Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

ugggghhh.. I actually dropped and cracked that cluster while templating it for my pro dash. If you can swap the clear cover, which, im sure you can its still fine. In 2 weeks, im clearing out the shop and ill let you know what has to go. Ill just send you a little box of shit.

 

Bah I wanted it for the clear cover Mine has been cracked and faded from years of abuse. All good my dude!

 

Figures. Sorry man. I grabbed it off shelf and my motor functions went blank and it fell right on the pallet jack and cracked right down the middle. My junk yard guy owes me a favor, next time im there ill look for some clean ones.

 

Seriously don't sweat it! Stoked to see your rig rolling out soon. We gotta get a run to Rausch sometime in the spring.

 

For sure!

 

It appears my ADD tube may have suffered the same fate today. To get the snapped stub out even with an ARB you can reach through the front with a punch or similar to poke it out?

Thank you for documenting this so thoroughly.

Good timing since I have a manual hub tube arriving soon and I will probably see how long that lasts. Don’t have much hope since I was not bumping an obstacle when it broke just locked up against a ledge.

 

Were you potentially bound up just trying to get the front up or was the front already up and light? I have snapped a CV bound up with a rock stuck on 3 sides of the tire before with no bumping, just trying to crawl through it. But yeah I have seen people weld a rod to it to try to pull it out, but I really think the easiest method is popping it out from the other side with a punch. And yeah I had the ARB at this point so you'll be good

I actually have a manual hub diff sitting in the garage to do the same. The plan is to take the shaft out and get it heat/cryo treated and rebuild with new bearings and seals. Just been low on my list lol. I always theorized it would be a stronger setup though because it had less chance of deflection.

That one is a nice little trophy now.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Changed gears from the valve covers because I ended up diving into painting them. Wanted to give them some extra time to cure before I swapped the seals/handled it.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Painted with blue metalcast, my go to for specialized blue paint. Other examples:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_4640 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_4634 by Michael Halat, on Flickr
IMG_5382 by Michael Halat, on Flickr

If you can't tell I am a fan of the paint.

I replaced the lower heims on the coilovers with SS bearings.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Very interested to see how this new setup from @TMFF works. It basically uses o-rings to hopefully keep salt and grit out of the heims.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

My shop press was buried in diffs and t cases so I used a ball joint press which was the perfect size.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Besides them being worn, the main reason I got new misalignments is to push the coilover further from the CV's and hopefully stop tearing CV boots from hitting the coilover like this one I also replaced during all this:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Almost all my tears happen like this, basically the cv boot clamp hits the coilover and stops the boot from rotating while the cv is rotating and completely cleanly tears it. I found it twisted up one time but not fully torn and that's what made me figure it out. Also seen gouges in the coilover springs too.

Had the foreman pop in the other day to check on my work:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Now that the covers were cured I moved onto replacing these tube gaskets. They were annoying until I figured out how to do it.

This thread @ramonortiz55 was able to pop them out cleanly from the top:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ping-out-valve-cover-gaskets-pictures.469596/

But mine were so old and hardend that only the one inner ring pops off leaving the other half of the seal in the cover still. So then I followed Timmy's video but I found that you really need to deform the seals at at least 3 points before you can attempt to pull the seal out.

This was the only one I did at 4 points, the rest I did at 3 points and had no issues:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

After that I took my frozen seals and went to drive them in. The issue is I had no 12 pt socket big enough the tap them in with. I found a piece of 1 1/4" PVC and chamfered the inner part out to make room for the inner ring with a wire brush on a drill. It worked perfectly.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Now with all seals replaced it is ready to go back in.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I'll probably jump back to suspension maintenance until I can get at least 3 consecutive hours in the garage (typically I can only work an hour to an hour and a half at time because #dadlife) to actually do the FIPG and seal replacement to make sure I can do it all at once.

 

Bound up trying to climb for sure. I was just hoping the stub shaft would be strong enough to hold the torque of crawling. Front bumper/ skid was sliding the front up on the ledge. Driver tire was not touching anything. I crept into the ledge then turned driver and pushed myself passenger when I did. I think that sat my whole driver sidewall on a rock and really helped bind it along with being under the ledge with a 35 tire in a 40 sized hole.

 

yup that bound up shit is always a bitch.

I figured that was the case. This was that bound up cv situation that I dealt with. Passenger side was grabbed on 3 sides with a rock, and the trucks weight is on the slider on the passenger side too. Asking a lot of the cv there lol

 

Those O-ring seals from Tim for the lower shock spherical bearings definitely work to keep debris and crap out of the bearings. I am hopeful they will extend the bearing life in the process.

I am at 20K on a set of FKS 10T-F1 bearings (no SS). I did an inspection at 15K and they were still very tight, almost as tight when new, and were spotless.

 

Good to hear from someone who's had them a while now!

Things got stagnant because work was a shit show last week. Been chipping away at other shit like the coilover reinstall, and AC idler swap (whole new OEM assembly now). The new coilover misalignments does give me decent space, we'll see if it is enough.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Finally picked up Saturday night with the installation of the valve covers and gaskets, and building it all up from there. Started doing all the vacuum hose replacements and checking electrical connections that I did not touch but may have gotten bumped (two temp sensors come to mind).

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Yesterday I worked on fuel with the installation of the new reman Denso's from Motor West Performance, and the new FPR. The new injectors were kind of a bitch to install because of the new o-rings. I installed it via how Timmy says you should in the FSM (Injectors on rails then all three injectors on motor at once) but failed the first time I tried. Basically you need to lube the orings with gas, try to seat it, back it out, lube again, try to seat, back out rinse and repeat. I did this for all the injectors on the motor separately, then for the injectors into the rails, and then when I did final assembly of the rails with injectors on them to the motor it was basically constant pressure on the fuel rail with one hand as I slightly twisted the injectors into place. In the end it doesn't seem like I pinched any o-rings (I hope).

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Also a crows foot is probably the only way I can see getting an accurate torque on the rail banjo bolts.

Hopefully all that info helps you @ToyRyd04 ^ especially since Timmy's video made it seem like they would just "pop" into place with just a bunch of force.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

This morning I got the coils and wires in.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Board is looking good:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Bringing this list up to start crossing shit off and making sure I don't forget anything.

Starting at the motor:
Replacing valve cover gaskets, half moons, and cam seals, and plug seals.
Replacing injectors
Replacing FPR
Replacing fuel line under the plenum
Replacing the coolant hoses under the plenum
Replacing 3 coils and new wires
Replacing the spark plugs
Replacing pcv valve
Replacing all vacuum lines with the silicone kit I have had for 3+ years now
Clean MAF
Clean throttle body
Clean plenums

Outside of that at the motor:
Replacing the AC idler AGAIN. Got an OEM unit this time.

Bang and smash the skids for reinstallation. (Going to start planning my tube skid concept too)
Swap the fluid in the front diff with all the pines trips lately.

Suspension:
Grease UCA's and upper ball joint.
Check tolerances at LBJ's
Replace misalignments on the lower coilover mounts to push them further from the CV's
Replace the drivers side CV with the boot that's been torn since Takeover in July. - Still need to get my passenger shock back from my buddy.
Reboot and rebuild the removed CV.

Misc:
Figure out why the reverse lights have been intermittent. Going to start at the switch on the case since I just had that off when the transmission was out. Then check under the seat since I tapped into that for the reverse cam not to long ago.
Rotate tires
Touch up armor
Touch up wheel paint
Swap clutch spring and bushings

Fluid film the frame after painting is done.

 

Torqueing with a crows foot did you recalculate the torque? As shown it you are adding leverage. Rather than re-calculating I orient the crows foot 90° to the wrench (either 3:00 or 9:00 position) this keeps the leverage the same.

 

I thought keeping the crows foot straight with the wrench keeps the torque the same?

Clearly Timmy steered me wrong in his vid ha

https://www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

Good to know. Based on quick math (without shit in front of me) I could have over torqued by 2-3 ft lbs

 

Probably within an acceptable range, but depending on materials it can be a big deal, just something to be aware of. I've seen some decent diagrams and calcs for different angles. At my last 2 jobs we had torque analyzers to verify your wrench with before performing a task. It is really eye opening how things like how you are holding the wrench, or rate and how smooth you apply the torque can change how the tool reacts. Aside from verifying the tool the analyzer worked as a training aid for techs (and engineers for that matter) who never realized how much their input could influence the actual applied torque.

 

Slow progress but still progress. I am just wrapping shit up and need to get the airbox and cruise control back in.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I got the upper and lower plenums back on and started replacing hoses. I also replaced this vacuum valve which ended up being more annoying than necessary.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

This part is discontinued and only the part number for the one where the charcoal canister is on the gas tank exists now. So I took the bracket from the old one and retrofitted it to the new one.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I also had to fix the nut insert that was in the plastic since the bolt fused to the insert and needed to be cut off.

From there I carefully cleaned the TOB and IAC.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I also got my shock back from Andrew, thankfully no internal damage and he didn't even need to use the seal kit yet.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

The upper hose that goes into the coilover broke loose and I lost almost all my oil. Glad we caught it in time.

Oh and this finally happened:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

So literally the next day I placed my order for NWF.

 

Welcome to the triple stick club!

 

Save the welcome when it's actually installed which won't be for a while. Ideally when I am ready for this I will also be ready to put my manual front diff tube on which I hope to have the shaft cryogenically treated. Also will be doing mass loaded vinyl and sound proofing at the same time. Undecided whether I will 1" BL or not yet though.


Bringing this list up to start crossing shit off and making sure I don't forget anything.

Starting at the motor:
Replacing valve cover gaskets, half moons, and cam seals, and plug seals.
Replacing injectors
Replacing FPR
Replacing fuel line under the plenum
Replacing the coolant hoses under the plenum
Replacing 3 coils and new wires
Replacing the spark plugs
Replacing pcv valve
Replacing all vacuum lines with the silicone kit I have had for 3+ years now
Clean MAF
Clean throttle body
Clean plenums

Outside of that at the motor:
Replacing the AC idler AGAIN. Got an OEM unit this time.

Bang and smash the skids for reinstallation. (Going to start planning my tube skid concept too)
Swap the fluid in the front diff with all the pines trips lately.

Suspension:
Grease UCA's and upper ball joint.
Check tolerances at LBJ's
Replace misalignments on the lower coilover mounts to push them further from the CV's
Replace the drivers side CV with the boot that's been torn since Takeover in July. - Still need to get my passenger shock back from my buddy.
Reboot and rebuild the removed CV.

Misc:
Figure out why the reverse lights have been intermittent. Going to start at the switch on the case since I just had that off when the transmission was out. Then check under the seat since I tapped into that for the reverse cam not to long ago.
Rotate tires
Touch up armor
Touch up wheel paint
Swap clutch spring and bushings

Fluid film the frame after painting is done.

Well she lives.

https://youtube.com/shorts/GtLAeoTGnyw?feature=share

Going to swap the diff fluid and get the tires on tomorrow. Want to do an oil change just in case too.

Still need to torque the UCA's at ride height and grease the Delta's too.

 

Continued assessing and wrapping things up.

Motor is buttoned up, replaced the last two hoses this morning:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

The last final test to see how I did is to back it out of the garage, let the cleaners burn off and hope it doesn't burn down.

So since the motor was good, I went to finishing other stuff. Rotated the tires for probably the second time in 50k miles. Not exactly great at keeping up with that. Also got my passenger shock installed again after most of the oil leaked out. A local guy Andrew rebuilt them for me, awesome having a guy who is local who can do this stuff. He used to work on Erik Miller's Ultra 4 car.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

It was interesting to see ADS's top out protection and he said he is a new fan of ADS based on the internals he saw.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Of course I leaked a little oil trying to orient the resi but not enough to be concerning.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Speaking of Ultra 4, not much better than enjoying a smoke in the garage watching it, cleaning up the constant mess.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

A couple other misc things I did, used this shit to have a tighter seal where the airbox connects to the fender, hoping it makes it as water tight as possible while still being removable:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Extended the front diff breather with a lawn mower filter to give extra capacity since it spews oil on long drives:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Speaking of the front diff, it was a little glittery...

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Hoping its potentially a piece of the stub shaft from an earlier breakage that just never fully made its way out and got mashed up along the way? I never felt like anything broke in there (aside from that stub forever ago) but I am not easy on the front diff either.

Oh and I fixed my intermittent reverse light issue.

I thought I fucked the wiring tapping it under the seat until I found this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhVIiXD1PsY

Tried his trick and what do you know, def the switch.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

@ToyRyd04 told me to remove it and just push it in a bunch, and it surprisingly fixed it. No new switch, easy solve.

Should be backing it out on Wednesday.

 

Hate to be the bearer of bad news.....but I think your locker locker is on the way out.
Your front differential symptoms were exactly what I was experiencing. I sent mine in to ECGS for warranty work. The O-ring (#12) wore down and seal housing (#11) dug a groove into the flange cap (#13).

No real explanation as to why, with only a hypothesis that the carrier preload was off from the factory. I'm also hard on my locker so could be due to that too I guess.



I was running it like how yours currently is for a while, until it got to a point where it would piss gear oil out the breather a couple minutes after having the locker on. Otherwise it randomly spewed on long drives.
Just like you, I put

$21 Edelbrock 8157 Street Fuel Filter 1 1/8 in. Dia. 3/8 in. Inlet/Outlet 3 in. Length Black Aluminum Street Fuel Filter

this in line without the filter element to try and help, but it would still happen.
When I drained the oil to send it in, it had a good amount of glitter.