How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

I would also add that the PreRunner(2008) also is 91 ft. lbs. for the caliper bolts.

Thanks @LoadedTaco for the writeup! Appreciate that. Used Toyota OEM parts. Pads + rotors + pins+ pin hole clips and anti-rattle springs. Used the copper anti-seize on the caliper bolts and the back of the pads and top and bottom as well. Silicone paste on the caliper pins.

This is only the second service on the brakes for this truck(original owner). That was a BG brake flush @~66,000 mi. I was expecting to encounter stuck caliper pins(had my Kroll ready), but they came right out with no problem. Broke loose the caliper bolts with a breaker bar. Both sets of pads had uneven wear(as LoadedTaco mentioned).

I cleaned up and reused the spacers(two for each brake pad). Cleaned what little rust was on the hub with a wire brush.

I have one small problem. A small amount of brake fluid overflowed out of the reservoir when compressing the pistons. Brakes seem to function AOK. Not sure if I need to bleed the brakes or if I can just remove some brake fluid from the reservoir.

I'm going thru the thread now to see if this is covered.

Other than taking a long time to accomplish(me being careful not to forget a step or three) and the brake fluid issue, all went remarkably well.

 

+1 on the brake fluid overflowing the reservoir. How did you remedy that?

 

One way to remedy that is to remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before starting. You can use a "turkey baster" to suck out some fluid.

 

Thanks. That seemed like the only easy way to do it.
Definitely was!

 

Check out the features in the Search function. (Magnifying Glass symbol). You can search just this thread for terms such as “over fill” “overflow” etc...

Congrats on a successful operation

 

Couldn’t have done that without this forum. Thanks!

 

The turkey baister method works well for me.

 

Gonna be my first time doing this soon. The impact gun/sockets is optional right?

 

A impact gun is not mandatory, but does make your life easier. You can use "regular" sockets with it, but you risk breaking one. If you use it a few times, it will probably be OK. Just don't make a habit of using them. Hardened sockets are made for a reason...lol I bought a few impact gun sockets off Amazon...they weren't expensive, and you don't need an entire socket set.

Get the torque specifications for the caliper bracket bolts, and use a torque wrench. That's (caliper bolts) the primary thing you need to worry about when it comes to torque. It's not difficult...even the first time user can get it right. Just take your time.

 

Affirm. I have metric sockets/a torque wrench/etc just no impact wrench. I'm gonna ask a buddy to supervise me as well so I don't make any critical mistakes. I also have a couple of the repair books that have all the torque specs for everything so I should be good, thank you.

 

A impact wrench is definitely not a requirement. They just make the job easier. Once you knock that job out, you'll wonder why you thought it was difficult in the first place. Just follow the steps and take your time. Brakes are one point that I don't let anyone do on my vehicle.

If you want to take your brake maintenance to the next level, recommend investing in a Motive power bleeder kit. I think this is kit with the adapter I use on my 2008 Tacoma:

0101 - Round Universal Power Bleeder - Motive Products

I bought the basic kit with the BMW adapter, then added this universal adapter for my Toyota trucks and my Honda.

Basically you suck some fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir (with a turkey baster), hook up the kit and pressurize it to about 10 psi. If there are no leaks, release the pressure and fill the bottle with brake fluid. (I always buy the large bottles of brake fluid, since if you run it dry, you'll have to redo the bleed sequence again.) Re-pressurize it and start bleeding the (RR, LR, RF, LF) wheels in order. If you ever change a brake caliper, you'll also need to bleed your system. You'll also realize changing a brake caliper isn't any more difficult than changing a brake rotor.

Remember we're here if you have any questions. Also YouTube is your friend. Recommend watching a video of the procedure you plan to undertake so you're familiar with the process.

Have fun saving a lot of money and gaining the satisfaction of doing the work yourself!

 

Thanks for the advice. I did see what he wrote about the optional system bleeding for people who want to do that, so maybe someday I’ll start doing that as well. Do you recommend ordering some extra shims/clips before I finish my order?

 

I would order the parts, then see what came with them. Your pads may have a new set of backing shims, or you might reuse your old. I would make sure you have a high temp grease for the pistons, backs of the pads, pins, etc. Just keep it off the new rotors and pad surfaces. Oh, pick up a can of brake clean to wipe the braking surface of your rotors down after installing them.

Not sure if you have screws to hold the rotors in place, but if they're seized in the hub, you can always grind them down to remove the old rotor. They aren't needed, just nice to have. You can always install a lug nut (or two) to hold the rotor in place when you reinstall the caliper. Once the Caliper & pads are installed, just remove the lug nut(s) and reinstall the wheel. You're done!

These types of jobs aren't difficult, and you'll understand how simple and logical everything works once you've done it once.

Like I mentioned before, YouTube is your friend. Watch the procedures for your specific Tacoma before doing the job. We have 5-lug single piston caliper Tacomas, and 6-lug, 4-piston caliper Tacomas, and the hardware is slightly different. Search for your specific truck and procedure, such as "2015 Tacoma 4X4 brake job" and watch it before starting. I've done these jobs many times, and always watch one of these for a quick refresher before starting.

 

Performed my first ever brake and rotor change on my Tacoma tonight. Feeling proud of myself. Wanted to say thanks for this video OP.

 

Is this the same as doing it on a 2007 4cylinder, 5 lug , NON pre runner ?

 

Just wanted to say thanks to those who contributed to this thread. I held off on doing my own front pads and rotors until recently... they lasted just shy of 125,000 miles and the pads were getting super low. The dealer quoted me about $1,300 for the job, so I bought some Centric rotors and pads, an 18" breaker bar, got it all wrapped up this morning, and probably saved nearly $1,000 in the process. Once I did the passenger side, the other took about about half as long. Very easy!

 

How important is the optional step of clamping off the brake line and opening the bleeder?

 

I have no idea what you're talking about. The only time you should consider clamping off the brake line is if you are changing calipers. You don't want to clamp off the brake line when bleeding the brake system because that will stop the flow of brake fluid out of the bleed screw, keeping you from actually bleeding the braking system.

 

Great write up and excellent video!
All while practicing your second ammendment!
Awesomeness!

 

Thank you very much for this excellent post. I found it Very Helpful, and the answer I've been looking for. I have a 2008 4X4 in excellent condition, original brakes last over 100K The next set have the fading and wobbling brake pedal, after a very careful and meticulous replacement by my son. The Only thing we did not do was your suggestion about rebuilding the caliper seals and cleaning out the fluid inside.
Thank you so much !!