male NPT $7.79 -

$11 Control Devices-NC25-1UK002 NC Series Brass Non-Code Safety Valve, 25-200 psi Adjustable Pressure Range, 1/4" Male NPT

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDXT3O?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

4 Way Pneumatic Manifold Air Distribution Block, G1/2 Supply Port, G1/4-Inch Output Port, Aluminum Alloy $13.57

$15 4 Way Pneumatic Manifold Air Distribution Block, G1/2 Supply Port, G1/4" Output Port, Aluminum Alloy

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z2D8V87?ie=UTF8&th=1

(2) JUWO Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Bushing, 1/2" NPT Male x 1/4" NPT Female Reducer (1-Pack) $7.99 -

$6 JUWO 1/2" NPT Male × 1/4" NPT Female Reducer, Brass Hex Bushing, Brass Pipe Fitting Adapter for Air, Oil, LP and Natural Gas, 1200 PSI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNT2WNN2?ie=UTF8&th=1

(2) Milton S-1751 Safety Exhaust Coupler, 1/4" body, 1/4" MNPT $14.83 -

$16 Milton S-1751 Safety Exhaust Coupler, 1/4" body, 1/4" MNPT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZ69G64?ie=UTF8

Interstate Pneumatics B100H 1/4 Inch Adjustable Industrial Pocket Blow Gun $7.99 -

$6 Interstate Pneumatics B100H 1/4" Adjustable Industrial Pocket Blow Gun

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043EUPFE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details