MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

That's a good description of that. Didn't really know how to describe it, because its not like its going to stall out gassing from a stop but it often times feels off like its struggling. A tune will take care of that?

 

This is what I have ready to go in the truck, just need to crawl under and do it.

$25 Pentosin 1224116 DOT 4 LV Low Viscosity Brake Fluid for Cold Climate Conditions; 1 Liter

https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1224116-Brake-Fluid-Liter/dp/B00610SK2S

The viscosity at normal temps isn't far off regular brake fluid but when its cold its a lot thinner. I looked at as many MSDSs as I could and this was the lowest viscosity fluid I could find.

If you have clutch issues normally I would suggest the fluid regardless. It is specifically designed to not thicken up as much in low temps, that was done for ABS but applies here too. Its not really any different hot, just doesn't get thick as fast as the temp goes down.

 

Man I hope so! Its next on my list

 

ill have to look into that thanks!

 

It is ridiculous. I think the truck tuning group just missed the boat competely until the 3rd Gen Tundra launch. It seems that they might have gotten it mostly right there? It is crazy how well the 4.0l respond to a tune also.

Just being able to get rolling without raising the revs is so nice.

 

Not sure what tune you guys have but I got the ott tune a few weeks before I did the ADM and haven't been terribly impressed. But i think the two mods together have improved it a LOT more than I realized. I hauled off 4 pine trees today and I was able to easily start off at low rpms even with over the payload capacity in the bed. I could easily accelerate up hills(nothing crazy) in 5th gear at 2k rpm. It's very smooth at low rpm.

 

Any tune, including the unedited vF 2.0 Tunes, will unlock the low end torque. It is simply a failure of the Stock calibration.

 

For sure. I've heard a lot of people prefer the ott over other tunes. But this is my first tacoma and only tune I've tried.

 

Does your clutch not warm up as you drive?

Keep in mind if you're in a sport, your brake and clutch reservoir is shared....

For sure. Still running the VF2.0 all these years later.... Need to upgrade.....

 

I have over 60k tuned miles with many variations.

 

I don't think clutch fluid really warms up. There is little to no connection to anything making heat. Yes, it's on a bracket on the transmission, but it's not like brake fluid or most other fluids.


True regarding the sport. Still, if you don't mind the extra work there is no reason not to use it in the brakes too, heck the abs may even work better in the winter (that is what it is designed for)

 

Well this was the impitus needed to change the fluid. Hopefully tomorrow I can tell you more

 

"Chanting"
DO IT, DO IT, DO IT, DO IT
In for the results.

 

Word for word, what I would describe my new manual feels like. "draggy", like the fluid is molasses, and the hard lines are the size of macaroni. What's the difference between all these tunes? Are they all fundamentally the same with just a small tweak to deliver on some end or another? Or is there a different tune for everybody, just play around until it "feels right?"

 

I have the KDMax tune and it really woke the engine up and made the truck fun to drive. I bought one of your discs, just havent had time to put it in but looking forward to seeing how it changes the feel of the clutch.

Couldn't agree more

 

It warms up. Just having the reservoir in the warm engine would be enough, but the lines also run in proximity to the exhaust and the engine warms the transmission. I don't really notice it being "cold" untill around 0 F. At highway speeds with temps below -30 F it just stays cold, but will warm up at slower speeds. A winter front would help fix that. Of course, it might not be the clutch fluid, but the clutch itself that is the culprit. The pedal is a little stiff being depressed, but it is the let out that sticks. I think it is because I can put a lot of force into the pedal, but return force is the same regardless as the clutch reengages.

 

Looking forward to your results. Looks like the brass plate is the direction I want to go for the same reasons as you.
We're hitting the negatives here in Montana. I have a 2020 Manual OR and the pedals feel like molasses. Not really someting that bothers me. Just the way cold weather is. But I don't want to jump on this upgrade if it won't do me good until the spring.
If the brass plate is effective in cold weather with the new clutch fluid, then I'll be next in line.

 

Drove it today and I want to say it's better. It was a balmy 46 degrees today so I am hesitant to say it's going to be effective at very low temps.

The LV fluid I linked is <700(cst?) at -40c, regular Dot 3 is <1500 at -40. In comparison both are about 1 (one) at 100c, or around 12 at people temps

 

I still don't get it, now I have only been driving a manual trans for 60 years including British stuff with fluid release I see nothing wrong with my 2011 Tacoma clutch system what do I gain?

 

Well in any case I'm still on the fence between direct bypass and the brass plate. $55 isn't much of an investment to be a guinea pig for everyone here on TW (concerning low temps anyway). Can always do the bypass once the warranty expires if needed.