Low Oil Pressure... Engine replacement?

My 2021 makes the first noise every time I hit the gas right before it revs up. I have no clue what the noise is, I’ve searched and tried to find others with it but I couldn’t find any videos for me to compare with. Your first motor didn’t do this noise?

 

The dealer said it was normal and checked some other Tacoma's in the shop with the same noise.

I don't remember hearing that before but I never really listening for it. You can hear it in the cab with the door and hood closed but it's very faint and you have to really be listening for it. It's definitely more prominent if the door or hood is open.

I just tried to listen for it on a friends 2020 and it didn't make that noise.

 

I have a manual so I have to rev it up every time I start rolling…I have noticed that noise basically every time I’ve ever hit the gas for nearly a year. I think it’s normal, you prob just didn’t notice it before. I’m not sure about the second noise though.

Mine is a 2021, so who knows.

 

1st noise could be air rushing into the intake which is more noticeable without a engine cover or could be the throttle body may need not be moving fast enough on throttle causing a vortex effect. 2nd noise sounds like dieseling, although rare for a Toyota to do that and its pretty minor. Might try running some fuel system cleaner through your tank. I personally use

$25 BG 44k Fuel System Cleaner Power Enhancer 11oz.

BG 44k.

 

Late to the party, but read the saga. While I agree with Toyota that a common occurrence for an engine to fail, I am going to go out on a limb and say that you probably had a some internal damage from your diesel incident that substantially shortened the life of your engine. Especially if discovered the mistake after running it until it dies. Unfortunately, being so long ago there is nothing you can do. Glad you got it fixed and just chalked it up to being a life experience. Undoubtedly you are wiser from the experience.

 

For those who followed the saga lol. New updates.

I got the first oil change after the engine replacement at 100k (about 6k after the replacement). Asked the dealer to check the oil to make sure everything looked good. They did the oil change and said everything is great. Fast forward 5k miles and i wanted to look at it myself. So i did the oil change at 105k miles and what do you know, glitter all in the oil.

I had planned to do the transmission fluid drain and fill at the some time so I went ahead and did that as well. While letting it idle to get the trans temp up I hear a metallic ticking/knocking sound while in idle. Very intermittent and did not increase with pressing the gas. Just a piece of metal slapping maybe 3-4x every 5 seconds on the cold start. Did not do it after warming up from driving for a while then sitting at idle.

I spoke to the service manager and he said bring it Monday so they can have a look. It is still under warranty but the amount of metal in the oil cant be anything good.

 

That’s wild… what part of the engine did they not replace ? I’m wondering if they left the prior gunk in the oil cooler etc and it did a number on the “new” motor.

You should send a sample to Blackstone so you have an actual lab result.

this may help your case if this engine grenades

 

Only the heads were reused, everything else all new.

 

This definitely re Blackstone

 

It could also be the shavings from the new short block breaking in. For sure for your peace of mind let them look at it but it could possibly be a mix of break in material combined with poor cleaning of the oil filter adapter. They may tell you to put another 10k on it before they investigate further

 

He has like 2 weeks of warranty left …

 

I picked it up 3/7/23 after the work was done so I have until at least then.

 

Ah sweet ! Was going off the start date of the thread.

 

I read through this saga, what an ordeal. I hope it all works out well for you.

I recently purchased a 2016 with 55k miles that has a timing cover seep, which I of course didn’t notice until I had completed the purchase.

I have elected to watch the seep on the timing cover for now instead of having the repair done due to how invasive it is. Doesn’t seem worth it to have the engine pulled to chase a small seep at this point. Seems highly likely yours could have been damaged during that repair from what I have read.

Again, good luck!

 

Any updates?

 

Man, this sounds EXACTLY like what happened to mine back in December.

Long story short....my 3.5 developed a loud tick which I thought was abnormal. Had it checked out several times, was told it was normal.

Apparently it is NOT normal....a week or so after that, I noticed a crack in the right valve cover, which I then made an appointment to have checked out. Never even made it to that. Less than two days later, I was driving across a bridge...it made a loud pop, followed by a scraping/sucking noise...and the oil pressure warning came on. Pulled over and had it towed to the dealer. They diagnosed it....and this is what they found.

They found that the needle bearings came out of a cam follower and let the follower fall out of place, which let the the needle bearings get washed into the sump, where they were sucked up by the oil pump. Apparently the pickup isn't a screen, and I KY has a grid to keep large chunks out of the pump. The needle bearings then grenaded the oil pump and then the whole engine. The follower also bounced around the inside of the cylinder head and damaged the camshaft too.

This happened at 102k miles......so I called Toyotas brand engagement department and was told the same thing you were.......they wouldn't good will cover it, and it's just bad luck that it happened to me. I am lucky enough to have some good friends that work at the dealer I go to, and they both emailed Toyota corporate on my behalf.....which resulted in a $2500 credit towards the job. The whole bill was $12,600, so I still had to pay $10,100....but $2500 was still better than nothing. They are also covering the replacement engine with a full warranty..intake to oil pan, fan to flex plate for 3 years, unlimited mileage.

Here's pics of the failed cam follower inside the cylinder head. I also included the pic of the cracked valve cover...which I now know what caused that, though I missed seeing anything loose while I had it off unfortunately, which is irritating to say the least. I would have said I was 99% sure that follower was in place when I checked it, but obviously I missed it.

 

They could not replicate the metal knocking sound and I could not again after it was at the dealer for those few days. Even after listening to it with the service manager at the dealer before they took it. So that kind of went no where.

As for the metal in the oil. The dealer told me they would do an oil change and check it. I asked for them to save the oil so that i can look at it as well. Fastforward about 3 days and they call me back and say its ready to pick up so of course i asked... did it have any metal after the oil change... Dealer: "Our master tech said that was break in material in the pictures and they did 4 oil changes to flush it". I asked well did you at least examine the oil after the first oil change... no. I said well let me see the oil from the first oil change... Oh we dumped it.

So they let me check the oil after the "4th" oil change to see that it was clean, which it was, then did a 5th oil change.

Essentially was told that since they didn't see it they cant determine any cause. That I should put another 5k and they can reexamine it.

I put about 3k mile since December and its been running fine. I plan to do a Blackstone oil analyst this week and send it off to see what the oil looks like. If its bad news ill go back to the dealer for the "reexamine" and tell them i want to be there when the oil comes out, get another sample right in front of them coming out the truck, and send it off again. Then go from there.

If there is obvious metal at that point then of course it should be warrantied, hopefully.

Anyone had any recommendations on getting enough oil out to get a sample? I dont want to do a full oil change because if there is a problem I want to be able to have the dealer see it in the oil. I planned to crack the drain plug and just try to get a little bit out and try not to make a complete mess lol.

 

When I asked about that....I was told my '17 Pro was worth about $4500-$5000 not running, or if I changed the engine, $27k - $30k running....even with a replacement engine.

So I opted to fix mine for obvious reasons. The bill was $12,600....the dealer got me a $2500 dollar credit from Toyota....so $10,100 on a truck that's still worth at least twice if not three time more than that was the way to go in my opinion.

 

Buy one of the oil filter housing drain adapters with the hose and extract some that way. A decent amount comes out when you drain the filter housing...and you can even put the cap back on, start it, and then drain it again with that adapter to get more out so you have enough.

 

Can you just drop the oil filter to get a sample or a suction pump down the dip stick tube.