Inspecting & fixing my new 166,000 mile 24 year old truck

Have the truck at a repair shop now, waiting for their analysis. Any insight you post will be appreciated.
I've never owned a Toyota before, but have had a Jeep Scrambler 4wd.

1. While sitting at a light on a hill, brakes (probably master cylinder) lose pressure and it starts rolling. Got to fix before I damage someone in line behind me!
2. Serious but intermittent grinding sound from front end. Hubs not locked, 2wd. I never heard a wheel bearing make this much noise, however. Hoping that's all it is.
3. Had to break hard when highway traffic stopped. Rear brakes locked up too easily. Isn't this supposed to have ABS?!
4. Ordered Bilstein 5100's. Stock shocks, especially rear ones, seem tired.
Anything else I should be concerned about?

Thanks, folks. Hopefully, the two young men with their own used car business in Norman, North Carolina are as honest as they seemed. Rare to find, but good people still exist maybe even in the post GOVDID-19 auto sales environment of ripping off the buyers.

 

Hopefully the repair shop you dropped it off at is also honest. And if those two young men that sold you it weren't, this repair list could get long and pricey. Big ticket items I'd be concerned with include:

- Frame rust [big money can be dumped on this one]
- Lower ball joints [not all that costly, unless they fail at speed]
- Valve adjustment history, depending on mileage [3rz's can burn valves if this gets neglected, next thing you know you could be looking at a top end rebuild]
- Head gasket issues [not super common, but can get pricey to fix]
- Brake booster [I believe they're discontinued, and the remaining stock (or used/remanned ones) don't usually go cheap]
- Lastly, just general neglect of replacing wear and tear items [death by 1000 cuts to catch up on]. You already mentioned tired shocks, which usually are accompanied by tired and dry rubber everywhere. Talking steering rack bushings, LCA bushings, UCA bushings, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, leaf springs and shackle bushings, carrier bearing, motor and trans mounts, vacuum lines. None of these break the bank by themselves, but pay a shop to do all or most of that, and you'll be looking at a steep bill. Best of luck.

 

NC truck - minimal frame rust. checked photos before purchasing.
When the salesman took it for an alignment, I asked them to check the ball joints which, reportedly, are ok.
Did not know valves need adjusting. Will check them myself. Is there a pdf shop manual in this forum?
Yes, I assume that bushings may be shot. Wondering if I'll need to replace anything when I install the shocks. Feels like a trans or motor mount may be a bit weak.

thanks!

 

Timmy the Toolman [Youtube Channel] does a whole video on valve clearance inspection and adjustment for both the 5vz-fe [v6] and 3rz [4cyl] engines. Highly recommend checking those and the rest of his videos out, the guy makes incredibly thorough tutorials that a trained ape could use to rebuild one of these motors [the videos are just that good].

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1999-3rz-fsm.491605/ - This thread has a link to a complete FSM for a '99 Tacoma with the 3rz [according to your handle your exact truck].

Regarding you having to replace anything else while doing the shocks, you won't really know without inspecting. May need new top hats for the coilover. If you're attempting to assemble the coilover yourself, you'll want to make sure you have new top hats and the shock body comes with new lower bushings for the bottom shock eyelet. If these 5100s represent a lift and change the CV angle, expect your CV boots to tear in short order after the fact.

 

Check the hoses for cracks leading to the brake booster first.
And no, not all models came with ABS.

You can check my signature for a link to FSMs on my Google Drive.

 

I was thinking about the vacuum booster; if my foot is firmly in place, loss of vacuum shouldn't cause loss of brake line pressure.
I did not see an ABS unit or lines, so surely I don't have ABS. I did not know some did not come with ABS. The dealer's ad said ABS. so I'll correct him.
No big deal, tho
thanks

 

I assumed the shocks won't add lift. I'll find out tomorrow.
no, the old CV joint boots probably won' be interested in stretching!
PERFECT - THANK YOU!

 

heard from the mechanic. it is not a wheel bearing, but in the front 4wd system. ugh!
said steering bushings worn (old bushings do die...) and rear brakes terribly out of adjustment.
he'll finish his analysis tomorrow. hoping for the best.

 

Have you engaged 4wd since you bought the truck (to check functionality)? If so did it work fine? Wondering what would be grinding within the 4wd system, with the manual hubs unlocked, while in 2wd. Sounds a bit fishy.

 

unlike the salesman and his mechanic inspector, i tested 4wd 3 times and it worked well.
i authorized the shop to replace the bearing and see what else may be damaged. i asked him if something could have been added to suppress the noise for a few days (about 600 miles). he said "yes" and they'll know once they get it apart this afternoon.

 

Well best of luck, I hope its not something devious to that effect and ends up being a simple fix. Keep us posted because I'm curious what could make that noise.

 

a friend told me he experienced serious grinding and clunking from a bad wheel bearing. Still hoping that is all that is needed.
I'll visit their shop this afternoon when they have it apart. This local garage has a great online system for inspection, quote and work approval.

 

As expected, Wheel needle bearing shot. axle fine.
Cannot get bearing without hub. Assembly available from Toyota about $300. No aftermarket due to manual hubs and nonABS (?!) except a $55 unit from a no name.
Ordered two from Toyota, keeping one for the other side for another time.
From Florida; no underbody rust, apparently never backed down brackish boat ramps.
Talked to xline undercoating but they only wash and don’t remove rust first. Looking for someone who does.
Planning to keep Taco for the long term.
Will fix oil leaks later that supposedly caused steering bushing failures that I’m having fixed now.
Like my latest purchase, a triumph Daytona 765; sometimes less weight trumps power! This truck is light. Looking forward to the Bilstein 5100’s.

 

Also, master cylinder leaking. Replacing booster too. Rear brakes far out of adjustment. Getting new shoes and wheel cylinders. Flushing with DOT4. Used car dealer replaced front pads