What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Is that a OEM window sill or after market, do you have a part number ? Thanks in advance. Good looking truck you have there.

 

I can’t find the receipt since I’m on the road this week, but:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/simple-how-to-fix-that-crappy-door-trim.154485/

 

Thank you!!

 

Changed my old Radiator, installed a

$51 hayden 678 universal rapid-cool 9.5” x 11” add-on transmission cooler – not for direct replacement of the OE cooler

hayden 678 external transmission cooler, installed an inline magnetic transmission filter. Changed the fuel filter, Changed the oil and filter.

Changed the old headlights with led lights plasti dip the chrome grille.

 

realized since adding Auxito LED headlights, my hi-beam indicator wasn't working. ordered their decoders, now it works properly. they said they will reimburse me if they work so we'll see if i get a refund. i think they were $25.

 

I have had one of their sample bottles on my work bench for years. I guess I should send a sample in some time.

 

Learned the hard way that if you burn out the 10A Tail fuse in the engine compartment your night time dash lights will go out... now I get to put everything back in place.

 

they worked and they credited my Amazon order for them.

 

Ran wire and mocked up the accessories plate. Still need to run a spade connector to the relay trigger and relay ground but its basically ready to be dropped into the truck then wire up all the fun stuff.

 

More progress on my bolt on outboard shock mounts.

 

So you are basically setting it up so you can turn all your accessories off with a switch or is it going to be triggered by ignition on?

 

It'll be ignition triggered. I'm tapping off of the power outlet fuse under the hood for the relay trigger. The only accessories I really plan on running now are a CB and some various lights. Though this setup allows for more expansion if wanted. Will probably run another smaller board with an "always on" configuration eventually.

 

Try magic eraser and some elbow grease. Worked for mine.

Edit: At least it did for the black part. Not sure about the other part.

 

Chrome on grill was bubbling and peeling off so I bought a new grill from eBay and replaced it. Next up I gotta replace the driver side bumper chrome piece, but not looking forward to taking the whole bumper off to do it.

 

Wired up and works exactly as planned. Need to go back and clean up wiring/run it more efficiently but will do that when I start doing accessory runs. Anyone ever drilled through the firewall before?

 

Quick key modification while I was sick with COVID. I've messed around a decent bit with the RS3000 and RS3200 keyless entry fobs in my 99 and 04. These remotes are all ancient now and cracking/falling apart. An aftermarket remote does the job, but 3D printing has allowed for some cool alternatives.

YotaMD makes a direct replacement housing for the older RS3000 fob. The RS3200 fobs aren't as easily replaceable if they have an LED on them, which my 04 Tacoma and 03 Tundra OEM fobs both had. The aftermarket options from AJT Design and YotaMD are designed for the RS3200 fobs that didn't have an LED. You can match the FCC ID from the back of these LED fobs and purchase a non-LED aftermarket fob that will fit these aftermarket cases fine.

Now for the key I did below. Some Chinese company developed a fob that uses the 07-11 Camry key fob with a different board programmed for the older RS3200 system. A few minutes with a dremel and I was able to fit that aftermarket board and rubber contact pads inside this AJT Design fob case. So I have an integrated key/fob in a 1st gen Tacoma that doesn't remind me of an old Camry fob.

 

Started on the road to turbocharging, got the bed off to change the fuel pump (and clean some Moab off the frame), then went and bought another fuel tank cause mine rusted up real good externally, cleaned the new (used) fuel tank internally, and started putting in the new Aeromotive 340 pump.

 

Shout out to JBA UCAs, BJs have 65-70k on them, didnt grease them for 50k and still absolutely no play.
OEM LBJs have 30-40k on them and have 2-3mm of play.

I assume that would be the issue with gaining negative camber when I roll in reverse and go back to 0 camber when I drive forward. Or maybe its my toe, should get an alignment either way.

 

What lower control arms are you running? Parts store LCA bushings are only going to last ~20K if you do any wheeling at all.

 

I believe I have whiteline bushings on oem arms. Bushings arent too terribly old but that may be part of the issue.