Need guidance with new truck - multiple issues

Just picked up a 1998 4Runner. 3.4 v6, auto, 4wd with rear locker 140k. I should add as background that I also have a 2013 ACLB 4wd manual, TRD OR with locker that I do my own work on. Not a mechanic but been able to do my own work on my own cars, including an e92 bmw.

On the drive home, drive belt started screaming bloody murder. I pulled over and it stopped so I just drove home. Upon inspection it seemed like the idler pulley for the belt that drives the AC was wobbly, so I planned to change it this weekend. Today on a short drive, the belt snapped. Pulley for the compressor can’t be turned by hand so I figured I need a new compressor.

drove the 4Runner tonight just on my street without the belt to confirm that the pulley problem/screeching was just due to the Compressor and I could drive it in the mean time just with no AC. Let it idle for a few minutes. As soon as I started to drive it began to overheat. Not bad but the needle was real close to the red zone so I drove the 100 yards home and shut let it idle for about 10 seconds with heater on full blast. I got scared it was gonna over heat so I shut it off but left the heater running. As soon as I shut it off it hissed and sent a small amount of steam out of either the radiator cap or coolant resivoir. Gauge quickly went back to the middle. Heater was blowing hot air. So not the core?

where do I begin? Fan was running when it was idling. Coolant in the resivoir is not low. I drove it 60 miles yesterday and no problems. This morning on a short drive it went little over operating temp but then leveled out. I’d like to hope it’s just the radiator cap or even thermostat is getting sticky. Radiator looks new also.

Order of operations to diagnose?
Thank you.

It’s a really nice runner so I’d like to get this straightened out so I can get to the suspension, brake, steering maintenance I had originally planned..

 

This is gonna cost a kenichi pork chop plate for advice hawaiian.

Are you measuring the temp with a dummy gauge (the one in the dash) or with a scan tool of some sort?

Hows the coolant, have you had a chance to pressure test the cooling system?

Is the coolant red? are they using toyota or asian coolant?

Also food for thought, the dummy gauge should not be used for accurate testing, if its moving anywhere past the middle of the dummy gauge there is an issue, If you can get a scanner to monitor it while you troubleshoot that would be ideal.

Go look around the radiator if you can see red dried coolant anywhere, should look like hawaiian salt curing on lava rock for consistency, look anywhere there is coolant.

also go lick that faka who sold u the runner.

before you start throwing shit at it pressure test the cooling system.

 

Your overheating problem is a direct result of not having a serpentine belt installed. Without the belt, the water pump does not turn. If the water pump does not turn, the water does not circulate, and it will overheat.

 

Ac belt doesn’t run on the serpentine belt, I would hope he’s running the serpentine belt

 

From interweb pics and diagrams, the A/C compressor appears to be on its own belt. Power steering and alternator also have their own belts that also turn the water pump, so there is a backup if either of those fail.

Might check the back of the radiator for pinhole leaks and any prior repairs -- when the belt snapped, it may have smacked the back of the radiator.

 

I don't really see how the AC belt has any connection with the overheating issue. I'd get the AC stuff sorted out first, then hook up a scanner and keep an eye on the temps.

 

Right on, brah. You ever in hilo I buy you lunch lol.

Ok, I will pressure test and a friend said to block test so ill do that first. If it's the head gasket I have some decisions to make. lol

This faka had green coolant and was super watered down. So I dont even know.

And yes, I was working off the dummy gauge. I will hook up my scanner when I work on it again. But might not be for a week or so cause I ordered the pressure tester and block test kit on Amazon today.

And the faka that I got the runner from.. I been going back and forth in my mind whether or not he knew about these problems. Oh well, you live and learn.

 

Like others have said, I looked at the diagram and assumed the only thing that belt ran was the AC. It's not like the 1GR or 2GR that has an S-belt, but there are three separate drive belts that power various components. If I am wrong about this that'd be great.

 

I live Maui but I was in Hilo a week ago haha.

Please let us know about the test for the cooling system pressure. Make sure to flush all that green shit out and run Toyota or the correct coolant. I would also really look over the system something could be cracked. The plastic oem radiators do leak and do crack

 

The radiator was leaking a shitload, so I replaced it, the hoses, and the cap. Everything seems all good now as far as the cooling system.

Did pads and rotors this weekend case they were done. And added 1” spacers cause the offset on the Tacoma wheels was causing the tires to rub the shit out of the UCA.

Had a better look at everything and there are so many things that need to be replaced with the suspension, steering, Ac, etc.. but I realized that it’s pointless to do any of it until I address the oil leaks.. a lot of the failures to to be due to oil everywhere.

valve cover is leaking and it’s hard to tell what else downhill from there. I really hope it’s not the front main seal cause it kinda looks like it. How common is that?

should I just start with the valve covers and clean up and just work my way down? Plan to do the plugs and coils while in there.

 

Also does the 5vz have some sort of camshaft seals that should be replaced same time as valve cover gaskets?

 

Clean that engine really good to identify all leaks

 

Or do it hillbilly style take that thing thru some dust and see where the new oils coming from

 

Yes they do. Just did my gaskets this weekend. Once you get the valve covers off there are two half moon seals and a cam plug in the back that you'll want to look at / replace. They were cheap so I did mine.

 

Dont skip the cam plugs or half moons. My cam plugs were leaking on both sides.

 

Thank you!

 

Do the actual cam seals and front crank seal when you do the timing belt.

 

Are the half moon seals and cam plugs an easy job once the valve cover is off? Can do it all one time?

I think I’m gonna have to do the timing belt etc.. at some point, but I am trying to plan this in stages.

 

Oh yeah. The half moon seals pull right out and the cam plugs are just 2 bolts, the location can be a pita due to the plastic wiring loom harness, so a swivel socket may be ideal but once those bolts are out it just pulls right out.

Here is the guide / video I followed for my uninstall. First time doing it and this made it a lot simpler.

https://youtu.be/wX1rf0CjrmE


Also next up for me is the timing belt and water pump but I may take it in as I don't have the SSTs to do it "right".

 

Thanks for this. Hopefully I have time this weekend