What can go wrong with my truck - or RysiuM build

After I finished servicing my lawn mower tractor (oil change, lubrication and prepare for a winter) I looked at my Tacoma and I felt ashamed. She is still sitting and waiting for the service. So here we come, no more excuses.

At first I took a whole bunch of pictures of the top of the engine - I did not want to guess later, how particular hose or cable was routed, or if there was a bolt in some threaded hole. There are some empty treaded holes used to mount whatever option I don't have and for sure later I would be confused where is the bolt that goes in there:



The other thing which for sure I would be confused is which ignition wire goes to each pole in the distributor. High voltage ignition wires are really f-up by the rodent which chewed them up last year. I temporarily connect them and wrapped in insulation tape, but they will be replaced - already have a set. Because in Poland there is no place to buy any "aftermarket" parts for 95 Tacoma (I believe my truck is the only one 1995 Tacoma in the entire country), so I had to pay full price at local Toyota parts department (and I am happy that I can still buy locally most of the parts for this 26 years old American truck).



And now, brace yourself. Here is the top of the engine head in 26 years old truck with 334,865 miles on the clock. It's co clean that you can eat out of it.



And this is despite my f-up on the last service. As you can see the oil is really dirty - it has close to 10k miles. Yes, I did f-up . I was commuting to the construction site of my new house almost every day, driving 50 miles on each round trip. All these miles added up, me being so occupied by the house construction I did not realize how many miles I drove for that year till I went for annual inspection, and they read me the clock.

I noticed that distributor base was wet from the oil and some oil accumulated on the AC compressor mount.



I don't think it is anything serious - the leak came from that corner of the valve cover which was not being tightened up correctly - I loosened up and removed valve cover bolts from that corner by hand. That will be fixed. I already planned to replace valve cover gasket and rubber crush washers. I'm also planning to replace spark plag tube seals (quite expensive they are), as I noticed the top of one seal was wet. Nothing major but I guess this 26 years old rubber got hard after being exposed to engine heat. All other rubber parts are very decent - no cracks in aby vacuum hoses yet.



The biggest task for this service will be checking and possibly adjusting valve clearance. I'm very curious how it is in this truck, that runs all original shims they put it in there in the factory (did they build engines in Japan and put them into truck in Fremont, or there was an engine factory somewhere in USA?).

After this is done, I'll replace spark plugs too. They have over 50k miles on them. Besides replacing spark wires I'm planning to replace the lower radiator hose and inspect (possibly lubricate) the e-brake "floating" bracket (the one bolted on to differential).

I will not put the airbags before the annual inspection. I am not sure if they will interfere with shock absorbers action which is checked by a computerized machine at the test station. After I pass the inspection and everything will be OK, then I will add firestone airbags, so I will be able to get more stuff on the back.

This truck is holding great. No spec of rust, and everything is working. After 26 (it will be 27 years soon) and over half million km driven. Here is the odometer picture taken today.

 

I did not have much time today to work on the truck, but I was able to check the first set of valves. My feeler gauges are in the resolution: 0-3-5-8-10 so I can't measure it more accurate. However by the "feel" how easy was to slide the gauge I can guestimate the value. This is what I was able to measure:

Exhaust:
1a = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)
1b = 0.30 - 0.33mm (feels like 0.30mm)
3a = 0.25 - 0.28mm (feels like 0.27mm)
3b = 0.30 - 0.33mm (feels like 0.30mm)

Intake:
1a = 0.20 - 0.23mm (feels like 0.21mm)
1b = 0.20 - 0.23mm (feels like 0.20mm)
2a = 0.18 - 0.20mm (feels like 0.18mm)
2b = 0.18 - 0.20mm (feels like 0.18mm)



The spec says 0.25 - 0.35 for exhaust, and 0.15 - 0.25 for intake, so all my numbers are within the factory range:



I see, they are in the lower half of the range, but that can be expected after 334,865 miles. I am not going to touch them by the rule "don't fix what ain't broken". I hope other valves are within the spec too, that would save me time and money on buying shims (they will be on special order for sure, as my local Toyota dealer don't stock them on shelf), and buying the valve tool.

There is one observation I made while pushing feeler gauges under cams - the old oil is so dirty . How I could be so rude to my truck and not do the oil change on time?

 

I couldn't wait till tomorrow. Do you fill lucky, punk? So I spun the shaft and took the measurements of the other eight valves. Here they are (Sorry, there was a typo in my previous post - the gauges are in series 0-3-5-8-10 but the measured numbers remain the same ):

Exhaust:
2a = 0.20 - 0.23mm (feels like 0.22mm)
2b = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)
4a = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.28mm)
4b = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)

Intake:
3a = 0.20 - 0.22mm (feels like 0.21mm)
3b = 0.22 - 0.25mm (feels like 0.22mm)
4a = 0.20 - 0.22mm (feels like 0.20mm)
4b = 0.18 - 0.20mm (feels like 0.19mm)




BANG!!! There was still one bullet in the gun! One exhaust valve is short - not much, but it is out of spec. My goal will be to bump it up by 0,08mm to bring it close to all other exhaust valves in the middle of the range. Back to reading FSM and watching @Timmah!'s video (Thank you Tim)

https://youtu.be/f0zzsBhs3iA

 

I am cheap . I watched Tim's video and checked for the shim removal tool used by Jordan. Not available to buy in Poland for reasonable price. I can get it of Amazon, for 60 dollars (including shipping) but it will take at least two weeks to deliver. And that tool is nothing that fancy. The pliers part used to press down a valve can be replaced with anything that has enough leverage to compress the valve spring. The bucket holding tool is just a piece of sheet metal cut so it can slide between camshaft and the bucket. The best information on that video was given by Tim, that is the length of that piece that goes between the camshaft and bucket = 9.75mm. It took me less than half hour with angle grinder, bench grinder and a file to convert te pice of metal strip into that tool. For pressing down the valve I used some homemade tool for ... I don't even remember what it was for , but worked here great.




This is the first time ever I removed valve shims in an engine, but it turned out to be easier than an oil change . This is my "valve adjustment tool set:




I measured existing shim with two different micrometers (to be sure to be sure) - it was 2.998mm and 0.118inch. Based on my calculations (and double checked with the table in FSM ) the desired shim size is number 9 that is 2.900mm (or 0.1142in).



I just ordered from my local Toyota, and it turned out these shims are quite popular (I guess they are used in Toyota engines available in Poland) so I will pick it up on Thursday. If everything goes as planned I may be able to start driving my Tacoma next week.

 

While waiting for the shim I replaced spark plug tube seals. The original were hard like made out of bakelite, not a rubber. Actually one of these seals broke apart when I was removing it. Hard and brittle. Did not do much sealing, it was more like for a decoration . Thy are super easy to replace, even in 26 years old engine. The clue is to not overthink it. FSM calls for the following procedure:



I couldn't use a screwdriver to pry out the gasket. A screwdriver would have to go almost horizontally, and the handle end interferes with the top of the head cover. Instead of bending a screwdriver I used a small prybar instead. Worked like a charm.

For installing new seals FSM calls for SST. This is because the "lip part" (inner ring) of the seal sticks higher then the edge, and you need to press the seal on the edge, not on the lip. Instead of SST I used the old seal. It it the perfect size tube that fits on the top of the new seal. Tapping it slightly with a small mallet drives the new seal in place. Of course before installing new seals all holes in the valve cover were cleaned and lubricated with an engine oil. With this lubrication you can press the new seal almost by hand. Here are new seals installed.



To clean some sludge from the valve cover I used WD-40 - it removed most of the dark brown stuff.

 

New shim is installed. I'd never knew that valve adjustment is so easy job on 3RZ. With the new shim (2.900) the exhaust valve 2a clearance went to 0.29mm - exactly the same as 2b.
So now the numbers for all valves are:

Exhaust:
1a = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)
1b = 0.30 - 0.33mm (feels like 0.30mm)
2a = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)
2b = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)
3a = 0.25 - 0.28mm (feels like 0.27mm)
3b = 0.30 - 0.33mm (feels like 0.30mm)
4a = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.28mm)
4b = 0.28 - 0.30mm (feels like 0.29mm)

Intake:
1a = 0.20 - 0.23mm (feels like 0.21mm)
1b = 0.20 - 0.23mm (feels like 0.20mm)
2a = 0.18 - 0.20mm (feels like 0.18mm)
2b = 0.18 - 0.20mm (feels like 0.18mm)
3a = 0.20 - 0.22mm (feels like 0.21mm)
3b = 0.22 - 0.25mm (feels like 0.22mm)
4a = 0.20 - 0.22mm (feels like 0.20mm)
4b = 0.18 - 0.20mm (feels like 0.19mm)

So except 3a Exhaust and 2a/2b Intake all numbers are in the middle of the spec. Perfect. 3a and 4a Exhaust are on the watch list, as well as 2a and 2b Intake.

While installing a valve cover I noticed how differently spark plug tubes went in through new gaskets. Tubes got sealed nicely. I recommend everybody, who is removing valve cover for whatever reason, to check these gaskets, and if they are hard, replace them.

I watched some parts of Tim's video again, especially looking for the torque spec for the cover bolts. I could not find it in FSM. Thanks again to Tim for all good information in there. One thing I did different during the valve cover installation. Jordan had a hard time with accessing a rear right bolt (Cyl 4 pass side). The plastic wire loom was in the way. I don't know how it is in 4Runner, but in my Tacoma I did the following:
- I pulled out the loom from the bracket on the pass side and then I unbolted that loom bracket (together with the engine ground wire). I removed the bracket because I wanted the ground wire out of the way.
- I pulled out the same loom from the bracket on the other side of the engine (it is impossible to see that bracket without using mirror, but it is easy to feel it).



Once the loom was free from both brackets it could be moved slightly left and right - not much but enough to use a socket for both rear valve cover bolts. This way I was able to use a torque wrench for all 10 bolts (not a "gutentight" like Jordan did).

I replaced all spark plugs as well. The old ones were in perfect condition - no burn marks and all gaps were exactly 0.8mm (like they should be). But because I already bought a set of Denso plugs, so I just put them in anyway.

Before I finish the installation of the intake tube between the resonator and air filter box I will do an oil change first. Without that tube it is much easier to access the oil filter. If everything goes as planned (I need to do oil change and replace the lower radiator hose) I should have mu Tacoma ready for driving on Saturday. Good timing, as I already have some work planned (pull a trailer all the way around the property to move concrete fence posts for a new fence installation).

 

So some people spend Black Friday by saving money while spending them. I am saving money not only by not spending them on "deals", but also by doing service on my own truck . I replaced the lower radiator hose - the old one was in quite good shape, no cracking or bulging, but I decided to not take a chance - if upper hose after 25 years bulged and developed a pinhole, the lower was a ticking bomb. I know the lower radiator hose is treated much more gently by the engine (the coolant over there is almost cold all the time) but still it is super easy job and the cost of Toyota OEM coolant hose was something like 25 dollars. The problem with the busting of the lower radiator hose is that the engine would loose all the coolant and in just few seconds you can kiss the engine head good bye.

Then I replaced the engine oil. Oh My God I have never seen the engine oil so dark (except diesels) . I replaced the oil filter and put the new oil. The FSM says 5.4 liters with filter change, but the engine took only 5 litters and the dipstick showed full. After putting everything back (the intake part) I started the engine. Within a second the low oil light went away, the engine was idling at 1200 rpm, which is normal for cold engine, no immediate code. It means I put everything back together correctly . I shut it down, installed the skid plates and then rechecked the oil level - stil was almost full. Because I was working in the garage I did not want to run the engine for much longer, so I did not burp the cooling system. I just added all the excess coolant I drained to the overflow box. The engine will burp itself through driving cycles. Because before the draining the coolant level was on the low side, I added 0.5l 50% Toyota Red mix, and that made the coolant level in the overflow just above the full. When the engine burps, it will drop a bit, hopefully to the Full mark..

I checked the "swingy thing" on the e-brake cable (the thing that distributes the cable tension to a both rear wheels equally. It is not stuck, but moves with quite resistance. I will take it apart and fix it tomorrow. This is easy job, just a bit messy as all that is covered with dried mud that stuck to the last year fluid film. But regardless of that little thing my truck is finally drivable again. It's time to put some miles on it, otherwise the guy at the inspection station will be confused why the odometer reading from the last inspection is almost the same as now. Really, since the last annual inspection in January the truck made less than 50 miles.

 

Yes, the swingy thing on the e-brake cable was all rusted again. I took it apart cleaned all the rust, applied very generous amount of grease and put it back together. Now the e-brake works way better.

Then I checked horn signal - I have dual tone FIAMM "freeway blaster" and lately I noticed they were not working from time to time. I took one out, and the other got silent. I checked all electrical connections and they were OK, I checked the "blaster" and it "burped" occasionally. I did install them 5 years ago, and I guess it is the lifespan of that "Proudly Made in USA" product. 26 years old original Toyota horn stil works. The FIAMM "blaster" can't be opened without cutting it and bending metal. I must say, all guts were clean, no trace of water penetration (that's good thing), but contacts that make "bzzz" were burned, and did not conduct electricity anymore. I assume this is the case with the other blaster too. I cleaned contacts with sandpaper and put the horn back together sealing it with gasket maker. I am not going to put it back in the truck, but keep it as a spare just in case.

I just ordered a horn set from Bosh (0986AH0503). I'm afraid it will not be as loud as "blaster", but hopefully it will last longer than 5 years. For now I just put original Toyota "moped style" horn, so I can drive legally.

 

New horns from Bosh finally arrived.



After reading the instruction I noticed my old horns were installed in the wrong orientation. With the "trumpet" positioned vertically there is a chance that water pushed inside may got stuck in there. By design Bosh recommended horizontal orientation with the plastic trumpet facing down and the outlet to the front of the vehicle.



I noticed smal drain holes in the trumpet and this is the only installation position where gravity would drain any water pushed inside. I modified brackets by bending them 90 degrees and now they are installed correctly (according to Bosh).




Bosh horns are definitely quieter than FIAMM "freeway blaster" Of course they meet the guidelines requiring minimum sound pressure of 93db at 7meters in front of the vehicle.



Besides it there is no information in the documentation how loud they are just same info on different sites stating 110db. But for sure they are louder than original "mee mee" horn that came with the truck. I think I can live with that.

If not, I'll order another set or maybe two of FIAMM "freeway blaster" - if their lifespan is 5 years indeed, I would have to replace them from time to time. But first I'll see how Bosh horns perform on the road (if I get attention when needed) and what is the life of these.

I know the installation puts the trumpet just behind the bumper valance and that blocks some sound but I did it in purpose of protecting trumpets from road debris.

 

Quick update. I took my truck for the annual inspection again. The long story short my truck passed all "tortures" with flying colors. Zero complains. Having the opportunity to comfortably walk under the truck I tested LBJ, and they are like new. All brakes are tight and even including hand brake too. Every moving part is tight and perfect, all bearings, driveshaft, suspension. The frame is spotless (thank you Fluid Film"), and rocker panels are spotless too (this is the first thing that goes in all cars in Poland).

The good thing I caught the guy making error while taking a note of the odometer reading. At first he put 135k miles but when I told him it is 335k at first he couldn't believe then looked again and saw, that indeed the first digit is "3". He said, they don't make cars and trucks like this anymore, including new Toyota Hilux, which does not resemble tough Top Gear's truck anymore.

 

As a general rule insurance companies in Poland do not insure "comprehensive" for cars older than 10 years. So my Tacoma was insured for basic liability. But this was 5 years ago when the truck was worth 5k USD or so. This year I'm working of getting full coverage, but to get the coverage limit (yes I know it is stupid in Poland) insurance companies requested an official appraisal. So I got it. The official value of my truck in Poland is now a bit over 15k USD. That is 27 years old truck with over 335k limes on the clock. Crazy times .

 

The last year I have not done to the truck a single thing except the oil change. Actually I take it back. I removed the camper shell, for a couple days, so I could load the bed with horse's manure I needed for my garden. Then I cleaned the bed and put the camper shell back. The biggest mechanical failure I experienced was suction cap phone holder fell of the windshield

Anyway It's time to get the annual inspection done. For the entire year I put 1800 miles on it - that is on average 150 miles a month. Of course truck pass all the torture with zero complains. This year there was a new guy and he performed all tests including headlights cut-off and my new Bosh horn (darn, that thing was loud).

 

It appears that I have not been on Tacoma World for almost 2 years. I can only blame my truck for it - it refused to break down .

So all my repair skills I dedicated to my newest toy: it is 1966 Ursus C-328/330 - Polish farm tractor. It is even simpler than Tacoma - because it is all mechanical diesel the electrical system is needed only for lights, horn and starter. Once started, it does not need battery or alternator. Love it.



But this story is for the other "World" .

Now back to Tacoma, which recently developed a very well known "power steering whine". Thanks to members of this forum, I was not surprised - I have not touched the power steering since I bought this truck in 1998. I didn't even add a PS fluid. But after almost 30 years since it came from a production line the filter screen in PS reservoir got plugged up.

I decided not to do a full flush yet, but just to clean the screen - easy and not that messy. In 2.7 it has easy access and it's quite easy to remove the reservoir without touching PS pump. The reservoir is held by 3 bolts (12mm head). 2 of them are easy accessible from the back, but to get to the front one the PS pulley needs to be removed. So steps are:

1. Remove PS belt:
- loosen a bolt on the tensioner wheel - 14mm wrench
- loosen the tensioner adjusting bole till belt is easy to remove

2. Remove the pulley:
- stick something through the holes in the pulley against the PS pump case to lock it and remove the nut - 17mm wrench. In my almost 30 years old truck it was not stuck and easy remove.
- using prybar against the PS pump case remove the pulley. Again, surprisingly easy.

3. Undo the clamp and detach PS return hose

4. Remove all three bolts holding the reservoir to the body. Two from the back, one from the front - 12mm wrench. Did I say "easy"?

Pull the reservoir up BUT first (!!!):

1. drain the fluid from reservoir as much as you can
2. Put a lot of rugs around and under the PS pump as some fluid will spill all over the place.

The mesh screen did not let any light through even with powerful LED flashlight.
It took an hour of bathing the reservoir in break pad cleaner. There was no goo, but something like a mud, black sand and flakes. A lot of that. I was not able to make the screen "factory clean" - probably after few more hours I could do that, but it was about 90% clean. I figure out it will be good for next 20 years.

I put it back together in reverse order, added Dexron II and called it a day. No whining, all work perfectly. I know I supposed to replace the o-ring, but I did not have a new one and the existing one was not hard and in good condition. I will replace it if I see a leak.