Home Improvement Today?

Assuming I'm following along correctly, is this about right?



If so, can you go this route?

 

Only thing you can do is run the long run first tight to the wall. Then run the short side of the L tight to the wall. They'll be a gap at the front side of the cabinet. That'll need a filler

 

Thanks for confirming my plan. I will have a piece of filler leftover from a rip on another section. I could rip a small wedge shaped filler for that one transaction between the corner cabinet and the one to the left. Or run it straight to see how bad the gap is along the back wall on the cabinet to the left. Both are doable.

Thank you!

 

The top measurement is 4' not 4' 13/16". So from the 3' mark to the 4' mark, it measures 5' 1".

 

Is there a backsplash going on? If there is, you can cheat it out the width of whatever the backsplash material is. If not you got to run it tight to the wall fill the front side. Sometimes you got to do a combo of both.

 

I'm not sure what my customer has planned for countertops/backsplashes.

I definitely think one will be needed to hide all these variations.

 

is countertop going to be laminate or something else ?

 

See above.

 

I love when you're almost finished and then you screw it up...

Ceiling was painted, walls cut in and on the last coat bumped the ceiling with the roller.

 

Here's the corner in question.


And the opposite corner is worse, but I can make up for it with the filler strip on the left side of the 24" pantry cabinet. The 18" Pantry cabinet will go just to the right of the entry door.

 

That is the way I do it...

 

Dining room ready for grout.

 

Yea and as luck would have it I already cleaned out my brush with that paint on it. I have a couple throw away chip brushes I got for the Shellac to freshen up the wood trim, so I guess I'll sacrifice one for that quick touch up...

 

missed your post

 

@Sig45 I would gang all your cabinets together and see how they fit in the corner before screwing them to the wall , sometimes a short 3/4/5 can be deceiving with drywall build ups etc , you may be able to shim a bit on either end of your L

 

That was my plan for that reason and to mark a line where the long wedge shim needs to land along the front of the toe kick. Another will be along the wall. I want to glue/screw them to the subfloor. Have to move them in & out of place a couple times, but it is what it is given the situation. The end cabinet on the long leg is exposed where the dining room is. Would like that as close to the wall as possible. I'm hoping that run will be fairly easy to shift around a little as needed.

 

denatured alcohol on a rag will clean that ceiling paint up, but it'll screw with the sheen too so

 

can you get planted gables in matching finish ? That could solve any issue with hiding a shim gap from the walls

 

Yea, I'll probably just touch it up with a brush real quick, I don't need to mess with the sheen as it's an eggshell on the ceiling as well. I bought a gallon of flat for the ceiling in what I thought was a white shade, but turned out to be more of an antique white. It didn't look right at all and had the same tone as the "Winston 100's" smokers color that was previously there. Not wanting to run to the store to get a different color, I had an eggshell in a pretty much all white left over. I don't really notice it, but would not rather have sheen differences.

I do know that acetone will clean up the oil base primer splatters. That primer splattered something fierce no matter how careful I was. Had to take some acetone on a rag to clean up the wood trim and floors.