Brake Override Malfunction

Unfortunately I wasn't. Took it to the dealership and they couldn't replicate the issue. They cleared the code and told me to bring it back for further diagnosis if it happened again. It's been 2 weeks and it hasn't reoccured so maybe it was just a one off glitch. I'm kinda thinking that based on everything I've seen and read that the throttle body might be the issue, not sure exactly how to test for that at home though

 

I also had what has been, so far, a one off glitch.

I started the truck in the morning on 3/26 and went back into the house. A few minutes later, I came back out and the "Brake Override Malfunction" error message was on the dash and the message about the malfunction in the "Smart Stop" system was on the touchscreen. Interestingly, the warning light went away as soon as the parking brake was disengaged.

After reading the forums, I tried to make a consolidated list of known causes:

• A blown 10A "STOP" fuse
• A blown or misplaced ETCS fuse
• Corroded third brake light wiring
• Failed or failing tail lights
• Stuck brake light switch (PN
  $29 84340-69025 Genuine Genuine Toyota Brake Light/Stoplamp Switch 84340-69025
  84340-69025)
• (Possibly) Bad throttle body/throttle position sensor (from your P2119 code)
• Hitting the gas and brake at the same time

I checked fuses and lights but couldn't find anything wrong. I brought the truck into the dealer this morning (and mentioned the list above).

They scanned for stored codes and the service writer told me they found about 30 low voltage codes. They checked the battery and found it to be borderline. Results below:



I am a little surprised they're saying it was the battery, especially since my error went away when I released the parking brake. Does that seem strange to anyone else?

Anyway, if I learn more, I'll update here.

 

Definitely interesting. I checked all of the fuses mentioned above when I had my issue and they're all good. The one thing I haven't checked yet is the wiring for the 3rd brake light, so maybe I'll see if that's corroded this weekend. The other thing I haven't looked at is the brake light switch, when I was in traffic prior to having this issue I noticed that the truck felt like it was bucking almost when I was just idling along with my foot on the brake.

 

Had this brake system malfunction issue happen today and it turned out to be an electrical short induced by cramming my ARE CX camper shell full in the back. The wiring disconnect up near the shell’s third brake light gotta bent or something. A five pack of fuses, this thread, two hours, and some beer solved the issue. I’m glad it happened when I was back in ‘civilization’ and not out in the high desert on some random trail with my family.

Obvious PSA: Carry extra fuses and be wary of exposed wiring.

 

Did you ever get this fixed?

 

My brake malfunction light came on locked transmission. Replaced 10 amp fuse marked stop fixed problem. Did you have to replace computer?

 

2017 Tacoma bone stock (minus the VLED rear brake light kit with resistors).

Hate to revive an old thread, this warning popped up on me briefly as I was making a right turn. I was about 45mph in, the light flashed and went away.

I stopped at the grocery store, drove home, again as I turned into my home the light came on.

Im about to check my fuses as well….

 

Replaced all the recommended fuses even if they looked well.

Reset the ECU…. Now another issue popped up.

Hitting the brakes cause the normal braking lamps to turn on but also my license plate ones as well.

Turning on my driving lights causes all my lights to stay on as if Im braking/holding the pedal down.

 

I found the culprit.

Long story short, one of my VLED’s on the right tail lamp was bad. I disconnected the plug and all my lights functioned we normal (including brakes).

I didnt have spare VLED replacements so I just inserted my factory bulbs for now.

Hopefully if anyone ever gets this alert. After checking all your fuses, Id go check your bulbs as well. (Disclaimer Im not too savy at all with electrical lol) I appreciate everyones posts through out the site to help me narrow it down.

Glad it wasn't a trailer harness connector issue.

 

After a heavy snowfall and cold up in the northeast, i kept getting "brake override malfunction". I noticed the third brake light was on when the headlights were on. If i kept lights on "DRL" mode, the error never came up. I checked fuses, changed the brake light switch. They didn't help. I checked the tail lights, and both the rear indicator lights were badly burned. It was causing a short! Replaced both and problem is gone.

I was freakin out for a sec there!

 

Great info, everyone! I wanted to chime in that this happened to my 2018 TRD OR today. After the message popped up while driving, I pulled over to restart the truck. It would not crank at all.

No stored codes came up with my OBD2 reader. It wouldn't "reset" by cycling through the ignition 6 times. I even disconnected the battery terminals for 10 minutes. Stil wouldn't crank.

I found this thread, and after reading through decided to check my 10A Stop fuse. Sure enough, it was blown. Replaced it, and the truck started right away. Everything is back to normal.

Thanks for the help!

 

Happened this am on my 2019 manual Sport. Limped the 2 miles home and grabbed another persons vehicle to get must done completed. Here is hoping TW threads come through. Do not want to go to dealership.

 

Update. Swapped out fuse. Worked but check engine light was still on.
Started again later - check engine light turned off.

no clue why it happened.

 

I'm having the same issue and have been stalking the forums for awhile looking for a solid fix.

I just bought my 17 sport used with 118k on it. I have been driving it since November of 24, but never had this issue until beginning of this year.

The P2119(x2) code always comes up saying that there is an issue with the "throttle body range performance" in my case, so I've cleaned that and the MAF a few times. That only seemed to be a temporary fix.

Limped the truck over to Toyota a month ago and they told me my MAF sensor wasn't reading the correct voltage. I told them to go ahead and change it since it was "covered" in my 6 month warranty. Ended up getting billed $393 for something I could've done myself at home, but they didn't cover the cost as it "wasn't under the list of items covered by the warranty." Anyway, they keep it until the following Monday to drive it around to see if it was truly fixed. I pick it up Monday night after work and we're good.

Two weeks later driving to work and it does it again, so I decided to just turn around and bring it to the house to grab my car. After work I went get some taillights bulbs and a new brake switch. I figured maybe the button was staying depressed/stuck, which would make the truck insinuate I was pressing the gas and brake at the same time. Changed everything out and cleared the codes. No issues.... for another two weeks.

Drove about an hour away to see some friends Saturday, truck was fine all day until I was leaving to head back home. Same thing happens. I turn the truck off, go pull the 10amp stop fuse and replace it, clear the codes, and I'm back on the road. Overall, I went ahead and changed the stop, ETCS, and all 3 ECU fuses to be safe as of Sunday. None of them were blown, but the metal prongs looked burnt.

It's pretty frustrating tbh, but I'm just trying to see if these minor fixes for common issues of the "brake override malfunction" will end up remedying my problem. If it happens again, I'll most likely just change my throttle body and cross my fingers that's the end of it. It could be the opposite of what I was thinking with the brake switch. The butterfly on the throttle body may just be sticking open, so when I press the brake it throws the code figuring I'm pressing both simultaneously. I'm just not too happy about the idea of changing it and the issue coming back up again.

Just wanted to share everything I've tried so far in hopes that it may end up helping you out. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing when my truck will randomly decide it wants to throw itself into limp mode.

 

^ Update: No issues since fuse changes in mentioned spots.