Bump Stop Recommendations

This is my thoughts exactly. Been planning a GM bumpstop for awhile as I simply cant justify spending 2-300 bucks on a molded piece of form or rubber. The math checks out, and often people dont do the math you have done which hurts them by either not being able to utilize full shock travel or trying to use too much lol. I did the math and as such i ended up with a 5125 rear shock with OME medium's so i could utilize full up travel of the shock with stock bumpstops and get more droop as well.

 

Been running superbumps for a year, work well. Just switched to hydro bumps in the rear, alot nicer as they dont buck the rear end up like the rubber bumps did and they have a guaranteed stop, where as the superbumps would either A, compress more than I wanted or B, they would actually just fold under flex and let my shock bottom out.

 

How do hydros sound when they contact the plate ? I was told they could be loud for daily rough roads. But I've never seen or heard videos of hydros. I run super bumps my self and was planning on those locked offroad hydros

 

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/accutune-offroad-u-bolt-flip-kit-05-toyota-tacoma/

 

Been seeing these around an wanting to get some input on them, seems to be the most budget friendly hydro bump option I've found. Comes complete with striker plate and u-bolt flip kit an comes in less than what most companies sell the bump stops alone for.

https://midatlanticoffroading.com/p...n®-rear-hydraulic-bump-stops-05-toyota-tacoma

 

They are pretty dang loud if you don't have enough uptravel before you hit them or your shocks are tuned poorly. Sounds like when you drop a golf ball on hard ground. I was sitting just over stock height with them for awhile so my 2.25" travel hydros were contacting on most anything. Now running 6" of uptravel and better tuned shocks so its rare for me to hit them.

Pretty much the same quality as any other cheaper hydro bump, it'll do for most people just fine. I've been running Dv8 hydro bumps (made for jeeps) and they are probably built in the same factory. Have around 20k miles on mine with lots of bump time

 

can you elaborate on why these are “good”?

 

1. Price and value for money. Price out superbumps or timbrens with u bolts, and you still see the @ARCHIVE bumpstops with flip kit is on top
2. I have owned timbrens in the past and these have as soft as a hit as timbrens but with about 50% of the energy rebound. I am not saying that it can keep up with air bump stops that are worth huge $ but it deadens the hit more then rebounds the hit like an air bump.
3. @ARCHIVE ve lives, eats, and breaths rear suspension. It is their wheelhouse. It's what they know and what they do. Some of their products go through years of rigorous testing before they are released and even then they find a way to improve on almost all of their products after implementation. 4. There are not many companies that have the owner take the time to make sure their products are for you. I can only count on one hand the number of vendors on TW that do that and @ARCHIVE is one of them.

 

I just wedged a couple breast implants between the axle and frame on both sides.

 

And that is why you keep on blowing your axle seals....lol

 

Melted/tore/ejecto seato'd the superbumps up front.

 

Just saw the notification for this, somehow I missed it. haha

I don't remember where I saw the math, but it makes sense to do the math so you can get as much out of your suspension as possible. Many people do suspension mods just assuming a 1 size fits all or just not doing any research at all. Granted I am not the norm, I dig into subjects way deeper than most people care to take the time to. I get it, some people just don't have the time. Also, I'm quite frugal which drives my research into finding the best parts for a cost that I am comfortable with. Could I just spend $4-5k on a fully packaged and proven setup? Sure could. But is the cost to benefit ration going to end up equaling out? For my uses, the 4x higher cost simply won't have 4x better ride quality, longevity or offroad capability.

Just curious if you have installed the OME leafs and 5125's? I have the EL095R (med load) and it rides pretty rough in the rear. I'm not sure if thats the B110 5100's causing that or if the leaf springs are causing the rough ride. It's a little bit better with a load, but still a bit bouncy. I have considered removing a leaf and dropping the 6112's to accomodate the ride hieght difference, but I'm not sure if that would change how it would ride?

 

Yeah I have the same medium EL095R pack with 5125's. It rides like a truck but those shocks provide my desired travel without bottoming issues. I will say, the OME springs are starting to W and are reverse arching ever so slightly in the center.

But hey it still supports the loads i put in the truck (even more so now that I have some SumoSprings 612-40's in the back).

I think its just really hard to make these trucks handle loads without tons of sagging and also ride decent cus unfortunately unlike full size trucks the ass end of these trucks with a fiberglass bed and tin can body there is hardly any weight back there for the suspension to work against unloaded.

 

Hmm, I wonder if the 5125's would be a better fit than the B110 5100's I have now? Which ones did you get?

I would agree with weight of the bed and lack of weight over the rear making it difficult to achieve a decent ride quality in the rear. I will say that when I went from the stock 2015 TRD Sport suspension (only 36k on OEM suspension) to 3rd gen TRD Offroad front shocks/springs and rear shocks that the truck felt a lot more balanced. The rear felt much more planted and less jittery so to speak. It felt as though the spring rate and dampening in the front was paired better with the rear after the swap. Where as the stock TRD Sport set up felt soft up front and stiff in the rear. Kinda like it does now. I'm wondering if its a mismatch of spring rates. The 3rd gen TRD OR has 700lb front springs and the 2nd gens are around 500lb springs. The 6112's only have 600lb springs.

 

I went with

$112 33-230337 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230337 's 15.01" collapsed x 24.38" extended (compared to the b110's @ 16.34" collapsed to 27.28" extended, and stock @ 14.02" collapsed and 22.94 extended)

Bilstein advertises compression and rebound dampening numbers, but unfortunately doesnt for the 5100's so you cant compare via their website - maybe shoot em an email?, Do note you will need to cut down the width of the rubber bushing width and inner sleeve width to fit the lower spring perches.

I am tempted to get a set of the GM bumpstops and mod the SuperSpring bracket to accept them so I can easily swap between the sumo's when im super loaded up, or to the GM bumpstops for day to day.

 

Super bumps up front from Wheeler's, and Archive Garage Option #3 out back.

Not sure if I drive like a pussy, but I can honestly say I've never felt the bump stops. There is definitely contact happening based on wear marks, but they must be soft enough that I don't feel them.

 

Overall thoughts on the archive garage bump stops? I’m trying to figure if I wanna go archive or summospeings.

 

if you are looking for more off-road and general day to day driving, go with the archive garage. If you are only really going to be looking for towing, go with the sumo Springs. The sumo Springs are going to give you much more of a harsher hit so they are a lot more for support rather than for comfort.

 

AG Option 3 really is nice. I hit rear bumps a fair amount with how I drive off road and before it felt as though I'd compressed my damn spine. I have yet to notice it making contact, but I know it is because everything is dirty and that spot of the frame is nice and clean from the bump. Haha

 

I have the same experience with Archive Garage Option #3 bump stops. Never feel them hit but they are for sure contacting. I used to have super bumps in the rear and felt those all the time.