AZ BS Thread 4²0

Ah shit, I’d have to look back. I did the full kit, wheels and tires on one invoice to follow the buy once cry once method, only to come back this spring for the front end. @state48overland could probably give a better ballpark of what they’re running today. I ordered late 2021 and waited the wait to avoid price hikes that have since occurred.

but yes, they are the 2.5’s. Love the build and the ride.

 

bet you love ‘em more when they’re quiet!

In all seriousness, nothing but love for those that choose parenthood. We are the funcles that spoil the shit out of the kids that were born to teenage siblings.

we spend more than enough on those crumbs snatchers.

 

Amd here i thought it was crabs.

 

In addition to what you’ve already got, to go up to 35s truly without rubbing offroad youll need a cab mount relocation, lots of firewall massaging with a large sledge, ditch your wheelwell liners entirely, cut n fold the pinch seam and most likely something like the JDFab subframe which will run you about $3000 installed plus the correct UCAs to match it. Thats my current setup and i still rub occasionally when offroad. I need a true firewall “correction” or a solid axle which might happen sooner than later.

 

yup, all sounds about as expected. Gonna put some dirt and work on these before I move up, as the build suits me just fine for now.

And then I go to a meet with you assholes.

 

This is why I say wheel specs are a big part of it. What's the backspacing on your wheels out of curiosity?

I have done all the same, minus the JD kit obviously, but have set up my DK lowers to imitate what the JD kit does to a point (push everything forward) and I have minimal rubbing (only when actually hard stuffing while wheeling). Tires play a factor as well with so many different sizes and lug design/size.

Not trying to be negative or anything.. but hearing that you still have issues with the JD kit makes me feel a little better and gives a little reassurance/justification as I had just spent a large amount to rebuild the front end with the DK LCAs, another new pair of gusseted spindles, wheel bearings, Wilwood BBK, new wheels with the specific offset I wanted, etc and then I saw the JD stuff. So, I have been determined to do as much as I can with what I currently have, vs going through the process of selling, buying again, more down time, etc... because I did think about it there for a while.. lol

true solution is choppity chop chop. which is what I'm gonna be doing shortly. guess what I'm getting as is I dont think there is an almighty one and done solution. too many variables... even with a specific kit to help.

In general.. I think wheel specs + max caster that you can get away with + cutting/trimming/tubbing for the rest are the main/dumbed down points.

 

....Chuckles then Sobs of desperation....

 

Anybody got a reliable alignment shop in the east valley? I'm installing my icon suspension tomorrow and want to get it aligned afterwards. Thanks in advance.

 

this is the real reason I’m in no hurry. When I go away from the current build, I’ll do it big, so gonna enjoy what I’ve got while I’ve got it.

 

Desert Toy Shop.

 

@state48overland is another good choice...

 

The real question is...did you do the sway bar delete yet?

 

They're closer than Desert Toy Shop to me, I'll probably end up going there. Thanks for the help! I may be back for advice when I do something wrong

 

Current wheels are RRW RR6-H 17x8.5 ET0. They rub. Previous wheels were Method MR314 17x8.5 ET-25. They rubbed and also they rubbed on my rear shocks due to the 12" shock conversion thus the reason I swapped wheels. Once I did the JDFab subframe my firewall rubbing essentially stopped except at like 3/4 lock in a really crossed up crawling type scenario where the very corner of the tire tread is closest to the firewall. I could definitely pound back my firewall more but Im slightly concerned about the fusebox thats right on the other side. I now only rub the top of the inside of the wheel wells, even with superbumps and Im only on BFG AT2s 315/70-17. If I were on a true "35" things would be worse. Im half tempted to go "up" to a true 35 instead of 37s but I hate thinking about getting into a D or E load rating. I love the C load rating you can get with the BFGs. Thanks Furd.

 

Same for me.. only on the corners, fully locked and twisted up.. the lugs grab, and these M/T Baja Boss MTs are true to size 35 and extra chunky in the side lugs. no wheel spacers right? Interesting regardless. I found the -25mm to be the sweet spot (at least for the front).. but good (and bad) to hear about the rear interference on the conversion.. as that's on the soon to be done list as well. Wondering if its the same across the board for all the rear towers out there. I wont run spacers myself.. so that would mean I would be looking for different wheels as well if that does become an issue. Also.. going from E's to these M/T D rated tires.. was amazing. Personally I would never run a C.. but if you're used to it.. I can see that being a drawback.

 

Guy I bought my wheels from invited me out to China dam today. Great loop. Lots of water.


Jeep guy wanted to join the cool kids somewhere along the trail lol

 

No spacers. I did like the -25 Methods and contemplated running a spacer but ultimately I chose not to. It just baaarely rubbed enough to scuff my schmancy shocks and piss me off. I have the BAMF shock relocation for what its worth. As for not running C load rated tires, why not? They ride nice, flex really well when aired down and are a lot lighter weight. The load rating of my BFG ATs is 2535 so its plenty even with my weighed down pig of a rig to lift a tire offroad and still not be over the weight limit of 3 tires. What more do you need?

 

That looks sweet! Where exactly is that at?

 

Up north of lake pleasant

 

Yeah, I wish there were more choices for C rated tires in the larger sizes. Toyo and General have 35x12.50's in load C.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...QR7OCAT3&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

$400+ General Grabber X3 Tires

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...d Red Letter&partnum=525QR7GRX3RLV2&tab=Sizes

I don't recall seeing any C rated 37's besides BFG. I'm hoping they become more common now that the Raptor is available with 37's and tire manufacturers want a direct replacement option to be available. I guess it just comes down to how much demand there is from Raptor owners for C rated replacements.

I've got to admit though, I didn't see a drastic difference in ride quality changing from C rated KO2 to D rated Baja Boss A/T tires. I can tell they are heavier when braking, and noisier at speed, but still about 90% the ride quality of the BFG. I had a 40 year veteran with Discount Tire tell me that it's not the load range letter rating that matters for ride quality but the load index number. The lower the number the more flexible the tire. I'm inclined to believe him since my experience lines up. The C rated BFG's are a 116 index and my Baja Boss is 119. I had C rated 34" Ridge Grapplers before the BFG's and they were nowhere near as soft as the BFG's. They were rated at 118. Rubber compound also plays into this since the 119 rated, D load Mickey Thompsons ride much better than the 118 rated, C load Nittos. Just my 2 cents for what it's worth...