Best place to purchase deckplate mod?

that pretty much defeated the point of doing it

if water still get's in, sure it may not "mist" up onto the filter but it will still collect at the bottom getting the filter wet

for protection, sure it works, but you've taken away 95% of the function of the deck plate


maybe drill 100 1/4" holes to still allows the air through but it would still stop any major rocks (not like any are going to get up there anyways)

 

I disagree. By the opening facing forward you are pressurizing the filter box as your drive forward. The baffle is not reducing the area of the opening. The area around the perimiter of the baffle exceeds the area of the 4" opening.
Please explain to me how this is eliminating the advantage of the mod?
The box is still getting ram air through a 4" opening. There is no restriction and the engine does not have to pull air in, as it does with the stock induction system.

 

just drill a hole and instead of a deckplate just buy a 4" dollar plug at any plumbing supply store, practically the same thing only now you dont have to worry about a sealant or screwing it or anything and it still water tight

 

These two links are really good. The dollar plumbing plug seems like it'd do the trick too. I like how slick the deck plate looks though. Kinda takes car of the whole deal when you go to sell it and it looks hacked into. This looks pretty slick. Love the idea of the mod. Maybe tomarrow I'll get to it. I will search it, but it makes me curious as to how mpg's are effected.. wish the guy dyno'd the prodry too.

 

^Awesome link there...I now what I'm doing Thursday morning lol

 

Good luck with Bass Pro. I looked there (the main Bass Pro in Springfield) and they didn't have any. Got mine for six something on Amazon.

You can just cut a hole in the box for the same effect. Obviously, you won't be able to seal the hole, but I drove all spring, summer, fall and winter through all sorts of filth and haven't had problem. A dremmel will cut through the (thick) plastic just fine.

 

BANG!!

 

I went to my local boat repair shop and the guy ordered the piece in for me. $10

 

Any West Marine Store stocks them.

 

One point of the DP mod is that the cap screws in for wet conditions. You close it when it is wet, and have to deal with the drastic drop in HP that results (wha, 4hp?) until it stops raining/you are back on paved road. You would do the same in very dusty conditions.

Some of the many links to this mod also show a mesh screen sandwiched between the plate and the box to catch debris before it enters the box.

Reducing flow restrictions directly into the intake is the main point. It seems the baffle you have created here would actually just divert more air over to the existing elbow opening in the fender, where it will happily exit the truck and go on its merry way. It will also cause airflow turbulence right in front of the filter. When air flows over a sharp, vertical object like that, it creates a backflow vortex behind the object. The fence in your yard does the same thing on a windy day. So do large semi trailers--try drafting behind one to improve your mileage (and piss of the driver and possibly die a fiery death). And have you ever seen garbage floating around behind the cab of a pickup on the highway? Same thing. The box won't be pressurized unless you block off the old elbow, which for all I know you have done , and which has also been debated as not ideal. Basically, let the throttle take in all the unobstructed air it wants, and uneeded air can still exit through the original elbow and not effect MAF/fuel issues. Or something like that.

For ~4 hp.

 

Ok, I am very familiar with airflow and hydrodynamics, I have been a pilot for over22 years and in the marine industry for about the same time. As far as reinstalling the the port for rainy weather or off road driving, not going to happen. Too much bullshit, I will plug it if I'm driving in rivers and streams. As far as day to day driving, my baffle will deflect stones that could damage or penetrate the filter, it will also prevent rain or water soaked roads from saturating the filter therefore reducing the filters ability to breath. The baffle is closed toward the elbow, open on the top, bottom and inboard side, it is attached in a way that if there was enough air pressure it can move creating a larger opening. Elbow still functional, remember airflow will follow the path of least resistance. It has many options with my baffle. As far as the eddy created by air flow passing around it, yes, there may be a small negative pressure area behind the baffle but that is negligable consiidering the surface area of the filter, the area of the airbox openings and the lack of area of the intake tube. You can still only fit 5 lbs in a 5 lb bag, without a blower. The amount of air provided to the intake greatly exceeds the amount of air the intake can pass, so you are limited by the size if the air intake. So, if you can supply a quantity of airflow greater than the amount of airflow the intake/engine can process, any eddying is a nonissue. We are talking about a very small increase in hp, so, if you have the means and equipment to measure the deck plate mod with my baffle and without, the amount of differance would be that of a fart in a hurricane!!! But have a stone penetrate your air filter and find its way to a cylinder, your screwed. Or damage your filter enough to let sand pass, again your engine will be on its way out. At 210,000 miles, I want filtered air. This truck is going to surpass 500,000 mles without a rebuild! And it won't without properly filtered air. I rest my case.