How likely to snap these aluminum bolts? (parking brake bracket)

I'm looking at doing my rear wheel bearings and in one step the parking brake needs to be detached.

In this video the guy is nervous about breaking the bolts because, apparently, they are aluminum?

How likely is it that these are seized enough to snap them off? Got any tips for dealing with them or making sure you're not over-torquing?

1. He mentions using a special socket that I am not familiar with. RTSB. What is that exactly?
2. Is he using WD40 spray on the back side?
3. What kind of torch is he applying? Propane?
4. What should I use on the bolts to prevent them from seizing again? Copper?

Thanks for any tips for dealing with these.

 

They are not AL. The termination of the parking brake cable (what these bolts thread into) might be? But you can easily access both sides of the bolts. Stick your head under there and take a look at the back side, youll see where the threaded hole for the bolts opens in the back. If it looks wicked rusty you might have issues.

If it looks bad Id do PB blaster on the back side once a day for a few days and let it work in.

For removal use a good 6 point socket of the right size. A light wire brushing will remove excessive dust and dirt from the bolt head before.

If its real bad you can use a propane torch to apply localized heat, just be cautious of everything else thats flammable. And the good ol method of loosen, tighten, loosen, then repeat works good on stubborn fasteners. All that said I dont think youll have too much of an issue.

If you need to replace the brake cable because it has come apart, the new one will come with new bolts. Otherwise just go down to the hardware store and match it up for some new ones of the right size.

 

That is a 'taught' method in most cases, as it's not intuitive. But it has been the saving solution for me in several cases. Because dear 'ole Dad taught me.

Another thing to add to the process is a squirt of lube every time you get a bit loosened. Then when you are tightening your putting a bit of lube on those threads, helping to smooth things up. Other than maybe making a mess, you can't really over-lube when working out a bad bolt.

I've used specialty products like PB, engine oil, transmission fluid, but never WD40. It's more useful for cleaning pine tar off your paint.

 

Acetone and ATF are miracle workers together, for crusty and rusty bolts

 

ATF ... Transmission fluid, eh?

 

100% old ATF and some acetone 50/50 mixed is a great penetrant.

 

The only way to know is to try to take them out.
You’ll know if it falls “stuck”.

FWIW, those 2 bolts are rated a 71 INCH lbs.
That’s about 6 ft lbs. You’ll undoubtedly need more than that to break them loose.
You can spray them with lube from the outside and the inside of the drum if it makes you feel better.

Personally, I’d just put a wrench on it and go by feel.
Easy does it…..

 

I didn't watch the video, but maybe RBRT sockets? Rounded Bolt Removal Technology. I'm only familiar with them in bit sockets, like Torx.