Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Hm.

I’m thinking more like if I need to do a quick maneuver at 65+. Or let’s say I’m going downhill 65-70 in a sharp turn and need to brake hard quick. Not that these situations are common, but there are a lot of morons on the road.

I’m usually at max payload when I travel, so there is that too.

 

I mean.. sure, it would help I guess. I tossed mine 10+ years ago and havent even once thought.. "man.. I wish I had my sway bar for ....". just my 2 cents. My truck is over GVWR.. so I know how it goes. I've beefed up everything I can so far to help combat (gusseting, bracing, hangers, custom leaf pack, wilwood bbk, etc). I still feel the truck sway and move occasionally, but that's my doing with building the truck up, Just gotta know the limits and stay within them.

 

Honestly if you are at max payload, going down hill at 65-70 in a sharp turn and brake hard, sway bar or not that’s probably not going to end well.

With that said I took mine off long ago as well and drive canyons everyday with a heavy truck and haven’t really ever ran into an issue. I also have fairly soft suspension.

There’s an easy test you can do. Pull it off and drive around. Hit a canyon. Some turns, etc. see if you like it or not. It’s maybe. 20-30 minute job to remove. Hell, remove the ends and tie them up to test it. That’s even less work.

 

Its actually not bad at all, you have to take some tight corners pretty fast to induce enough roll to make you pucker. In those cases you slow down a bit, most highways and interstates will never see it, theres only a few mountain roads here that I'm like ok this stretch will be slow.

 

this for sure. I found one of those roads and the limits in Oregon coming back from picking up our Camper. Traction control kicked in, but I also had enough roll for the stainless brake lines on my BBK to rub the tires' sidewall lugs. moved them out of the way since then..

 

Still debating this...
Remove sway bar or add a .25-.5" high quality hub centric spacer to get my tire to clear my sway bar? I need to remove my sway bar and measure the clearance needed. I can't seem to get to motorsport-tech.com right now, hopefully they're still around.
Seriously heavy truck with a couple hundred pounds of weight from racks and RTT, above CG, make me a bit leery about sway bar removal.

 

I threw my sway bar away like 10 years ago. My truck weighs ~6600lbs. You adapt and learn.

 

what's a sway bar

 

Remove it, it's one of the best free mods.
I cut mine up and turned it into a gate hinge.
Gate will still be there a 100 years from now.
Good luck with your truck.

 

Yeah and it looks like Motorsport-tech might be gone. Phone doesn't go through either.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgKbUTQJy8

 

Since I don’t take my truck to the track or drive aggressively around town, I think of a sway bar as a safety device that will help me control the truck in an emergency situation where I am forced to turn very sharply at high speed. This outweighs the minor disadvantages of the sway bar in my mind. Albeit, I’ve never removed mine and tested the difference.

 

Sway bar =

 

I feel like if you get into a situation where you are swerving hard enough to flip over a sway bar isn’t going to make a huge impact on what speed you can safely swerve.

Side note I drive a canyon everyday, at speed, with a heavy truck and soft suspension and I don’t mind it. I have one long sweeper that banked I can but fast enough my traction control light turns on due to the sway.

 

Was able to find a local shop to do a Body mount relocation, pinch weld and viper cut for around 600 with parts and labor included to be able to fit 315 75 16 Is that a fair price

 

Seems like a good price to me

 

Another vote to toss the sway bar. I resisted doing so for a long time as I occasionally drive fast on winding mountain passes, but I'm so glad I finally did it. The suspension is SO much better off road and the effect on road is minimal. There's a slight increase in body roll, but it's not bad at all. Even with my 35s, soft suspension and tall ride height, it never feels like the truck is getting away from me on corners at speed.

 

Think I want to play with my alignment some more before we take off to KOH.. I'm currently running Taco Tabs and have the rears set for max clearance (maxed outboard) and the fronts at neutral. It's been pretty good actually.. but I occasionally slightly rub on the firewall wheeling during certain situations. Wondering if that little extra positive caster I could get from adjusting the front tabs to max inboard would do the trick. I am curious how much it will change camber though, since I'm already at -.4 driver and 0 passenger. I'll have to do my adjustments, rough set Toe, then take it in to get it really aligned and see what it's at.

 

Looking at either 0.5" or 0.75" Bora spacers to get 0 offset 17x8.5 wheels to work with 35s. 0.5" require swapping out wheel studs for extended length (https://www.wheeladapter.com/product/extended-wheel-studs-for-toyotas) and the spacer just slides on top of the new studs before the wheels (https://www.ebay.com/itm/264548447876) 0.75" spacers are the standard kind (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254435763901) and looks like the Method bead grips have some pockets for the excess stud length to fit. Any difference in safety between these two styles of spacers from Bora? I think the 0.5" style would make maintenance and suspension work easier in the future so leaning in that direction.

 

Maybe one of you guys will be able to help me out.

I’ve got 16x8 0 offset 4.5 backspacing.
Have 315/75/16 BFG AT KO2s.
Caster is at 3.4 R and 3.7 L.

I have to throw a spacer on the front (1.25”) to not rub my TC upper arm / spindle but now I’m rubbing hard on the fire all at full lock.

I want to get rid of the spacer but not sure what offset/bs to go with to get rid of it. Picture of the space now with the spacer on.

I was looking at the SCS BR6 16x8 -12 4BS but not sure if that will work?

anyone have some input?