FJ Clutch Pedal Swap

Sinister184 · Dec 23, 2022

Seems like a few third gen'ers have done this based on posts in random threads, but I can't find a write-up or thread with pics specific to swapping the plastic clutch pedal assembly to the metal FJ pedal. If anyone can help point me in the right direction or chime in with what they did I would appreciate it. I've seen a list of parts floating around, but I really only need all that's necessary to swap the plastic assembly.

I dont really care about the fact that the pedal is plastic, but it's so damn bulky that my foot can barely get comfortable on the dead pedal. The FJ pedal (being metal) looks noticeably thinner and would likely free up a few inches of foot room.

tonered · Dec 23, 2022

Sinister184[OP] initial post: ↑

Seems like a few third gen'ers have done this based on posts in random threads, but I can't find a write-up or thread with pics specific to swapping the plastic clutch pedal assembly to the metal FJ pedal. If anyone can help point me in the right direction or chime in with what they did I would appreciate it. I've seen a list of parts floating around, but I really only need all that's necessary to swap the plastic assembly.

I dont really care about the fact that the pedal is plastic, but it's so damn bulky that my foot can barely get comfortable on the dead pedal. The FJ pedal (being metal) looks noticeably thinner and would likely free up a few inches of foot room.
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Here you go, but I'm not sure that it creates any space. @ShirtTucker or @su.b.rat might be able to tell you.

ShirtTucker said: ↑

All right you freaks, geeks, @tonered , @Shellshock, and @Grossomotto , I finally tackled the metal clutch pedal install. Yes it's as much of a pain in the a$$ as it looks like it might be. It'll help to be less than half a century old, and have your Webster's Dictionary of Vulgarity handy.

1. Note: Your truck may have a different layout for the clutch reservoir. Toyota uses two different braking/clutch systems. In my case, the clutch shares the system with the brakes. Shove a bunch of rags into the area below the lines going to the clutch master cylinder; you do not want brake fluid all over your paint. Remove the lines going to the clutch master cylinder. Clamp off the rubber hose as close to the firewall as possible, unless you feel like bleeding your brakes. After you remove the rubber hose and steel line, have a helper slowly depress the clutch pedal while you hold a small container, or more rags, under the two ports in the firewall. This will remove most of the fluid in the master cylinder, so it doesn't end up inside your truck.

2. Now the fun starts. Contort yourself under the driver's side foot well, so you can look at the left side of the clutch pedal assembly. You'll see an electrical connector about midway up. This one is fairly easy to remove.

Now look at the very top of the clutch pedal assembly. There's another electrical connector up there. There is just enough play in the wiring to allow you to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the firewall, and THEN unplug the connector. I recommend waiting until that point, just don't forget to disconnect it.

3. It's time to remove some nuts and bolt. You WILL need a universal socket joint and long extension. I used a 10" extension. You will also need a small 1/4" ratchet and 1/4" 12mm socket.

On the left side of the clutch pedal assembly, you will see a 10mm bolt with a Phillips head. To the right of that bolt is a 12mm nut that is barely visible. Use your extension, universal joint, and sockets to remove them. Good luck.

4. Were you lucky enough to be able to remove the nut and bolt in step three? Well, you're about to get bitch slapped by karma. Position yourself on your back and look up to the top of the clutch pedal assembly, around the area of the top electrical connector I mentioned earlier. You have to remove a 12mm bolt by feel, using your 1/4 socket wrench and socket. The bolt head points to the rear of the truck.

5. You still here? Good for you! Put an old towel on the driver's side floor to catch any brake fluid as you remove the assembly. Remove the last, easily accessible, nut, and maneuver the assembly out of the vehicle. Don't forget to undo that upper electrical connection!!!

6. Now it's just a matter of disassembling the old parts and assembling the new. Installation is the reverse order of removal, but you'll need some way to keep the left side nut and bolt in the socket as you feed them in with the extension. I used some painter's tape.

7. Bleed your clutch. Use an assistant. The clutch pedal will not return on its own until almost all of the air is out of the system, so don't freak out if your assistant has to pull the pedal up after depressing it each time. You won't succeed by using the gravity bleed method in this case.

Was it worth all of the effort? I suppose so. My clutch had *just* started making the creaking noise, so something needed to be done anyway. The engagement point is now midway though the pedal travel, instead of at the very top, which is nice, and it's dead silent at the moment. I really wanted to replace the stock spring with a linear spring, but the 3rd gens are missing an attachment point for the spring It could probably be duplicated by hose clamping something in that area, but I didn't want to spend any more time with my body in that crazy position.
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Sinister184 · Dec 23, 2022

@tonered Thanks!

tonered · Dec 23, 2022

Sinister184[OP] said: ↑

@tonered Thanks!
Click to expand...

You're welcome!

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FJ Clutch Pedal Swap

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