Picked up a high miles '06 RC 4x4 5 speed -- This is a rehab thread

I just picked up this clean '06 Tacoma from Virginia this past weekend and have brought it up north to Michigan. It's high miles at 254k miles but it's a model I have been looking for -- regular cab, 4x4, 5 speed, and as basic as can be. It has had the frame replaced and is relatively clean for the miles. All one owner since '06 and serviced at the same dealer. This thread is to start my journey with rehabbing the truck for light duty 3rd vehicle use. I have a shop on my property, a lift, and a hatred for rust. I POR15 and Fluid Film everything so this should get fun!

Here is a list of everything I have found wrong with it so far. I have been reading how-to guides on this site and there is a lot of info. Many orders have been placed at Rock Auto and Amazon to start working on it.

• Oil leak -- at least one from the valve cover gasket I ordered dye and will first degrease the engine and then add the dye and so where it is leaking.
• Random not starting After a lot of trial and error I found out it is the clutch switch that is going. The Clutch Start Cancel button is allowing me to start for now -- new switch on order.
• Tailgate doesn't fully latch -- Took apart and found the spring in one of the latches broke. New one on order. -- FIXED
• Tool box latches are not hooked up May remove the box -- it came filled with junk and I don't know if I like it yet.
• Shifter boot was disconnected from trim Fixed today my removing and cleaning the console and reattaching from underneath.
• Engine is very loud at lower RPMs -- possible manifold leak?
• Step bars are loose and they mount to the body mounts where have flexible rubber I bought stainless steel fender washers to try and tighten them up. If it doesn't work I will remove. I wish they bolted to the frame and not the body mounts.
• Check engine light is on P0420 Will try to diagnose if it is o2 sensor -- no inspections in MI and I will have the cat removed if needed.
• Drivers side CV boot is torn and has been for a while New axle ordered and will replace soon
• The window wind deflectors need replacing -- one has fallen off and the other is cracked May just remove

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The list of parts I have ordered is long...
- New rotors and pads
- Drum rebuild kit
- Valve cover gasket
- Spark plugs
- All new synthetic motor and trans, diff, transfer case oil
- Clutch switch
- Tailgate latch
- Oil leak dye kit

My most pressing issue are the oil leak(s) and the loud exhaust sound at lower RPMs and acceleration. After the major repairs are down I will prep the frame for POR15 and then Fluid Film spraying. My cosmetic fixes (sun bleached plastics, fogged headlights, etc.) to follow.

 

Certainly high miles, but not for the age. Condition trumps mileage any day in my book. Your truck still looks good. Not beat to hell or abused. The issues your truck has are mechanical, but not serious or sketchy, and to be expected given age & miles. The PO took care of it, but started to let things slide knowing his time with it was ending. I wouldn't fault him for that. But he obviously relied on it. By it having a set of Michelin LTX's on it speaks volumes.

Nice project.....and shop!

 

Very nice. Will definitely follow your progress!

 

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I’m hoping this will continue to be a fun adventure.

For progress last night/today I sprayed “Gunk” engine cleaner all over the top and bottom of the valve cover and engine so I could see where oil leaks are coming from. I dumped half a bottle of leak detection dye in there and drove ~50+ miles today. Upon initial inspection no leaks as of yet. Will keep looking with a black light over the next few days. I have a valve cover gasket kit coming soon and figure I need to replace it. Due to the appearance of an oil leak, rough running, and what I suspect is coolant use I will replace it regardless of seeing UV oil leaks externally.

Disc brakes, pads, and some POR15 products came in today. More work to be done in the new few days!

 

Love a good restoration story. Right on man!

 

Ok, got some updates. Most importantly I went through the effort of changing the valve cover gasket, testing compression, cleaning the MAF and throttle body, and new plugs last night. She runs great this morning so I'm not going to say it was a waste of time, but the valve cover gasket didn't appear to have any leaks and was still somewhat pliable. I am assuming that due to mileage this was replaced at least once in the past. Check out the color of the engine on the inside. I think I will get some Liqui Moly engine flush to clean that up a bit and do a double oil change.

Oddly enough my "no start" scenario due to the clutch safety switch was not due to the switch. I replaced it with a new one and when testing I see that the clutch pedal doesn't actually reach the switch most of the time. There is a bump out on the clutch pedal -- I will see I can add a block to it to actually meet the switch. The clutch engagement feels fine and the pedal goes, what feels like, completely to the floor so this one has me stumped.

Now onward to swapping the CV axle and flushing all of the fluids. Once I get it set mechanically I will then prep and paint/coat the frame. It's not getting driven here much and all of the salt is off the roads... for now.

 

That valve train looks pretty good, no sludge or nasty built-up residue. Was the underside of cover gunk-free?

 

There was some sludge on the underside of the valve cover but it wasn’t too bad. Hoping that cleans up with the engine flush.

On my hit list was the driver side CV axle — it had big rips in both boots. Replaced it tonight which I felt was a major accomplishment as I’ve never done something like that before. When pulling it and while it was out it was slowly trickling diff oil so I will replace that fluid soon as well. I laid out some paper towels to monitor overnight and see if it leaks at all. Also replacing rotors and pads since I’m in here with polymer/rust preventative coated ones because of where I live.

Also picked up a brand new set of Cooper all terrains in 265/75/16s. Looking to get those mounted this week once I get everything buttoned up.

 

Mines a v6 but I think the starters are very similar but not identical.

I had the same intermittent no start issue. I also found the clutch switch failing. Instead of replacing it I located the relay and did a bypass wire. No more stomp to start, mine doesn’t have a bypass button. The intermittent no start problem remained. With some TW diagnosis help, I replaced the starter solenoid contacts. It’s a kit sold by national starter, nation starter, something like that. Cranks up every time now.

I’ll take a high mileage vehicle that’s been taken care of over a low mileage one that wasn’t. Seeing how they have a reputation for lasting a really long time, I think you’ll be good. Many reach 350k, some 500k.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Rotors and pads finished and bedded and transfer case and rear diff fluids changed. The how to’s here make things easy.

My appointment for tire mounting was bumped back to Thursday, bummer. Picking up some cans of Rustoleum primer and paint tomorrow to paint my wheels after the tire mounting.

 

You and I have basically the same truck...mine is an access cab.

Check the carrier bearing and the u-joints. I would have said to replace your PCV valve while you had the valve cover off (it's a lot easier that way). Regardless use a Toyota direct PCV valve if you replace it, that will help keep your seals from getting over pressurized.

Check the coolant line running front to rear underneath the intake manifold. If it's plastic consider yourself luck and just buy the upgraded stainless steel one right now.

Do the uni-Filter mod right (cheap and well worth it)

If you have the P0420 it's 95% likely the cat(I say this mostly because of the leaking valve cover gasket)....the cats on rock auto are relatively cheap and work just fine in my experience.

The cat is pretty dang easy to do yourself....the bolts that go to the manifold usually come right off.....the two after the cat will be corroded as all get out....use a angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the bolts on the cat side and knock them out with a hammer, they will come right out and take you all of about 30 min start to finish....and if you have a lift that's super easy.

 

Forgot to ask....have you pulled off the serpentine belt and spun all your pullies by hand?

 

Oh man, you are giving me more work!

I didn’t mention it, but so far all fluids drained have looked amazing. If I had to guess the previous owner actually replaced the fluids before trading it in at the dealership where I bought it. Front diff and transfer case oil was still golden. Transmission and rear diff darker.

Tires mounted and started painting the wheels tonight. 3 coats of primer and 4 of paint. Going to switch the the color, it’s too dark.