Anti-seize or no anti-seize

Tacomaworld consensus be damned.

https://www.denso.com/global/en/pro...vice-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/torque/

 

So the counter to that is, the threads have to be in perfect condition for dry torque.

Many plugs I pull have rust from moisture, or blowby. So the dab of anti seize allows for better turning motion. No manual addresses corrosion, they all assume perfect and new.

Thread chasing then installing new clean plugs is more ideal, but a little overkill, and the anti seize can help resist future corrosion.

When I skip the anti seize on a slight corroded thread you can actually feel it torque too soon.

 

I suppose if you want to "counter" Denso actual instructions, have fun.

 

It’s a discussion. Maybe try it sometime.

 

Of course not but to be frank, never heard of this issue despite all of the 5.4s I had and been around. Probably one of the best trucks I and others have owned.

Millions sold, minority issues, sadly statistics are not in your favor.

 

"If you apply grease or another screw thread lubricant to the threaded part of the plug, you are liable to tighten the plug to an excessive degree, impairing the integrity of the seal, even if you apply no more than the recommended torque. For this reason, do not coat the plug with screw thread lubricant."

Discuss what? LOL

 

So where does it discuss corrosion? Or old plugs seized in the head?

If you live life by the book that’s fine. But maybe work on your communication skills.

 

Pulled this from one of my bikes this weekend. No anti seize was used when I placed it years ago and despite corrosion on it, it came right out. Affirms no need to add any.

 

If you DO use anti-seize and it gets on your clothes, there is only one thing that will remove it...a pair of scissors.

 

At a shop I worked at, we would put a light coat on the phone ear piece. Then whenever someone answered it, it would "Chrome their ear" lol. Plus they would never feel it, so they walked around like that for hours.

 

That's very mild corrosion, this pic is typical on Toyotas where I am. I stole this pic. I'm in a winter dry prairie region.



This indicates moisture, exhaust gas leak and corrosion, see how the threads are rusty top to bottom.

That corrosion is still in the cylinder head threads.

You can chase them but its far from ideal, or you can simply dab a little antiseize in and it will add a tiny coat of lubricant.

It's 100% not required, but its just a suggestion.

Manufacturers expect everything to be factory clean and clearances perfect.

 

Takes four hours because the threads are fked and has to get a helicoil.

You have a point, i mean, the antisieze has instructions, it doesn't say to glop it on, it says use a little bit.

 

I changed plugs on an 18 year old Hyundai a few months ago, they were the original plugs and this was the best of the 6.

 

I’ve never lubricated spark plugs, but can see why some would choose to if they looked as bad as the ones in your photo.
If I did use it, I would use something like Neolube #2 (Neolube #1 is mil spec and pricey). It is micro-graphite in an alcohol base and brushes on very thin. We used it in our nuclear plants, excellent stuff to prevent thread gauling and doesn’t just gob on like most anti-seize compounds.

$37 APOWUS 2 oz Aluminum & Graphite Lubricant - Industrial Lubricants - Machine Maintenance, Equipment Lubrication

https://www.amazon.com/Prestige-Industries-Neolube-fl-oz/dp/B07G2SK8VN

 

Possibly the answer is to change dry plugs within an appropriate timeframe before corrosion occurs?

 

The corrosion occurs during engine operation over the years.

It's one of the drawbacks to long life plugs and 10 years of operation.

 

Yep, we used it religiously on the sub. I know it well and have a jar in my paint locker too.

 

That’s what I was thinking. So, during a vehicle’s 20 year period you could change the plugs twice while using a substance that isn’t recommended or change them early, 4 times during that period, and install as recommended. I’d sign up for the no substance route and suck up the $200 dollars over that 20 year period.

 

Everyone puckers with a 5.4 rolls in, until

Not seeing any corrosion. I see plugs with typical combustion product deposits; one with a leaking gasket (loose?) allowing combustion leakage into the plug well. Clean those with solvent and a brass wire brush next time, you will most likely find the factory plating intact.

Edit: The darkness of the insulator, that's corona staining, which is normal.

 

So that is corrosion, though above the gasket only. Normal for a motorcycle plug as they are often exposed to water being kicked up right into the engine from the front tire.