Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Boat Engines, & Flood Control.

You don't have to read back very far, but it's a Heat Pump water heater.

 

Ok, thanks

 

?

 

Easiest way to look back without having to read through everything...

A) Find the original post you want to trace back.

B) Click on the "<" or ">" buttons within that post to easily/quickly step backward or forward though that poster's posts.

 

Thanks again. All this time and it’s that simple

 

@markmizzou ... tagged because I know you have a Scag, but I don't know which engine you have.

So I'm getting ready to do the first oil and filter change on my Scag. Due to cutting the fast growing Rye grass in my back yard over the winter I'm up to 10 hours already. The Scag manual randomly says 1st oil change after 8 hours, but it also says 20 hours in a different place. Kohler manual mentions 25 hours... so who knows???

I have the Kohler KT715 engine. Page 34 of the Scag Operators Manual shows the oil filter on the right, and the drain on the right. Admittedly the engine pictured appears different than mine, however there is something in that location on my engine that appears it could be a drain valve (kinda like a spigot)... see attached image.
The Kohler Owners Manual shows the oil filter on the right, and the drain on the left. There is something in that location that looks to be a standard (mower type) drain plug. I'm attaching pictures of my engine for reference.

I just want to know what I'm doing... before I start to do it . . .
If the spigot-looking thingy on the right is actually an oil drain, it would probably be the easiest and cleanest way to go.

 

Ok so I found the answer to my own question.. in a rather sleepily narrated YouTube video. It looks like the spigot-type valve must be a feature added to the engine by Scag, which explains why in my picture you can see a gob of brown sealant where it attaches to the engine housing. The video is rather bouncy and sometimes it's hard to know just what area of the engine the guy is looking at. But in the shots after the filter is removed it all becomes clear.

https://youtu.be/v84vKsdKHC8

 

The spigot gets a piece of hose added to it so you can direct the used oil to a container.

It takes a 10 mm wrench to open the valve on the spigot to allow the used oil to drain.

Most engines have a drain plug on both sides. The put the drain valve on the side that is easiest access .

 

I got it changed... even though I couldn't find my filter wrench that probably would have really fit the filter the best. I think I'm I might have given it away at some point. I had another filter wrench that I could use to get the filter loose, because it was really tight initially, but that filter was the old style with the band and long lever and I can only get about a 16th of a turn with it. And it only fit this tiny filter in its most collapsed position.
I knew about using the piece of plastic tubing. My old Snapper had a plastic valve that you would push in and turn about a half a turn. Then with a piece of tubing attached to it you could drain right into a bottle.
Now I just need to find a better wrench to fit these...

$19 Set of 2 KOHLER 12 050 01-S Engine Oil Filter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXWXHF0?smid=A219HML0CVO0HP

 

My first thoughts are ignition timing and gas quality. Was it ever okay? If not there could be an assembly defect of some kind.

 

What octane you running in it?

 

Yeah gas was my first thought, but I only use ethanol free and fuel stabilizer. Under very heavy grass I’ve always had single cylinder engines detonate. I always just pull back the speed control. This seems to be something else.

91 octane non ethanol with bluestar? Fuel stabilizer.

 

Finaly got home and found time to work on the bad hydro pump.

Had to replace the bad bearing that I showed in the pics above. I flushed all the lines and the wheel motor on that side. I hope I got most of the metal parts out.

After draining the system, I removed the hydraulic oil filter and tipped it upside down in the drain pan. Holy shit there was a lot of glitter!... and not the good kind.

Thankfully the previous owners installed a quality Wix filter. I think it did its job.

 

This is the latest project I picked up 3 days ago. I finally got a chance to access what it will need. Obviously this is a preliminary inspection.

-Will need head gaskets

- will need deck rollers

-will need a battery

- will need a seat delay switch

-will need a muffler shroud

-grip tape for the foot well

-edit: previous owner mentioned that it had trouble going up hills, I'm sure I'll be rebuilding the hydros

Things that I was surprised it doesn't need:

-muffler is still sound. Often when the head gasket goes, it blows raw oil in the exhaust and it burns out the baffling. This one sounds normal

-charging coil seems intact. While test running it, I put my meter on the unit and it was putting out around 14 volts at a high idle. That was nice to find.

-all tires are holding air, Usually i have to replace at least 1.

-seat is still serviceable.

 

Looking at getting a redirect sling for my 250’ bull rope. Anybody have any recommendations? Between the adjustable Rope ultra ring sling and all pro redirect sling.

 

I never even knew of such a thing.

 

What is this for?

 

Picked up a new mower today. Hasn't run in 6 years or so. Needs a motor allegedly, but I am very excited about this one. I have been on the hunt for a good Flail to mount on the front of my SxS for a couple of years now. This one was $300 OBO, I got it for $220. it's a Bushog GP50F. I originally wanted a Mott, but they are only like 38" wide, where this one is 50". I have no interest in an expensive Chinese one since I plan to use it hard.

All the bearings are good, and it seems to have all its knives. Needs tires and some motor work, but I have a spare genny in my shop right now with a 10 HP B&S that can be donated for the cause in need be. Also I am curious if I can swap the knives for hammers for thicker stuff.

I also don't understand the belt system on this as it has no tensioner so the drum runs whatever speed the motor does. Seems like it would make it harder to start and impossible to idle. I plan to just make a lever and idler to get around it, but I have not looked for a manual on this yet.

I'm still reworking a 63" Haban so I may not get to this for awhile. It also leaves me with 3 pull mowers, 2 riding mowers and 3 push mowers lol.

 

I forgot this one of the belt setup. It is missing the belt guard, so I wonder if it is also missing the engagement pulley setup.

 

I've been wanting one of those for years!

Nice grab!