Replacing Bearing/Hub - need a sander for cleaning surfaces?

I'm studying videos for replacing my bearing/hub assemblies.

In this one he uses a sander to clean rust and burrs from surfaces. I'm gonna have to pick one up I guess.

1. What sort of pads should I be using for this task? Grit size and composition?
2. Also, anyone have recommendations on what kind of penetrant to use to help smooth removal of the bolts and various other parts? Are they all pretty equal or do some out perform others? (I have some PB Blaster, not sure if it is effective or not, haven't used it yet.)

 

A drill with a metal wire wheel works great.

 

I’ve also used the 2” roloc 3m surface prep pads On my Milwaukee angle die grinder. They work great


As far as penetrant, I’m a big kroil fanboy.

I just did a front hub on my truck. The hardest thing was getting that big cap off.

 

If you live in a cold state then just hit it with a wire wheel on a drill, or even just a hand wire brush. For warm states you won't have that much or any rust so no worries.

Don't overthink it, just get it decently clean

 

A note on the Kroil, spray on a few days ahead of the time you’re planning on doing the work. It’s not necessary but it does help.

 

Just did one of mine this past weekend. Personally Im a big fan of a carbide scraper. For example:

$14 Titan - 5/8 Carbide Scraper (17010)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CV23377/?th=1

You do have to be careful how you hold the tool and apply pressure, it is carbide after all and will easily cut into the metal if held up on edge at the wrong angle. Wire wheels work good too.

The 4x hub bolts are blind holes, so penetrating oil may not help that much. Personally I didnt have any issues breaking mine loose and I live in the salt belt

You will want a good 6pt (not 12pt) 17mm wrench for those bolts. Ratcheting is even better

 

How did you finally manage it?

In the video he just taps in a pry tool and ... bing! No problems.

 

What I do is sharpen a small chisel and tap gently around the edge, with penetrating fluid spraying lightly.

it’s stupid but you don’t want to damage it, so slow and even is best.

 

I feel for you guys in the rust belt.
I don’t know how you all do it.

My assemblies fell right out. Didn’t even need a hammer.

 

I sprayed it down with Kroil and then tapped on it with block of wood and hammer. It took a while. For me tapping on the crack with a pry bar didn’t work well.

 

I use a wood chisel.
They are sharp and thin enough to not bend the lip.

 

I used a small but 'sharp' (no burs) cold chisel. One edge flat up against the hub. Seems counter intuitive but I wasnt getting anywhere any other way and wanted to minimize damage to the cap.

Ive used a wood chisel in the past, but wasnt getting anywhere with it this time. Found it was too narrow and sharp. Damn rust.

 

Agreed! Mine tapped right out with a couple of persuasive blows from a dead blow hammer. Mine almost went too easy!
Of course, if I die anytime soon, you all better be trying to buy my truck. It's an absolute cream puff.

 

Just buy new bearing assemblies and then a little WD40 a fine flat file and Scotch-Brite for the knuckle/spindle.

 

I did mine a while back because of a bearing rumble that only corrected when I turned left...
It was a seriously demoralizing process...I for SURE thought I was toast and then FINALLY POP...
I had to use multiple screwdrivers AND a log splitter wedge...
after that to pop the hub I had to put the axle nut on a few turns and hit it dead on with a sledge hammer...make sure IF you resort to this you have a spare nut in case you dent the threads like I did...
I sanded the surface with polishing paper and then put some anti seize on.

 

see if you can pry opposite sides at the same time with a wood chisel. That's what I think i did...and if you dent it in any way get it back to exact shape as it has to be popped back on perfectly evenly

 

How did you cause that dent on the inside of your axel nut?

 

I think you could have just hit that nut on a grinder to remove just the damaged portion.

 

Put the round end of a ball peen hammer right in the divot on the end of the CV. Hold it firm against the CV and then swing the sledge into the ball peen.

A little bit of grease on the splines before installing the new hub should help next time

 

If you need to hit the axle to knock it loose from the hub you don’t want to directly strike the end so you’re supposed to put the axle nut on backwards and hit it firm and square with a sledgehammer. I hit it a little too firm