How to check the level and condition of my 2013 Takoma TDR?

I'm not pretty sure what you mean. Please see the photos. I made road test in both positions. Same vibrations on 35mph and then on 45(or so). Even on 60 when I press the gas pedal there is some noise. If I let the pedal go the car is rolling smoothly without any noise or vibrations. It looks like when there is any tension between the engine and trany the vibrations come. In low sped the tension of course is biger.
There is no vibration when the car is in Park and I press the Gas pedal even to 3000rpm...

 

I'm not pretty sure what you mean. Please see the photos. I made road test in both positions. Same vibrations on 35mph and then on 45(or so). Even on 60 when I press the gas pedal there is some noise. If I let the pedal go the car is rolling smoothly without any noise or vibrations. It looks like when there is any tension between the engine and trany the vibrations come. In low sped the tension of course is biger.
There is no vibration when the car is in Park and I press the Gas pedal even to 3000rpm...

 

If the vibration was still there with the switch In H2 and gear shifter in 4th.
The problem isn’t likely the torque converter.

The combination below, is what I was talking about

 

Thanks! I'll do another test tomorrow because I'm not sure that I did pay attention to this specific combination. I'm sure I did: 1. Switch on H4 and gear stick on Normal drive 2. Switch on H4 and stick on 4D. The vibrations are the same as the Switch on H2 + normal drive.

 

Thanks! I'll do another test tomorrow because I'm not sure that I did pay attention to this specific combination. I'm sure I did: 1. Switch on H4 and gear stick on Normal drive 2. Switch on H4 and stick on 4D. The vibrations are the same as the Switch on H2 + normal drive.[/QUOTE]

 

Leave the switch in H2.

 

Im telling you its driveline related. Carrier bearing or maybe a u-joint like the other guy said

 

Ok. But why the car is running smoothly when no gas pedal is pressed? Let's say I'm driving with 50 and release the gas pedal. No vibration. When I press the pedal(at the same speed) the vibration is back. Not so hard as at 35 or 40-45 but I can feel it...

 

I did a road test today with your recommendation. Absolutely the same vibration at 35 and then at 40-45.
I'm wondering if this is u-joint...
Any idea? Can I check it my self just to be sure??

 

Yeah. Crawl under, grab the driveshaft close to the u-joint and see if there is excessive play.

As for the carrier bearing, push up and down on the driveshaft where it goes into the carrier. See if the rubber isolator is worn.

 

Thats the way it works, in my experience at least. The vibrations become more pronounced as the load on the driveline increases

 

Ok, I did your recommendation. Couldn't see any movement of the u-joints - the y do NOT move at all.
The carrier bearing is looking loose. I don't know how free it should move up and down, but I believe it needs to be much tighter. Also, I think I saw some deformation on the bottom side(maybe a hole, it's hard to say). One question: Is the drive shaft originally have a rubber coat over the part that go into the bearing FROM the rear wheels? This one has a coat of smuts - very hard to clean it after touching, like old moldered rubber...

 

I don’t recall mine having a rubber coating. I’ll have to check when I get a chance. But I don’t think it does.

 

I agree! You were right about the carrier bearing. I just couldn't understand correctly which part you were talking about. I knew all these parts as CARDAN System. I had the same problem with my old BMW 1600, back in 1993... A long time ago. After I read online some basic information about Carrier Bearing I'm 100% agree with you that(MAYBE!) this is the problem...

 

The only rubber 'coating' I can think of would be the boot covering the slip joint. Thats behind the carrier bearing. The carrier bearing itself has rubber in it, thats what allows the movement and what wears out over time

 

Electronically Controlled Transmission?

 

That's right, the rubber sleeve is just behind the bearing. What I got is the part that just goes into the carrier bearing is covered with rubber flakes of soot. I already spoke with the Dependable Driveshaft Garage and will give them the car Thursday. The guy said they will do the shaft balance with the new rubber bearing. If this is truth, that will be very nice service.

 

Ok! The truck is fixed. They replaced the carrier bearing and all three u-joints. They said the bearing was REALLY bad. Also, they did something very important - Two pieces of Drive Shaft Ballance. So far my Tacoma running perfectly. Now I can see how badly the truck was suffering with this broken bearing. With the new carrier bearing and balanced shaft, the truck accelerates smoothly and powerfully.
Pleasure!
TnShooter, Sr-71A, Thanks a lot for the help and information!!

 

Good to hear
Thanks for the update