How to fix a door that got scraped?

The passenger side rear door of my 2019 Access Cab got a bit of a scrape. What's the best way to go about fixing this?

 

That doesn't look too bad, and it's on the bottom of the door, so it may not be worth doing anything.

 

on a 2019, I'd take it to a reputable body shop and have them fix it.

 

Depends on how well you want it fixed... if you want it to look like it was never there then your best bet is probably a body shop but if you're okay with the visible marks and just want to cover up the scuffed areas and make it less noticeable then some touch up paint. I for one suck at anything paint related, the times I've tried to fix bad scratches/scuffs I've always ended up making it worse so paint is one of those things I typically leave to those that know what they're doing.

 

Bummer. You can probably polish out some of that, but likely not all. It’s hard to tell the depth of the scratches from a photo. If you have a polisher, I’d probably start there and see if you’re satisfied enough. You may end up at a body shop anyway but it’s worth trying first, in my opinion. Maybe you could polish enough out so that touch-up paint can be a better option. Good luck.

 

Agree with rsimi72. If you have patience, especially being lower on the vehicle you may be able to get it so it’s hardly noticeable. Here’s a video you may find useful. This was a nasty keying incident across the whole vehicle so much worse than your situation but process should work the same. Hope this helps.
https://www.google.com/search?q=amm...#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:dae161fe,vid:S2aC_oseMe4

 

vinyl wrap it, platsti dip bottom of door, put a sticker on it.

or

take it to body shop and get entire door repainted.


Don’t try to do anything yourself. You will just make it worse.

 

Something similar happened to my 2000 Ford Ranger recently. I had stopped for gas, and while I was still parked at the pump, some 90-year-old lady was trying to maneuver to the next pump, and ended up scraping my passenger door with her bumper. The damage looked very much like the OP's picture.

But I was lucky. The woman's bumper was soft plastic, as opposed to the steel of my door. So the "scratches" were mostly paint transferred from her bumper to my door. I was able to remove these with rubbing compound. My paint was actually intact. There is a small displacement (not even a dent) of the sheet metal, but it's not noticeable unless you know exactly where to look, and then look closely.

Since this is a 22-year-old vehicle, I decided not to do anything further about it. If it had been my 2-year-old Tacoma, I would have taken it to the paintless dent repair place, and paid $300 to get it fixed.

So the moral of this story is, assess the damage first. See what can be dome with rubbing compound.

 

they make a sticker for that.

 

Fix it, pay up, be done with it and move on!

 

Try some Meguiars #7 polish on a microfiber towel. Should buff the white marks off with a little work on your behalf. Then see how it looks. The white rub marks make it a lot worse than it really is. Should be able to find it at AutoZone for about $8-10 for a bottle.

 

Sorry about your truck. It's so new, I'd look at fixing it at a good body shop. You have 10 maybe 15 more years with that truck.

 

Can we get a picture of the damage after all the road game is cleaned off? Hard to really see how bad the actual damage is.

 

if you can feel it with your nail, you will need to paint it to make it 100%. looking at it from pics, there is a "flash" dent in the panel as well. no, it wont buff out. Ski

 

can't tell if there is wrinkled sheet metal with those scratches, if there is then the body shop might be the solution.

A few years ago, I made the mistake of not pulling into my garage enough then closing the garage door. the car wasn't sticking out far out enough to just make the garage door stop and reverse back up like it's supposed to, it just kept going down making contact with the plastic bumper cover surface along the way. it looked horrible, not something I could live with just leaving as is but I dreaded the idea of taking the car to a body shop. i could feel the scratches with the fingernail test.

I found this 3M thing online and figured give it a try, worst case I'll probably have to take it to the body shop anyway. the kit includes very fine grit sandpaper, cutting pad, packet of compound, and a hand drill attachment. I don't remember exactly the compound was. I followed the instructions to the letter and after sanding it looked even worse. I remember thinking there is no way this is going to work. After the pad and compound, I can't tell the scratches were ever there. I went over the entire car with an orbital a month ago and I still don't see those scratches. If the scratches were down to the primer or sheet metal then of course this wouldn't have worked.


3M Scratch Removal System

 

As others have said, that looks like it could be paint transfer which would polish/wax off and be fine. If the scratches are through the paint then you can touch up with touch up paint. It probably won't match perfectly but ill not be that noticeable. If you are really anal about it then taking it to a body shop for repair is your only option.

 

Undamaged access cab doors seem to run around 600 - 700 bucks in salvage yards, might be easier than having your truck tied up in a body shop for an extended period of time.

 

THIS (Shakerhood’s suggestion) is likely the best, fastest AND cheapest “GOOD” repair. Paint will match, no body filler, etc etc etc.

If the wrecking yard is close enough to drive to and pick up the door, you’ll save at least $100+ in freight I’d think. If you can do the work yourself (not hard but would be MUCH easier with a buddy to steady the door while you tighten bolts on hinge) you’ll save $200 plus on the labor.

My issue with taking it to a body shop to get the door fixed and painted is the new paint on the door sometimes fades at a different rate than the factory paint on adjacent panels. This in turn will look like crap years down the road.

Good luck with whatever you decide and please follow up on the thread and let us know what worked (or didn’t). The posters advocating cleaning the scrape marks off and touch up paint and or buffing are definitely correct IF there’s no serious dent. Even if there is a decent dent, if you can get the paint where you can live with it, paint less dent removal professionals can likely minimize that.

 

^metallic paints are the hardest to 'match', as the metal flake will lay down differently than factory spray, and will reflect light differently resulting in a different 'color' to the panel, despite being a correct color match.

 

If they blend the paint into adjacent panel, as they should, plus with mixing and color match spec-meter. Not such a problem these days at a quality body shop