Rear E-locker to Air Locker.

Hey All,

Looked around and didn't find much info on swapping from a rear OEM e locker to ARB air locker. I've got a 2016 off road with a manual trans. ARB's website states the rd232 fits, however when I ordered from ECGS they said the rd232 doesn't work with out a housing change. Have any of you ever done this or have a link with good info.

Thanks!

 

2016-23 REAR 8.0” DIA. RG, ALL AUTOS EXCLUDING OE LOCKER EQUIPPED 33 (1.31”) 30 ALL RD132 8.9” DIA. RG, ALL MANUALS & ALL OE LOCKER EQUIPPED 34.8 (1.37”) 32 ALL RD232 1 2 Locker suits open differentials only, and will not replace the factory e-locker unless the housing and 3rd member are replaced with open end diffs. Factory R&P may use either RD111 or

$1,114 RD121 Air Locking Differential

RD121 depending on ratio. For Aftermarket R&P, consult your gear supplier to assure proper fitment

 

I just put a RD232 into the rear axle of my TRD Sport. Although my Sport has the open 8.75" diff unit, the ARB installation sheet that comes with the 232 does show examples of the locker being installed into an E-Locker housing and mentions nothing about needing another housing (the OEM electrical connector was in view on it too)... So unless ECGS knows something ARB doesn't (or forgot to print), the 232 should fit.

Also FWIW, I do not know why ARB calls it an 8.9" where most other references show the axle as an 8.75" (which correlates with my own measurement as well). No issues with fitment though.

What is wrong with your E-locker?

 

Maybe he’s Amish?

 

Only thing I can imagine is the rear locker is a pain in the ass to turn on sometimes. Where the ARB isn’t.

 

The more you use it, the easier it engages.

 

I’m sure once you learn the trick but every time I use it it’s a backing up/going forward/waiting/repeat game.

 

FWIW in my extended armchair (internet) research on the topic, Harrop E-lockers seem to have a reputation for being more reliable than ARB air-lockers. Slightly simpler to install & maintain as well, as the Harrops don't need a source of compressed air.

I would call up or email ECGS and ask their opinions & for them to help you verify any part-number / sizing compatibility.

 

Being a stick shift truck stalling on a obstacle happens, when this occurs the e-locker shuts off. Then it can be a pain to get back engaged, where rolling back and forth is not a option. It's happened a couple times where a mistake could of been a semi-dangerous situation. If you could post or send me a pic of the directions that would be great. In the meantime I'll look for them posted online.

 

Same here, I've even spent countless lunch breaks turning it on and off. Even still its tricky.

 

The 3rd gen e-locker is an improved version of the old motor and gear engaged e-locker of previous gen tacomas. They are very close in design to the Harrop e-locker and engage with electromagnets.

Personally I think you are crazy to want to swap. If you are a hardcore enough wheeler to need it then you probably want to swap complete axle assemblies to something stronger. Either way, you will need to change housings to change the the locker. The toyota e-locker is specific to the housing, and there is no commercial reason to have an aftermarket option.

You are nuts.

 

Right there with you. The most hardcore Tacoma guy I know has a 6sp 3rd gen, and basically every aftermarket modification done to his truck, and he still has the OEM e-locker.

 

My main gripe with the oem e locker is it turning off after the truck stalls. I would not consider my self a hardcore wheeler, but the midwest off roading is different then out west. A fairly simple muddy hill climb could easily send you into a tree or off the side. For the cost, during a regear, the peace of mind of having a locker be on when you tell it to makes sense to me.

 

If this is the root of the problem, then I think you need an underdrive. I also wheel a 6mt and my solution is dual cases. I had them on my last '94 pickup and they were stellar. I am about to receive one from NWF.
https://northwestfab.com/products/ecocrawler

You need to pull the transfercase, partially disassemble, install NWF parts, modify the shift tunnel a bit to put in the shifter, then modify driveshaft lengths. But then you get a much much lower crawl ratio.

here is a whole thread about it.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-crawl-box-available.717218/

 

That may be something I do further along, but for now let's get back to the main question. Has anyone actually installed the rd232 in a oem locker housing?

 

I believe that the RD132 is for the elocker housing but I would call before you order to confirm that.

If you are dead set on wanting to switch to an ARB will probably make more money selling the entire elocker axle for a non-elocker plus cash rather than putting an ARB in the elocker housing. Just make sure that the gear ratio matches your front unless you are regearing at the same time.

 

I know this isn't specific to your question, but I found adding a front camera to be extremely helpful wheeling with the 6MT. I went from killing my truck a dozen times in Moab to killing it once or twice the following year after I added a camera. Makes it much easier to time the throttle when your tires are about to hit an obstacle/ledge before the engine lugs.

I wasn't aware that the e-locker disengages when stalling, the few times I've used it, I didn't stall. Good to know.

 

I hear you OP.
I was pretty sure I wanted an ARB and even ordered one (for my Tundra rather than my Tacoma but same basic decision)
After reading this and discussing a bit, I decided Eaton or torsen LSD and settled on LSD for road manners.

If I do a locker in my 2005 it’ll be the Eaton. And if I do a front locker in my 2016, Eaton as well.

For the value, might you consider an Eaton up front? I assume that would hold lock when you stall and then you’d have two lockers, front and rear.

I have arb twins x 2 (neither installed yet) and an air tank so design-wise I thought an air locker would be best but I’m not convinced the quality is there with the product.

 

Yes, maybe, but ecgs requires core in return. It's probably hard to get the core cost out of a used axle assembly.

ARB RD232 install instructions show e-locker housing.
http://www.offroad-obchod.cz/data/a/rd232-arb-uzaverka-montazni-navod.pdf

 

The trick is to drive in an arc to get axles lined up. Just going straight forward or backwards doesn't change anything that may be misaligned in the locker.

But like I said, that was only necessary the first 6 or so times for me and it engages with little drama now.