General Fabrication

So far I can say that @Dirt King Fab has hands down some of the best customer service I have experienced since getting into trucks. All the questions I’ve had were always answered and answered with the upmost professionalism! So I know tackling the install myself I can go to them for all the necessary info, which I will need to lol.

 

So first off, I know this isn’t a great question, so please don’t kill me for asking.

I’m really low on shielding gas for my mig and conveniently under a tight time line to get my truck done. This weekend I have to get two perches welded on. Let’s say I run of gas…

I only really have two options. Go buy some flux core wire (I haven’t used this in a very long time) or try using nitrogen for shielding gas.

Google failed me since most things I read were people wanting to use it due to price or trying to improve welding. Nothing just using it in a pinch.

What’s the word? Think it’s doable or am I screwed.

 

I would be worried about the nitrogen making the steel brittle and prone to cracking.

Search Nitrogen embrittlement on google

 

I know you can use CO2 for shielding gas but not sure if nitrogen will work.

 

Yeah that’s one result I found. Mixed with other results it makes the weld stronger unless you are using really high amperage/voltage. Didn’t go too much farther on it.

Well good news/bad news. I can’t get to the welding part this weekend anyway. I had to cut off every piece of hardware for the leaf springs. So no reinstalling until I can get more.

 

Why’d you have to do that?

 

All of them were seized in the sleeves. All I have is a MAP torch and a 2.5# mini sledge. Neither of which worked.

 

thats always a bummer.

 

Yep. Sucks too because I have a deadline to get all of this done. So the three day weekend would have been nice.

But I’m basically done now because no one local sells the sleeves and I’m not sure on the bolts either.

 

So first off since I just saw my old posts…remember my shielding gas problem? Well my main pressure gauge is broken so I can only tell airflow by the actually nozzle flow gauge ir hearing it. Somehow I had closed the nozzle flow valve. Noticed it shortly after the post. I’ve gone through probably another half spool of wire and still haven’t ran out of gas.

Now for my question. How many of you have successfully built your rigs with a 110 mig? Up to this point I’ve built multiple rigs using 110 and have yet to break a weld. My younger self didn’t care, but now that I’m older I’m a bit nervous to be gluing structural parts together with my 110.

My future plans are JD lower mount kit, rear links, maybe taller coil buckets for the front, etc. All of those failed welds = disaster.

I’m a loser forever renter so anything over 110 is never going to happen.

What’s the word?

 

kind of a loaded question. You have already successfully built rigs with 110. I would personally progress with caution but it really depends on the thickness of metal you’re trying to weld. The JD relocation is damn near 1/4” thick in itself.

 

Well current one is really just welding perches and shock mounts. Lots of 1/4” which I usually preheat first.

The other main one was a competition rock crawler (back before there were buggies) where is designed my own four link with 1/4 elliptic springs. Nothing broke but I can’t say if my younger self gave me that jeep if I’d actually feel comfortable driving it at freeway speeds.

Plus I feel like what we build out trucks for is way more harsh than rock crawling (maybe not driveline and body panels though). Not counting the nut jobs that drive up hills at 80mph and 110% throttle.

 

By chance does anyone have dimensions for LCA mounts of a 3rd gen? I'm shredding bushings like a mofo in my 3rd gen, and I think my tabs may be bent. Figured ya'll fab'ers may have either access to what things should be, or a clean setup that's easy to measure.

Thanks!

 

Not exactly what you are asking, but I will share my experience.

Years ago, a motorcycle slid into me (wet roads - he was OK). He punctured my left front tire, bent the wheel, bent the spindle, and slid along my slider. I was going about 20 MPH at the time, and on the other side of me was a long drop off. Back to the truck...

Replaced the spindle, wheel and tire, and aligned it to spec. But, when I turned, the tire rubbed on the rear of the inner fender - never did that before. Further investigation revealed the mounting tabs for the LCA were bent to the rear - sort of a "Z" bend, since the tabs were still parallel to each other. The center point moved rearward. But it was still in "spec".

To fix this, I used a bottle jack against the crossmember. I straightened the tabs, put the suspension together, and got it aligned. Now, the tire does not rub. Again, in "spec". (Same shop - and I do trust them to do good work.)

Point of all this is, I don't know that "specs" exist. I suggest you measure several trucks. Once you see how they are, your issue will hopefully become obvious.

 

Its best to have both camber/castor tabs "even", so you aren't cocking the Lca (say you have the castor cam maxed outwards, and camber cam maxed out inwards, thatd put twist on the bushings).

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a tubing bender? I am looking to bend up to 1.75" 0.120 wall tubing for bumpers and sliders. I have been looking at the affordable bender cause it hits the pricepoint. Seems like a good compromise from like a JD2 or roguefab bender.

https://www.affordablebender.com/co...roducts/affordable-bender-134-die-on-7-radius

 

I have a cheaper version of that because I don't use it but once a year maybe. The only issue I had was the hole in the die where the screw is to mount to the bender left dimples in the tube. I was bending 1.75x0.120 mild steel.

 

Buying into JD2, you're really doing it for the quality of their dies.

Roguefab does some weird shit to tube when you bend it, causing it to stretch in a way that it really pushes the diameter of your tube quite a bit.

I was about to order from JD Squared but want to do so via phone. Had some questions to ask but their communication is horrible.

Everyone's been happy with their products (that I've talked to), but expressed the same lack of comms and long wait times.

With that said, I'm still going JD Squared regardless.

 

Thanks for the info, I am probably going to go with the one I linked cause as of now its just for personal use. Maybe if I can justify it financially(it'll pay for itself) I'll upgrade in the future.

 

I use a jd squared model 32 and I love it. If I had the budget to make a purchase for comparison I would have look into the swag fab new bender.


https://www.swagoffroad.com/products/swag-rev-2-tubing-bender