Hidden strobes 3rd gen

So you know modifying a DOT approved light housing means your OEM purchased housings are not carrying the approval and are not street legal - this is why most Authorized Emergency Vehicles use light heads beneath the tailgate and around the bumper and grille, but not hideaways.

People and agencies have lost in court and had to pay out for various incidents when the person who would have been "at fault" observed and claimed they were running with lights that are not street legal.

Good work on finding a workaround that utilizes the OEM optics, I'd like this in my vehicles. It's like the Whelen Halo system.

 

I know, it was a test with a required connection missing that led to an interesting result. Illumination when the switch cant do anything.

 

Since it's only the switch issue, keep it as you had before.

 

Is that a Gaddafi technical with AA cannons?

 

I think the issue is that this configuration creates an alternate path to ground in the switch, bypassing the LED. When connected on the positive side of the relay, the indicator LED would be in parallel and still function.

 

That is incorrect. The LED is in parallel with the circuit.

 

The LED is a load between two separate ground potentials... Which way will the current flow?

 

Whelen Halo was the first generation OEM integration of emergency vehicle warning with turn signals. It was bad ass and I want systems for my taco and my jeep.

https://www.emergencyequipmentnews.com/2007/03/17/whelen-halo™-super-led®-series/

 

See post #63...done

 

@EmergencyMedicalTaco see post# 41...edited

 

Adding an FJ switch (expensive)

 

I have always wanted strobes for my truck, as I would feel safer while on the side of the road at night. Although I have minimal knowledge about automotive wiring, y'all have explained this well enough to make me attempt it. I ordered the two connectors along with my relay module and strobe module. I saw someone say that they may fit behind the instrument cluster? Is this true, or should I just stick the project box underneath my dash?

Might I saw, the diagrams are very detailed. I am very impressed by them.

 

I noticed after I built the whole thing that there was more room behind the instrument cluster between the firewall and the structural bar than I previously thought. You could put the modules back there if you found a good way to secure them and save some length on the wires. I build it long enough to tuck the modules behind the center dash in the tunnel right of the gas pedal. Also, I recommend getting the proper crimper for the connector pinns. They aren't sold in normal auto parts stores, especially where I live. Heres the one I settled on and have had good results:

$20 Flytuo Wire Crimping Tool for AWG24-16 (0.25-1.5mm²) and Terminal Crimping Tool Works for Dupont Wire EPS,SATA,PINS MOLEX,JST Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FR38529?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Also, be aware that while the strobes are fantastic for visibility when under way or working, the standard hazard flasher pattern means "help". If you're on the side of the road and in distress, the strobes may lead first responders to pass you by. Just my 2-cents based on the language of you're "side of the road" statement.

 

I appreciate the info. I think I will try to put them behind the cluster. If I have to move the modules, no big deal. I should clarify that I intend to use them when I work on some of the garden beds throughout my town. It is pretty common that we work into dusk, so I should have clarified. However, your info is very useful info as I probably would have if I were stuck. When I get around to this project, in the next couple of weeks, I will post an update!

 

Pure genius. It’s almost like you’ve done this before. lol

 

If you crimp ferrules to wire ends, it'll get a solid connection, unless you prefer squashing the striped wire ends with the set screw in the relay module.

 

Yes that's what i was thinking of doing... I have wired a few home speaker systems and alarm systems in the past, so I have a decent crimper similar to the one mentioned above. I was thinking 16AWG wire since I have a ton of it laying around.

 

For the C10 connector, I'd say match the wire size of vehicle wires. I haven't gauged them yet, they are different gauges.

 

I used 20 gauge for the signal wires and 18 gauge for the positive and ground. The oem connector terminals are tiny and won't accept anything larger.

I also desoldered/cut away the terminal blocks on the relay module and soldered the wires to the thru holes which only accept 20 gauge. I used the cut legs from some diodes to bridge and make solderablle pin headers for the positive and ground connection. I did this because I'm sceptical the terminal blocks won't loosen over time due to vibration or seasonal thermal cycling and cause me to lose a connection to a turn signal.