Extended Wheel Studs Installed - Which Brands Work

To avoid cutting ARP stud would it be easier to go with

$40 ARP 100-7718 Wheel Stud Kit for Toyota

ARP 100-7718 which is 59mm long instead of

$43 ARP 100-7715 ARP 1007715 Wheel Stud Kit for Lexus

ARP 100-7715 which is 66mm long?

 

Bumping an old thread here as I'm doing some research for 17x9 -38 Falcon T8 Seeker wheels.

Per ARP's website description 100-7718 requires a slightly larger hole diameter in the axle hub. I'm not sure if that would require drilling or if they'd still fit the Tacoma without modification. The other specs are slightly different too.



Depending on the wheel you choose you may not have to cut the length of the studs. In my case, the Muteki SR45R lug nuts will work with longer studs as they're open ended.

https://www.showstoppersoffroad.com/product/muteki-sr45r-12x1-5-black-24-pc-w-locks/

 

I believe the ARP Celica ones won't work unless you re-drill the hubs for a slightly larger opening which I didn't want to do.

 

so what was wrong with just running extended thread lug nuts? there are many available to meet pretty much any need

 

ET lug nuts aren't compatible with all wheels (like Falcon T8 Seekers).

I'm planning on going with these extended wheel studs and the Muteki SR45R lug nuts linked above.
I'll see how they do. OP seemed to have a bad experience with them, but judging by the picture below I think they're fine.

https://www.wheeladapter.com/product/extended-wheel-studs-for-toyotas

Edit: I would go with the Lexus ARP versions, but the price is significantly higher. Either way I shouldn't have to cut or modify them with the open ended Muteki lug nuts for my application.

 

but what makes those wheels not compatible?

edit: i guess the lug nut holes aren't drilled large enough for the extended part of lug to go inside? if this is all id honestly just drill them out

 

See that bottom portion - wheels will need to have larger wheel stud openings than typical aftermarket wheels (I'll be d@mned if I bore out holes in my Rays wheels). Only a select few wheel manufacturers offer that.

 

For whatever reason, those would not go through my rear hubs (the smooth part before its reaches the splines).

 

i suppose. the matrix wheel stud mod has been around since the 1st gen days as they are even shorter on the front than the 3rd gen. i put them on mine probably 10 years ago and theyve never been an issue. believe they were the same dorman ones. its scary to think about the amount of guys that are driving around with literally only 2-3 threads of engagement on their lugs. even scarier is the fact they installed them and thought that was acceptable.

 

Bringing this thread back up because I am looking at the same thing. Most likely going to try the

$40 ARP 100-7718 Wheel Stud Kit for Toyota

ARP 100-7718 because I do not want to have to cut them down. Looking at the specs, there is a pretty good overlap between these and the 7715's for stub hole size which leads me to believe they will work just fine.

I'll keep y'all posted if I do.

 

Hey there, any luck with the 7718? I'm due for new tires and I figured I would address this issue with my Venomrex aftermarket wheels.

 

Any update on this? I’m in the same boat with my TE’s, will not run them without longer studs.

 

Best bet is the Dorman Matrix studs up front. ARP IS300 studs for the rear which will need to be cut down. You could mock up the new wheels on the rear, and turn the new lugs on the existing studs and count how many turns you get. Figure out how many threads you want engaged on your new studs and figure how many threads are per inch and calculate the additional length needed. Take the OEM studs out of the rear, measure what the stock studs are and use that as a baseline. Take the ARP studs to a machine shop and they could cut them down and file down the edges and you'd be ready for your TE wheels (Tell them you want an extra 1/4" of whatever dimension it is of threads). Still rocking my Dorman Matrix front studs and custom cut ARP IS300 studs in the rear and knock on wood everything is doing well.

 

Question for those who went to Doorman route, does the extended shank still allow you to use stock wheels or once you go this route you're going to be stuck with aftermarket wheels or need a spacer to make stock wheels work?

 

You will need to use open end lugs if you can find them for OEM style. The factory lug nuts are not deep enough to cover the extended thread length.

 

Ordered a set of open ended lug nuts along with the studs that do not have the thread-less shank of off evilBay, just like the ARP studs but a full set for price of ARP five pack.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175642430759

 

Ordered these at 10:30am on Saturday and I got the studs in the mail today, I'm in NJ and these got shipped from CA, while they do not say ARP on the head, I'd not be surprised if these are made in the same factory that makes the ARP studs.

Ordered 2 sets which is 24, got 25 so I have one spare should there be an issue while installing but these do look rather good and if the rating on the head is correct they should work just fine, considering these are 1/4 price of the ARPs I'd call that a win.

Thanks to @Chuy for the pointer!

 

I need to do the same thing, but on a 1st gen (2003). Would these be the same ones I need as well?

 

Never had a 1st gen so cant speak from experience but the websites listing these studs specify these fit across years 1995-2023, try posting in the 1st gen forum I bet someone has done it before and can confirm.

 

I ended up ordering Kyo-Ei studs from Japan. Easy install and no need to cut them down.