3rd Gen Owners with King Coilovers

It could need adjustments to the rebound valving. Still best to talk with our team about your specific setup, otherwise you may get a ton of opinions and suggestions that can lead you down a rabbit hole.

 

I’ve never driven a pickup that doesn’t behave something like you describe including my current one with King 2.5s. Let me know if you find a solution short of switching to a 3-link or IRS.

TBQH, even a dirt bike will buck under certain conditions, e.g. riding over a log with imperfect technique.

 

Got to the front earlier than expected! Took her out this past weekend, super happy with the suspension

 

Posting this here as a reminder to check your lower spherical bearings and replace the factory bolts to a bolt with no taper.

https://youtu.be/8NNCR5E10-8

 

thet is how the newer shocks resi mounts up. King changed this recently. As for the clunk, my bet is something is loose.

 

x2 on new hose/reservoir mounting. Clunk could be a lot of things, front/rear etc. Have you reached out to the shop? I would to see if they can check it over and look for anything loose.

 

Thanks! It was just a bolt that came loose on the rear shock. They retorqued and hit it with some locktight and boom it worked. While I have your expertise - what are my best options to further lift with the KST-25001-121 shocks? I found this thread late and had I known earlier would have gotten the ext versions to go taller as I have the EXT’s for the front. Currently have the Icon 3 leaf AAL installed. Usually keep it light weight in the back with Billi Bars and a 90lbs front runner tent at the most. And maybe a Plano case and a cooler of two. Usually the tent is stored 6 months out of the year. Is it possible to go taller with the normal shocks or do I have to swap them out entirely if I want 2 or 3 inches of lift in the back? Just want an extra inch or so of lift in the back. Would a 1 inch lift block work ok or would it ruin everything?

 

Loctite?! Not needed, if it came loose it wasn't torqued properly.

Long story short, King made some changes to their rear shocks. The ones you have share the same lengths as the -EXT models did. The -121-EXT model shock is discontinued (hopefully that makes sense). The only other option would be to get a converted Tundra shock that we sell for about an inch more travel (in stock). The need for longer shocks would really depend on where they sit now with your current weight/leaf pack.

 

I didn't mention lift height. For 2-3" rear lift, we would typically recommend the Tundra converted shocks. We've had great success with Deaver leaf packs.

 

To determine the limit of your lifting potential, you need to measure how much down travel you have currently. The best way to do this is to measure the shock length at ride height and full droop, but you can get a decent approximation by measuring the distance from the center of your hub to your fender flare both at ride height and at full droop.

For comparison sake, I have king extended travel shocks and OME Dakar leafs. My hub to fender measurements in the left rear are:

ride height: 23.5”
full droop: 28.5”

 

For lift height potential, it's important to know what your up and down travel is from ride height. Up travel would be measured at the shock shaft and in btw bump stop and frame. Hub to fender measurements are not very accurate for measuring suspension travel. In general for the rear application having a 50/50 split in shock travel is acceptable.

 

Inaccurate in what way do you mean? Do you mean they lack consistency (i.e. percision)? Hub-to-fender measurements can be consistent within +-0.25" if done carefully in my experience. Comparing hub-to-fender at ride height and full droop seems adequate for determining how much down travel the suspension has. Differences in fender position amongst different trucks doesn't matter. The main source of error is the inconsistent determination of the center of the hub between the two measurements. If you marked both ends of the measurement with tape, you might be able to get to +-0.125" or better. Another advantage of hub-to-fender is that on a IFS you don't need to worry about the motion ratio.

 

For down travel sure, but then measuring up travel you would need to reference the shock and bump stop (unless you remove most of the leafs and cycle suspension). So with that, it would make sense to take all measurements from the same location. At the end of the day, shock travel is the main thing we are addressing, not lift height.

For reference those rear shocks should have about 8.75" of total travel.

 

I just bought my Tacoma and it had king shocks on the back. I was rear ended and damaged one. Having a hard time figuring out what ones they are and locating any. The rear end also has OME leaf springs. Part number EL095R

 

If you email us some better photos of the damage, we can get an idea on if its repairable. Unfortunately that rear shock design/style (standard Tacoma rear shock) has been discontinued and only sold in pairs, so your best bet at the moment would be to see if it can be repaired. Unless you are wanting to buy two new rear shocks. Sales@accutuneoffroad.com

 

I was planning on getting a new set. Are the newer ones in stock? Most seem to be sold out from what I’m looking at.

 

All of our Tacoma rear Kings are in stock. Send over a message with some more details on your truck and lift height and we can help ya out.

 

I love when beautiful connections are made.

 

I can vouch for the Tundra rears from AccuTune!

 

This ^