Radiator 1996 TACO 4x4, automatic, 3.4L

Just some notes. While your at it consider changing out thermostat using a Toyota part.

Ordered from Rockauto; Radiator cap Gates #31333, DENSO Radiator NP-221-3138. Other parts: safety goggles, new hoses, hose clamps, drain buckett that is low enough to place under stopcock, rounded none biting hose clamps for transmission hoses, a burping funnel. A 8”wobble 3/8 extension, a 3/8 swivel socket adapter, 12 mm socket, 6 12” 1/8 wide zip ties. Pliers for the hose clamps may be needed, vice grips work pretty well for this. Used needle nose pliers and a standard narrow bladed screwdriver for the two shroud clips to help pry them off. Used a common blade standard screwdriver for the radiator adjustable screw type hose clamps. Had to use 8” wobble type 3/8” extension with a swivel adapter for the 12mm socket to get off the two lower 12 mm screws holding the radiator to the frame, paper work with new radiator has a picture of these screws. Oh, if your fortunate to still have the original mfg. spring clamps for the radiator hoses and they are still tight on the old hoses I would use them, they seem to work better.

Ordered a burp funnel from Amazon but found it did not fit: Do not purchase: EPAuto Spill Proof RaD Coolant Filling Funnel Kit , the cap does not fit. But I think the concept is worthy of purchase, just not this one. There are utube videos on this tool and you might want to review one.

Used the zip ties to help secure the grill when it was reinstalled.

- Careful, antifreeze is toxic, Oh, I took several pictures of hose and clamp positions and the general location of things as a reference for the install and re-assembly. Suggest you mark the old radiator hoses as they connect to the engine then when ready to install the new ones you match them up to fit as the old hoses did. Careful if using an adjustable radiator clamp, over tightening could crack the plastic connection. So just snug down radiator hoses good and tighten more if needed when you check for leaks. Parking on level ground or with the front end up a bit may be helpful. There will be air in the system preventing a full radiator, which can cause over heating and associated problems. So with the radiator cap off, let the engine idle too hot with both heater and blower on high for a while to help remove air. Careful, ware safety goggles, air bubbles will rise to the outlet blowing hot fluid upward out of the radiator into the air. With the engine off, cool till the engine is cold and then check to see how much more fluid is needed to fill the radiator. Then cap the radiator and let the truck idle for a while, same heat settings. Engine off, and then check for any leaks. Also after a very short drive checking the temperature gauge for overheating park on level ground engine off and cold and then check again that the radiator is full. Remember this system is under pressure as the engine warms, so always insure the engine is off and cold before removing the radiator cap. Good luck, I hope this helps. Woodcutter