Anti-seize or no anti-seize

I just wanted to get opinions of using anti-seize on spark plugs and how to modify the torque specifications if it is used. Some people highly suggest it and some say no way.

 

I use it very sparingly on my lawn equipment and small engines but not on any modern cars or trucks.

 

IIRC Directions state not to use AS... I believe there is a similar product already installed on them... changed mine at ~70k and they came right out. Suggest stick with OEM and rest easy.

 

No

 

I used it on the last two motors I did plug swaps on LS1 and 5.3L, but I don't torque spark plugs. Hand tight and then a little more. Don't over think it.

 

NGK and Denso says it’s not needed.
I have always used it. and did when I changed mine. But I probably won’t any longer on ones that don’t need it.

 

I used a little too much anti-seize years ago on spark plugs on one of my cars. In about a week the anti-seize migrated to the gap on one of my plugs and shorted it. Car ran like crap. I never used that stuff again.

 

Just a tiny dab, especially if the threads have any corrosion on them coming out.

 

it is a petroleum-base lubricant and anticorrosion that is good for up to 2200°F. The oil boils off, but compound leaves nongalling oxides of nickel, copper, and zinc between the threads. So if used, needs a very thin layer. With metal plugs and aluminum heads, there is a chance of galvanic corrosion. It's not a bad idea to use.

 

I changed my plugs at 50K miles. Denso is what it had from the factory, so that's what I put back in. Did not use any anti-seize. Plugs came out and went back in very easy. Change your plugs when the engine is stone cold. On a V6, passenger side is easy. Driver side is pain to reach.

 

Here is a video you may find helpful.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fNyED...rogvDuD0gdpsU3m5V4bXIypHFvAw&feature=emb_logo

 

I tend to follow the FSM.

 

Read the plug mfg directions. For me, I use a small SMALL dab on the threads and spread it w a Qtip.

 

I use anti-seize. For new plugs, I run the plug down, then give it 1/2 turn with the ratchet handle to crush the washer. This method is indifferent to thread lubricants. If I'm installing used plugs (for troubleshooting, etc.), I go by feel.

 

Only need Anti Seize on black oxide plugs.

Do not use on trivalent plated plugs, that is what this plating is for. It is sacrificial.

This trivalent plating is found on NGK/DENSO and many other chrome looking finished plugs.

 

No. It’s not 1975 anymore.

 

No, the plugs have an anti-seize coating on them already.

It also affects the heat transfer to the head, which in turns causes the plug to operate at a different temperature than intended.

 

Seems like people put very little, otherwise it fouls the plugs. So why put it at all?

most of us change the plugs and have no issues taking them out. So why put the grease in the first place?

To me, it just seems like a quick buck that manufacturers or stores make by selling that stuff.

install your plugs correctly, and you will have no issues taking them out in 30k-60k

 

There is many ideas that are good and bad for why or why not to use it. I just don't think I've seen any studies that show this to be true. To make sure we are on the same page, heat range has nothing to do with the heat, or amount, of spark. It has to do with cylinder heat dissipation. The oils burn off and what is left is nickel, copper, and zinc. All of those metals are very good a heat transfer. That is why they are found in some thermal paste. If anything, it would actually make the spark plug do it's heat dissipation more efficiently, but it would be so eligible I don't think it would be readable on a thermometer.

 

Yes.