New 2023 TRD DBSB OR4x4- Leveling Advice- keep it sim

Sorry this may be a bit wordy…..

I recently bought a new Tacoma and I think it drives well, a little nose dive on braking, but would like to level it out, to allow for some larger maybe even pizza cutters up to 31.5-32” max.

Researching, there are so many years of posts, so after nudging through a few hours, let’s start fresh.

My past experience was with a few Jeeps, and many people put too large or heavy wheels or tires on, kills the questionable performance (Jeep’s were no powerhouses nor are v6 tacomas), so I may go stock, or similar size wheels, 16”, bring up the front, and maintain the current suspension, but leveled out. If I change wheels or tires, they will be as light as I can get, but still keep an aggressive look on the tread.

So the ask, question is, if I went with Bilsteins

$504 b8 5100 series set of front & rear shocks fits 1996 2004 tacoma with 1-1.5" lift | trendsauto decal | 24-249928 33-247724 33-247717

b8 5100 adjustable shocks on the front only, no new springs or rear suspension changes, would this keep the current suspension feel close to new, and allow for a slightly larger diameter, maybe skinnier tire, without cutting, etc…

I want to keep it close to stock, just add a little bit to it.

I am adding a light folding tonneau, but no steel bumpers, winches, this is mostly a daily driver on the roads of Scottsdale, not a lot of off road use, but I have a few places with trails I know of nearby, nothing brutal.

Suggestions or recommendations welcomed?

 

This is my 23 OR with 5100 front and rear, shocks only, and stock springs in the front. Feels slightly stiffer, but not much from stock. I have 275/70/17, and it rubs a little in reverse and full turn, and going in/out of the driveway. I did heat up the rear part of the fender and pushed it in. I can probably trim the fender, but don't want go through that process. Recently got it aligned, and that helped a little. I'm find with the occasional rubbing.

 

Just go Fox 2.0 —swap is easier, deals can be found and you can sell the old given that its new..

if you’re going to go through the trouble of it might as well, do an upgrade and spend a few more dollars. rebuildable, better handling and performance

 

I agree with this if you have the funds. I did 5100s all around for my 17' dclb to level it and I wish that I would have spent a few more $$ to get something that's rebuildable. I do like the ride of the 5100s as my daily though.

 

Bilstein 6112/5160 + ECGS Needle bearing fix

Don't stress about rubbing for daily driving, massage some fender liners and trim some small plastics pieces and you're golden.

 

5100s, keep it simple

 

If i go with just 5100 Bilsteins, is that just the front shocks/struts and no new coils or coil replacement. Then just get it aligned.

No rear suspension work needed, correct? Or is something needed on rear?

Not sure what the needle bearings issue is, I don't even have 1000 miles yet?

 

You can do 33” pizza cutters with no lift and no rubbing. Adds 2.5” to overall height
with no lift all all.

Go 1” front block to level or leave factory rake.

 

I have just shocks (F/R). I used my stock springs for the front. Then alignment. It's the quickest and least expensive option, but this is my daily.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Not sure, what is the reason for rear shock replacement, does it raise the rear too?

Are the 5100 Bilsteins adjustable front and rear?

And what is this needle bearing issue? I have seen comment about replacing when new front shocks are installed.

 

Replacing the rear isn't necessary, but figured I'd just replace all 4. Only front are adjustable. I'm not aware of of needle bearing issues.

 

So my truck is new, less than 1k miles, is there a reason to replace the rears, or is this just the thought process to keep the same brand of shocks on the truck?

is there any mechanical or driving improvement benefit that is gained by putting new rear Bilsteins on the rear when doing the adjustable Bilsteins on the front to do a leveling lift?

Just wondering why replace the existing new rears if no real benefit is gained?

I CAN do the Bilsteins in front and rear plus leveling blocks some use on the rear, it seems overkill to just raise the front 1.5”…..

 

My truck was roughly 1,700 miles when I did mine. There isn't any real benefits to replacing the rear also. I don't have a reason why I it, but I was able to get my hand on all 4, so why not?