Battery dying, pulling ~260mA at rest

So for the last few months my battery would die if the truck sat for more than a few days without starting up and running. I finally pulled out my multimeter and found out why: the electronics are drawing around 260mA!! I started pulling fuses and the draw went from 260mA to 55mA once I pulled the ECU-B fuse, which is described as:

Wireless remote control system, air conditioning system, multiplex communication system, meter and gauge, front passenger occupant classification system, garage door opener​

If I pulled the short pin it dropped down to 35mA.

Someone t-boned me on the freeway (!) back in September, and I haven't had a chance to get it fixed yet (been needing the truck while we're doing home repairs). Since the accident the drivers side doors (front and rear both) don't shut all the way, and therefore the Door Ajar dash light is on all the time. Does that single bulb draw 200mA?

Even still, 55mA seems high when at rest...consensus on the forums seems to be that it should be pulling around 25mA. But even pulling the short fuse, which is supposed to be the breaker for pretty much all of the electronics, I'm still pulling 35mA. Is something else going on?

Until I get the doors fixed, is there a way to close the door ajar sensor so at least that light goes off? I really don't want to pull the dash apart just to remove that one lamp...

 

Yup, just disconnect the plunger on the door switch on the b pillar, you just need lift up the rubber, unbolt the torx bit, disconnect the sensor, reattach the sensor.

 

Ahhh good idea. I'm not sure if I can wrench open the rear door wide enough to get to the sensor for that one, but I'll give it a try!

 

Another thing you can do is make a little spacer. I’ve used a wad of electrical tape, add some cut up rag if the gap is large. Start too small and work your way up. After it sits squashed in place for awhile you might need to make it bigger.