Show off your bead rollers

So, I ordered a Woodward Fab bead roller. I plan to get a power kit for it so I can use it by myself, a table to support the panels, a fence to get nice straight lines, and a stand to hold it all.
I know I will have to do a bit of custom work to make it so the fence and table can be used at the same time. I also know that I don't like the basic stand as I don't want to bolt it to the floor.
So, if you have one, have a buddy who lets you use his, or a FIL who won't, lets see some pictures of it.

 

I was thinking of doing a DIY one. Plasma cut the cogs and frame, turn the dies on the lathe. Would be a fun toy.

 

I am going to build a table that mine will mount to instead of using a stand. I will make it so it has an adjustable fence. This will cost me less than buying a stand/fence/table and allow me to use the fence with the table. I will probably just buy the power drive kit rather than building my own unless I can find a good deal deal on a motor and pedal.

 

i was going to recommend the power drive. really difficult to control the feed speed while keeping the part straight otherwise!

i've got the eastwood version. probably built in the same factory, but eastwood is local for me.


i've really only used it for 1 project so far. so it's more of a tool looking for a purpose than a purpose for a tool at this point!
locking in some aluminum led tape light channel into some molle panels for bed lighting. no i don't have a clue what i'm doing. i make it up as a i go!

 

I bought the Woodward Fab roller several years ago... and found the plate is too flexible for 18ga steel sheet...

So I cut some reinforcement plates and welded to the back of the main plate to control the twist...



I also welded up a stand for it and added a gear reduction box connected to the driving shaft by a chain and sprockets. The gear reduction box is powered by a cheap Harbor freight drill. I installed an outlet box on the stand to plug the drill into... the outlet box is switched through a foot pedal. This allows me to use both hands to guide the sheet through while powering the roller with my foot... I can turn it off and on at will...



I've only used it a couple of times... but I did make a set of floor pans for a '64 Fairlane with it...



I had to make them in sections due to the shallow throat of the roller... not a problem, it just meant more welding...

-Bear

 

Finally getting to working on mine. First modification is a return spring on the upper roller.
I drilled and tapped a hole in the bearing block for a 1/4-20 bolt and added a compression spring. Now, the upper roller is automatically pulled up as I loosen the tensioner bolt.
I picked up some 2" square tube to brace it, some heavy wall 3/4" square tube and 2x3 angle to build a fence. I just ordered the power drive kit from Summit ($425), but need to figure out how I want to mount it. Kind of thinking about building a work bench that it will sit into so I have a large flat table to use.
Please excuse the mess.

 

Added some bracing to stiffen it up and put it on a stand with a motor.

Prime use will be the floor of my car......

 

First attempt at making hat channel. No guide line, just threw the scrap on and tried it. I realized I need better lighting, so I'll make sure I have guide lines and good light when I make some for use.
Started at contact plus half then added had turn on each pass.
Any tips yall have learned?
I definitely like and recommend the return spring modification.

 

Added a stand for the mini english wheel. Also got a box for the dies, set it up so they can be easily oiled in the box by adding a couple drops of oil to the foam and rotating the dies.
On the bead roller, I added a L hook to hand the wrench, added 6x 1/4" studs to hold additional dies without having to switch them on the studs when I change dies, and added am arm to the bolt for the top roller to make it easy to tighten to roll. I did flub up the threads on the spike, but it had some weird British thread and I had to retread it to 3/8-24 but it tilted a little bit. Oh well.
I also drilled new holes for the motor bracket to get it so I could use the 90* and tipping dies. Before, they hit the frame of it.