5 speed manual deceleration tick in colder temps

Hello new account since I lost the email to my first. Long time follower first time posting.


Forgive me if there’s already a thread on this but I’ve been searching for the past few days and haven’t found anything that matches the noise/situation I have.

2009 2.7 5 speed manual 2wd pre-runner with 180k. Owned for 12 years never heard this noise before.

In cooler outdoor temps 50F or lower my truck will make what I can best describe as a tick from under the cab. The tick almost sounds like the fan hitting something but has a slightly more metallic sound. The speed of the tick also seems to match the rpm at the moment or slightly slower. The conditions that cause it are very particular so I’ll list them out…

tick noise happens:
Temp below 50
Truck just started (cold)
Only while moving
Only while in gear
Only when clutch is not depressed
Only when foot is quickly removed from gas pedal
Only noticeable in 2-4th gear
Most prominent in 3rd gear.

The tick will go away after driving 10 minutes. It goes away as soon as the clutch is depressed. It will continue if I slowly re accelerate for about 5 secs then go away. It will stop immediately if I accelerate quickly. It does not happen at highway speed, only 20mph to 45. Throughout all of this cold or warm the truck shifts and drives completely normal.

The u-joints were replaced about 2k ago. I have visually inspected the fan, belts, drive shaft, diff. All appear normal. I plan to go to my shop but want to try to get an idea ahead of time. Any ideas? Or directions to a thread similar.

Thank you in advance.

 

Pardon late reply 3-4 months after OP.
No other replies yet? to this well written post, wow.
(but your tick sound frequency-per-second=?,
and overall pattern: random or steady? not so well described)

Is your clutch and clutch slave cylinder original?
Cylinder is a good suspect. Rust gets thru the sm circular boot,
pistons get jammed/sticky in the slave cylinder for ALL of us over time.

Would your noise also be describable as a metallic "Chirp" sound ?
(which is not like a steady/fast/repeated tick, how bout a click-y maybe 1x/second)
I do remember thinking it was from the clutch throwout bearing,
barely touching pressure plate, i.e. not fully disengaged...
my noise went away also with clutch pedal down and throwout bearing at full spin!
You'd never hear THAT at high speed over all the noise of driving,
but i think YOU DO indicate your noise goes away by tapping? clutch while running/in-gear.

My 2006 Tacoma/5spd i think was doing the above not-too-fast chirp/click, got solved
when i DID replace the clutch (plate,disc,bearing,pilot) at 150k around 2019.
TMI/later at 180k mi, developed "sticky pedal" problem which causes NO noise
but instead indicates (usually slave) cylinder sticking (clutch not engaging) with pedal down.
But it may help to know that the slave cylinder
would seem as main/typical/usual cause of perhaps two problems:

--- NOT FULLY DISengaging, at the almost-released point (foot off pedal),
causing gentle throwout bearing noise. IN reality seems rarely caused by sticky cylinder,
instead, adjusting the play/shaft on the master = very important to get full disengage.

Above may be a rare thing, but very common apparently, is ....

--- slave cylinder = cause of NOT AT ALL disengaging,
symptom = clutch pedal sticking all the way down!
(Surprisingly, lifting clutch pedal seems to "pull" things back to OK...
hydraulic fluid reverse pull?)
I think both these problems COULD be caused by same/related rusty cylinder problem.

You'd be tempted to replace slave AND master cylinder together,
but be warned, the pedal-mounted master cylinder swap is tricky... big timesink swearing at
-- rubber fluid inlet hose hard to get at, small/slim pliers,etc may help, AND
-- steel fluid line easy to unwrench but hard to align,re-thread w/ little finger room, one hand only.

TMI? I found that gravity bleeding works nicely for my 2006 w orig master still installed,
I got most air out of a new SLAVE via gravity/slow-drip without having to bench bleed it,
perhaps we all need to (bench) pre-bleed a new MASTER, which seems to inhale fluid
only? while being stroked, at least from a dry start. I'm obviously a bit confused on
why I couldn't blow air in and through it (resistance/blocked?), using my lips thru a new dry master,
but gravity bleeding seems to work later when installed and pedal up, untouched for initial bleed.