Any advantage over another 275/70/17 - 285/70/17?

Any advantage over another 275/70/17 - 285/70/17? Is there that much of a difference? Building out my 2020 Taco LB - Wheels Scs Rays -10 offset, Eibach Stage 2 lift. Not sure if I'll need UCA? Cab chop? going with either of these tire sizes. The 285's are $50 cheaper as well. Thanks all all your input and knowledge.

 

Going by the tire size calculator (click here to find it), these are the differences:

 

I run 275\70-17 wildpaeks with 17x9 -12 on fuel rebel 6 these no cab mount chop needed
My buddy had 285s and was always whining about rubbing on his cab mounts and he had then cut
But maybe they did not chop them right.

 

Most if not all 17” -275’s are LT’s which are heavy tires. 285’s are available in both LT and P ratings with the P285’s being substantially lighter than a LT275. Plus way more tire choices in 285 size. Unless you are “heavy” off-roading your truck, no need for a heavy LT tire. The bigger heavier tires will negatively affect your truck’s performance and mpg to some degree. The heavier LT275’s “may or may not” clear your cab mount with your wheel choice. 285’s are “most likely” going to rub the cab mount…although there are some who say they don’t rub. Those who say they don’t rub may rub as suspension cycles upward with wheels turned.

Your suspension choices look fine. CMC (cab mount chop) will depend on your choice of tire/wheel but either size you have listed could require a CMC….especially if you’re going to off-road and fully cycle your suspension. When you lift your tacoma’s front suspension, you’ll lose “caster”. Most aftermarket UCA’s add “caster”. Your factory UCA’s a lot of times won’t allow for enough caster after lifting depending on how much you lift.
The double edged sword in UCA’s is that “nonajustable” UCA’s which add caster will slightly move your wheel/ tire backwards in the wheel well, closer to the cab mount. Yeah they add needed caster but may also cause you to need a CMC.
Some choose adjustable UCA’s (SPC light racing)which you can adjust the caster (and camber) which a lot of times can give enough room to clear the cab mount. You basically max out the caster with your lower control arms then fine tune the caster/camber with your adjustable UCA’s. This will position your wheel/tire so that you may clear the cab mount. If you are doing mostly street and light off-road (not fully cycling your suspension) this could be a good combo to clear your factory “non cut” cab mount with 285’s.

All that said, if you don’t mind doing a CMC, just go with some added caster UCA’s. This should give you plenty of room. If you absolutely don’t want to CMC and want 285’s then go with adjustable UCA’s and stay with as close to “zero” offset wheels as possible. Your -10 wheels would be the most negative offset you’d want to go if trying to keep from CMC. Finding someone knowledgeable with adjustable UCA’s is also important as in reading as much as you can about how they actually work and their capabilities. Whomever aligns your front end after your lift and new UCA’s needs experience with lifted Toyota IFS (independent front suspension).

Tons more info on this site about this…
Best wishes!

 

Thanks for the detailed information !