*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Yeah, I haven't bought anything of Adams for several years as they went downhill. The original stuff used to be really good. Just using up old stock and replacing with P&S, Gtechniq and some others.

 

Just curious how many pads should I expect to use on a DCSB? I plan on polishing and buffing. No major scratches or scrapes. using 5 or 6” fine scratch and finishing pads.

 

I've always used 3" pads as Tacoma body panels aren't very big. Ideally you'd swap pads every couple of panels. I did a light correction before ceramic coating a couple of months ago with two white 3" Rupes pads and Sonax Perfect Finish. It was a stretch.

With a black truck you'll probably want at least 4-5 pads.

 

Good to know and thanks. I’ll need to see if I can swap to a 3” backing on the DA orbital buffer I have.
That’s the same thing I’m planning, paint correction then ceramic coating. I got the Adams advanced ceramic a while back that I need to use once it’s warm enough outside that I want to put the effort into this.

 

I know you've bought Adams, but I highly recommend Gtechnic CSL topped with EXO V4. You'll want the bigger bottle of EXO V4 for 2 coats if you go that route. Results...

 

That’s a great looking and shiny truck. I’ll take a look into that product too. Thanks for the suggestions

 

5 or 6 inch pads will be fine. You will want some smaller pads for tight areas. I would have 5 or 6 pads. When I did mine I would do a couple of panels and grab fresh pad.

 

I'm doing the same. The only Adams product I've been buying is the Interior Detailer.

I find P&S works better than the Adams products I've tried. Big Gtechniq user of the coatings. Plus I like using Sonax products, and Nextzett.

 

Needing new tires next week and will be swapping my 3 year old spare tire to a regular use tire. What's the best way to get the history of the Western US off the tire so it looks just as new as the new (3) that will go on the other corners and the (1) that will take its place as the spare.

Or should I just put on the spare and somehow run over a razor blade so I can get it replaced?

 

Again, I've been phasing out my Adams Polish stuff, but Adams tire and rubber cleaner with a detail factory tire brush works well for tire bloom and dirty tires in general.

$15 Adam's Polishes Tire & Rubber Cleaner (16 oz) - Removes Discoloration From Tires Quickly - Works Great on Tires, Rubber & Plastic Trim and Rubber Floor Mats

https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Tire-Rubber-Cleaner-Discoloration/dp/B076XSMN9W

$16 Detail Factory - ProGrip Tire Brush - Ergonomic ProGrip Handle, Stiff Synthetic Bristles, Ergonomic Design, Clean Your Tires with Ease - Grey

https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Facto...sprefix=detail+factory+,automotive,137&sr=1-2

P&S wheel cleaner works well just not as well on tires imo

$18 P&S Professional Detail Products - Brake Buster Wheel Cleaner - Non Acid, Removes Brake Dust, Oil, Dirt, Light Corrosion (1 Pint)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779KHK24?_encoding=UTF8

 

has anyone tried the adams graphene ceramic coat?
im thinking of getting it and doing my truck once i get my new decals on and have time to polish lol

 

Gtechniq CSL topped with two coats of EXO V4.

 

Anyone know what the difference with the Midnight Black Metallic paint pens from the dealer? They sell 2 different pens, base and top. For small scratches, that are through the pain should I get the base or top? They have different part numbers too. I don’t think they mean clear coat either.

Might be the best place to ask or maybe I need to call the parts department and ask.

Here’s the scratches

 

I'd guess one has clear coat, but usually all paint pens do. Test before you apply them whatever you buy.

 

The last time i bought a paint pen it had two sides, one of the paint and one was clear coat. At least they’re only like 10 bucks each. Maybe the parts guy will know when I call.

 

I found it on Amazon too and some of the reviews and questions seemed to clear it up. The base coat is the color match. The top coat is the clear coat with sparkles. Maybe this will help someone in the future.

I’ll get the base coat for my scratches and use the clear coat from another pen since it’s a small scratch. I’ll be polishing and buffing it in a few weeks. Maybe it’ll look good.

 

Yo, so Ive got some questions for you all:

I had some warranty paint work done in February. I picked the truck up from the body shop on Feb 17. The body shop did a shit job and me and a buddy whos a detailer wet sanded all the orange peel and dirt out of the paint about a month later. We spent a good afternoon working on the hood and fender.

My questions is about waxing and sealants. How long should I wait to apply wax/sealant/ceramic coat to the body panels that were repainted then wet sanded? The internet tells me between 60-90 days is ok. But that newer cars/paint techniques take less time to cure and harden.

Any and all advice is much appreciated. Keep in mind that I do live in a snowy/colder climate. I do park in a semi conditioned garage every night. not sure if either of those facts change cure time.

TIA!

 

I would ask the body shop that did the work. Anytime I’ve had any work done they have always told me 3 months.

 

given that they had to redo their work and paint the truck twice and I still had to have it wet sanded I don't exactly trust them, their work, or what comes out of their mouth. It was pretty obvious to me that they had absolutely no business painting cars

 

I have a question for anyone removing swirls from soft clear coat, specifically my 2022 lunar rock. I have a 2020 tundra in magnetic grey and used chemical guys torq x DA with VSS and an orange hex logic pad. Works perfect to remove fine scratches and leave no visible swirls behind.

Now my Lunar rock, what an absolute pain in the ass to remove swirls. This combo listed above I believe is too aggressive to remove the fine swirls as it makes more, albeit different size, swirls.
What has everyone used on soft clear to get a nice swirl/haze free result? What colour pad? What fine polish?