Wheel stuck on left rear

To add, when you get 'em off. Wire brush and never-seize the axle/hub centric's. They are a very tight tolerance on Tacoma's, hence the problem. Compounded when alloy wheels meet steel hubs for long periods of time...
When I run into this, I use a pry method from behind. Not a fan of beating on wheels/tires with anything.

 

I had the wheels rotated in the early Fall and all 4 were stuck solid this week. I drive in the snow regularly but in the 4 years owning the truck this had never happened before. Took a pry bar to get them off. I'd rather not have this happen again next Winter so am going to research what is the best material to use to help mitigate. Assuming I'll wire brush as well. Any first hand knowledge please chime in. I'm most concerned about being out somewhere with a blown tire and no way to pull it off...

 

Just became a member of this club.
I had other plans today.

 

5 hours later the wd40 and PB blaster take affect.

not a fan of these wheels. They are rusting on the inside…metal layer is peeling off.

 

cleaned up the drum..had it resurfaced. Those 20” wheels are not going back on.


Scored some new 16” take off wheels with new lug nuts and sensors for $200.

 

Just had to deal with this on my used 4Runner. Thread the lugnuts on finger tight (not ratchet tight, finger tight). Drive around your local residential block or in a parking lot making lots of left and right hand turns. Anyway, not likely to happen again with your steel wheels.

 

Anti-seize or bearing grease on the hub/drum face. You won’t have to go through this again.

 

Y

Yep bought the good copper stuff.

 

I just use cosmoline to avoid looking like the Tin Man after the job. Only places I use anti-seize are high-temp applications, like spark plug- or O2 sensor threads.

 

I rarely ever use Anti-Seize.
I guess I’m lucky, I live in the south.
We don’t deal with rust issue much.

I used to use anti-seize on spark plugs.
But any more, if it’s a silver colored thread plug, I skip it.
It can’t hurt, if you want to use it, go for it.

 

I am in the South too...i have started using it on threads...example bumper bolts.

 

I had this problem on a couple late model Superduty trucks (2011+). Even with the alloy wheels, the close tolerances would cause the hole in the center of the wheel to corrode with the matching concentric on the outside of the rear brake (rotor on a Superduty).
Usually once the lugs were off, a swift kick with the heel would dislodge it. If that didn’t work, a couple wacks with a 4’ length of 4x4 on the outer edge of the wheel would do it.
I learned that a good application of never seize on the back flat of the wheel was my friend…..