Brain's broken

yea, check out the gasket fully but didn't you state no water loss? the vent valve disconnect was your evap. codes.

 

I'm thinking it must be a way small leak. I don't think its losing enough to tell probably even in a week. I defiantly don't have water in my oil but seeing my coolant bubble for a minute is making me think that. The truck also has white exhaust all the time. Hard to know on that though because I think the warmest day we've had since October in Wyoming has probably been 36 degrees haha. When it bubbled it only bubbled for a few minutes and it was like 2 or 3 bubbles at a time. Once the truck warmed up the bubbles quit which makes sense why the truck starts fine when it's all the way warmed up. I haven't watched to see what it does all the way cold yet but it does idle rough for probably 15 seconds on a cold start.

 

the chemical test is best if you want to know. HGs are usually pretty obvious though. Now if you were experiencing unexplained coolant loss and looking for that...

 

That's the one I bought. It should be here Thursday

 

Alright so block tester showed up today. I also decided to buy brand new toyota spark plug wires. The wires I had were NGK's that were less than a year old. I let the truck sit for a couple hours and made sure the temp gauge was on cold (doesn't take much here in wyoming right now) started the truck and did the block tester. I shut the truck down just for fun when the temp got to where it has seemed to do the worst hard starts. Well this time started right up. Did the block tester until the engine got up to temp and the liquid never changed colors. So I'm wondering if maybe the #6 spark plug wire got messed up at some point from being taken off and put back on where its in a $#!% spot. So fingers crossed that's all it is. I'll run another block test when the truck sits over night and is way cold.

 

This morning it's 8 degrees. Started it and it had a little bit of a shake but not to bad. Did the block test and it never changed colors from cold to hot so thats a win on the head gasket anyways. I shut the truck off again when the temp needle got to C. Tried to start it and it still wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas like it was a old square body chevy and it did a cylinder 6 missfire code again.

 

Another update. I ran the truck until the temp needle got to the line for cold and pulled it all apart down to the injectors. I bore scoped down into the head from the intake manifold and I couldnt see anything that stood out . I pulled the injectors and #6 injector did have a smashed o-ring from when I installed it but after I put it back together I ran it until the temp needle came up to the cold line, shut it down and still hard started. All I can think is the sensor and computer aren't meshing at that one spot. I'm confident now though that I'm not leaking anything or doing anything to really hurt the engine so I'm just going to drive it how it is. If it ever gets worse and I figure out what it is ill come back to this post and update it but as of right now this will be it. Thanks everyone for all the help!

 

I broke down and bought a scanner to look at live data. Does anyone know if this looks right. It idles high now because I adjusted the screw on the throttle body which seemed to help it start a little better but still hard start/no start at the certain temperature.

1st picture is the cold start idle numbers

2nd picture was reving it up (debating on reving it even more just to blow the thing up and be done with it).

3rd is warmed up idle.

Sorry to keep this going but I'm going insane. It's pissing me off I can't figure this out and I know as soon as I'm in the middle of no where hunting it's going to leave me stranded.

 

Just did a compression test

Cylinder 1 - 120 psi

Cylinder 2- 120 psi

Cylinder 3 - 135 psi

Cylinder 4 - 110 psi

Cylinder 5 - 125 psi

Cylinder 6- 90 psi

I will be getting with the people that rebuilt the engine and getting this taken care of.