Crush washers need to be re-torqued

OMG NO! DO YOU HAVE A DEATHWISH?

 

This has already been figured out after 6 pages, I’m assuming, but those Amazon washers are garbage. Read through the reviews a bit and you will read some bad stories. I bought my crush washers from Rockauto. Not EOM but seem to be similar enough. No issues thus far.

 

So what should I be torquing my oil filter to?

 

No shit! I weld mine on, then use a grinder to get the plug off to change my oil. Btw, I change my oil once a week, every 350 miles.

 

for those that are torqueing the drain plug... being that the drain plug/hole is wet are you recalibrating the 30lb torque value?

 

Interesting, would that make it not stay tight or lose its torque?

 

Torqueing to 30ft lbs per the manual; per Toyota's recommendation. I'm sure they took into account the presence of oil during this sequence.

 

I know this is overlill but coming from drag racing bikes i always safety wired things.
On el diablo taco i safety wire the drain plug and filter cover
Nuts i kno

 

I'm putting this link here to genuine Toyota OEM oil pan crush washers so that it gets included in the "Products Discuss in" box at bottom of page. Which currently only has links to the questionable knock-off "UTSAUTO" crush washers.

At $10 for 10 washers, seems like a no-brainer to go original.

$11 Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10)

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Drain-Gaskets-90430-12031/dp/B007OW6MD6/

Toyota PN# 90430-12031

 

A vital sealing gasket for the most important fluid in the vehicle, sold under a fake brand name, from a third party seller on Scamazon?

Engines are so expensive, man. The OEM crush washer does not behave like this. I swear it gets tighter when I go to remove it. I use a small torque wrench at 25ft-lb.

good thing you caught it before you lost the oil!

 

Not trying to hijack dudes thread but I am using what a Toyota dealer is giving me and it does act like this. To sum up, I didn’t torque them at first, then they gave me an aluminum ones that worked, then back to the fiber one and same issue but started torquing and it did not hold torque. (70k @ 5k oci)

I don’t really care, I was just adding to this thread for information purposes. Retorquing works for me so that’s what I do.

barber, you may proceed…..

 

My dealer sells them for a whopping .88 each. I plan on buying those and doing the TRD Pro oil filters for my oil change intervals which will be every 5k or less. Invest this much money in a vehicle just seems silly not to use OEM maintenance products.

 

The two Toyota dealers I have near me would charge $3.00 for a drain plug crush washer. I chit you not.

 

i would like to amend my previously statement. Went to do an oil change yesterday and found my oil drain plug loose enough to maybe undo by hand. Same gaskets I've been using. I doubt i forgot to torque these, change was done 6000 miles ago with no leaks. Im actually surprised i havent seen a drip it was so loose.

 

Reading through your experience, I want to share a bit of mine. It's not about my taco but for a Subaru Forester. I purchased such crush washer from big auto store for the oil change (I don't want to throw out their name here, but they are nation wide). The next time when I was under the vehicle, I found class 2 leakage. The drain plug was quite loose which you can barely use two fingers taking it off. I am sure I snug tight the drain bolt last time. After doing a little research online, some people has exactly same issue as me which is from such crusher washer. It is made by material like fiber. Since then, I changed back to metal crusher washer. Not sure why such fiber crush washer is popular nowadays.

 

unfortunately for me it was the metal washers getting crushed too much. I just changed my oil after having to retorque and the washer was almost flat. Never happened that way before. I just bought new washers so we'll see if it was supply chain issues and very soft aluminum.