2017 Tacoma TRD-3.5 L engine problems

Yes it's blue. nice powder almost sky blue perhaps, depending on how the light refracts through the cloud.

 

Coolant burns white, not blue

 

Why would a long idle/warm up fix the problem? Perhaps you didn't read my initial post: it smoke a puff on start up then idles fine, no constant smoke like a fire. Sometimes it doesn't even puff smoke on start up.

And I would know that after driving it for more than 15 minutes the engine is sufficiently warm, as the temperature gauge indicates as well. But even after that it blows a puff/cloud of smoke on acceleration sometimes.

And I don't believe in these long warm up idles that waste fuel and contribute to the engine heating. Let it idle/fast idle as the computer will tell it to for a few minutes then drive slowly until sufficiently warm to allow normal operating conditions.

I'll leave up to the techs next month to make the diagnosis. Just that I am surprised/shocked to see a engine, particularly a Toyota have this condition with only 155,000 km on it. And yes I maintain the truck, do not do any high rpm 4x4 stuff. Could be the cold weather or the previous owner wasn't changing oil at regular intervals, and cylinder walls/oil seal rings are damaged or the valve seals, blah blah blah

watch this video from "The Car Nut" : (5) TOYOTA OWNERS! Please NEVER Do THIS to Your Toyota! - YouTube

 

Oil burning and Toyotas are a pretty standard thing since the late 90's Camry 4 bangers. There are a few reasons why that would happen.

- bad PCV valve
- bad valve stem seals
- bad oil control rings

Anything past a bad PCV valve requires a mechanical teardown.

 

I have owned Toyota's all my life, never had this problem before.

 

Just because you never had the problem doesn't mean that it wasn't a problem.

I personally watched and worked on many Toyotas that all came in with the same oil consumption/ burning complaint. It was always one of the three reasons above.

 

Once again, this 2017 Tacoma is Toyota number 7. None of the others have ever had an issue of using/burning oil, full stop. Not sure what Toyota's you have seen or worked on. My wife has a 2016 Sienna, same engine as in my Tacoma with 220,000 km, doesn't burn or use oil.

 

My brother owned a 2001 highlander with a 3.0 v6 that started burning oil at 80k miles, and got worse where he was putting 2 qt's in every week. That suv turned 3k rpm at 70 mph the way it came factory geared. Toyota knew about it, changing the gearing on later models to prevent hearing from future engines wearing out at this mileage. That engine was also a known sludge engine that had burning oil issues when past 100k. At any rate he got a check from Toyota to be used toward a new model of theirs. He's had a couple rave4's since, and loves them.

 

Good for him, no way a dealership up here in Canada will be giving me a cheque because of my issues, just a quote for a short block replacement or valve seal job at $150/hr shop rate! Your brother must have had a good lawyer or knew someone at the dealership.

 

Cool. I was trying to be helpful and share with you my experiences on the professional side of the auto industry regarding this make and some of the potential causes that can be the source of your issue. I can see you obviously know better than me though, so okay. Enjoy your low mileage oil burner.

 

In no way was I trying to be disrespectful sir. I don't know how your comments were helpful, as I have said before, never known a Toyota to have these problems. And yes I know about valve stem seals, oil ring seals being a very costly, time/labour intensive job, one that I can not afford.

As sated before, I have an appointment with an independent Toyota specialist next month for them to diagnose/advise. If it is am engine out/ partial tear down to fix, I will probably not go with that and cut my losses for the hit on the trade value. What else am I supposed to do?

 

Before your appointment replace the pcv valve and see if that works. It is easy and inexpensive and often causes problems in engines that have gone through longer mileage oil change intervals and the previous owner may have followed the book which is not good as far as oil change intervals.

 

Thanks I'll try that.

 

Because your engine is cold and thus, hasn't expanded. What I'm suggesting is that before you pull out all of your hair over potentially burning oil or piston rings not seating, what you could be seeing is the ECU dumping extra fuel to help with the air fuel mixture in such cold temperatures.

You may not believe in a warm-up, but I do and I'll tell you why. The majority of your engine wear occurs before the engine reaches operating temperature. Putting a load on the engine during this time is going to accelerate the warmup, but also add additional wear. This is something your block heater would have helped you with, especially when you're talking about -40°. The engine doesn't need to reach operating temperature before you drive it, but it shouldn't be -40° either. I don't care what oil is in it, that will be very thick and slow in those temperatures, thus adding to the issue.

Furthermore, I tend to use my remote start when it is cold. In addition to warming up the cabin, it ensures my engine is at least warmer than ambient temp when I take off. Usually, my temperature gauge isn't off the bottom yet, but it is warm enough I can feel heat coming through the vents. In addition, you're going to use more fuel when it is cold whether you're warming it up or just heading out without it. The best way I can showcase this is with my trip MPG meter. When I use my remote start, the truck shuts off and I have to restart it, which will reset my trip MPG. I will often find the reading to be 2-3 MPG higher at the end of said trip vs the same trip when I just leave without any warmup. The ECU adds extra fuel to help with the warmup and air-fuel mixture at those temperatures and it is also affected by engine temp when you start up.

Anyway, I'm going on a bit of a tangent. I've attached a short video from a few years ago when I started my GMC Canyon in -24°F (-31°F). Under normal temperatures, the exhaust did not look like this. This is what I suspect you're seeing and if so, it's not as bad of an issue as some of the suggestions on here have noted it could be.

Edit: apparently this does not support .MP4 attachments so I had to settle for a screenshot.

 

an engine burning fuel does not produce blue smoke, even when more is added to the combustion process. If this was the case, all engines would puff blue on start up. In cold temps, even -5/-10 C, the water moisture in exhaust condenses thus turning the white color. At extreme temps, -35/-40 the exhaust is much more visible. Trust me, living in north Canada I see it every winter, same thing as your breath when it's cold out. But the exhaust is white, NOT blue and it dispersers' into the air much quicker than the thick blue smoke like when an engine is burning oil or whatever else.

The photo of your exhaust is just that, exhaust being vented in cold air. Above freezing and it becomes invisible.

Anyway, thanks for the input.

 

@RedWings44 forget it dude, this guy is stubborn. I understand what you’re trying to tell him and I agree with you.

Its not like trying to warm up your car/truck costs you anything - so I’d try it OP - and not just for 30 seconds to a minute

@CanCurt1970
Think about it, how hot metal expands. Ever got out a stuck bolt using heat?

You’re in -40° weather. Let the vehicle warm up for a bit longer (it’s not gonna cost you nothing but trying) and let those cold ass seals, and rings, and everything else warm up and create the tight tolerances it’s intended to be at while driving. You might be losing your mind over something so simple

 

It's -40 for ever dude! The vehicle was still puffing blue when it was a mild +4 C just last week. Care to explain that one?

 

and can you also explain why, after driving it for two or more hours; there is a big puff of blue on acceleration on the highway sometimes. For sure the "cold ass seals, and rings, and everything else" are warmed up and in the "tight" tolerances you speak of.

Do you really think when an engine sits over night that the seals/piston rings all contract so there is a gap?! No, they stay sealed or else oil/fluid would be leaking everywhere!

 

Your valve seals prolly took a shit. Just like your attitude. Have fun dude

 

I understand that. Just trying to help and offer suggestions to consider before automatically thinking the engine is on its way out. It could also be that you're burning oil while the rings haven't sealed yet or that you've damaged something doing exactly what we have just been talking about. Could be PCV. But the problem is not always worst case scenario.