About to install RCI armor ... will dealer oil changes lose install hardware?

Front plate has 4 front bolts that are just bolts. Rear two bolts have a space.

Transmission plate shares rear bolts of front plate for its front, and a spacer-pattern for rear bolts.

When dealers/others change oil I have heard they may drop the plates instead of using the door in the plate. With so much specialized install hardware, am I at the point of either (A) doing all service myself or (B) dropping plates for an oil change to ensure I keep all of the hardware?

 

Do it yourself, it’s cheaper and you know the hardware won’t be lost.

 

How did I know that would be answer? Seems I need to get a Fumoto valve in time for the 15,000 change.

 

I can do those services, even transmission I can learn.

What services do I need to drop the plates for to avoid losing the install hardware, assuming at some point the people need to inspect parts underneath the plate?

 

I dropped my plate when I did my front differential service.

 

Dealer will lose bolts and/or strip treads on whatever they touch.

Plate only needs to be removed to do front dif or trans fluid. Not sure if you can reach to grease front drive shaft with plate on.

Be careful not to pool oil on top of the plate when it drains. I had that happen last time.

 

So transmission service needs plate dropped ... hmm. At least it is not every 5k or 10k.

I could drop the engine plate for the first oil change I do myself to install the Fumoto and avoid oil on the plate.

 

If you insist on the dealer doing the oil change, remove the skid plate beforehand. They will likely cross thread bolts etc. The techs get paid very little for an oil change, which leads them to rush the job.

 

Figured that. A discussion about not wanting to install cat plates but instead laying traps got me thinking on this. Timing was right because my front skid arrived 2 hours ago and the transmission+cat is assembled and ready. I am technically working for a while longer so cannot dedicate install time yet.

Also, my Corolla I let other do the work because I installed almost nothing beyond phone holders. This Tacoma is a different story.

 

You could just tell the service writer or tech about the spacers.
A little bit of communication can go a long ways.
Not all techs and lube guys are idiots.

 

i would take the plates off before getting the service and avoid any issues

 

Front plate just needs tightened. But now transmission plate.

 

I have a mobtown skid (RIP) no issues with them losing hardware when doing changes. My cousin is my service advisor though. YMMV

 

My dealer may or may not be as courteous, but time will tell.

Watch for photos and commentary in "What did you do to your 3rd Gen today?" ...

 

Take the plate off before going? Maybe they will appreciate you helping them out.

 

Having learned the trick of maneuvering 40 lbs of transmission plate flat on your back under the truck ... I can manage removing front plate without removing transmission, remove transmission again and reinstall, or both. I will not blame the forum for not advising me good ways to do that because I have learned from my slightly-more-than-a-few-years that one must learn their own ways. Besides anyone who decides to build a dense block of 2x4s instead of buying commercial plastic ramps that may or may not break probably cannot learn except the "hard way" regardless.

 

I take my skids off before I take it in. Figure it makes it easier on them and I like to drop them now and then to clean all the shit out from under them. I also don't want them hastily putting them back on with an impact since they're only supposed to be torqued to 30 ft lbs.

 

You can do it either way. I have full rci skids from front to back. And I like to remove them every year at least. If you have skids, you 4x4... they pack up with brick mud that actually can catch fire in super dry places like Wyoming Colorado... so keep em clean. Also. If you add A-arm plates you need to keep them very clean. They make a lot of metal to metal contact with your a arm and you don't want that buildup to rust... trust me...

But to answer your question. RCI built in proper drain holes for all their plates including rear diff. You do not need to remove them. Especially if you do not live in fire danger regions.

I only remove a plate when I need to hammer it back into shape because its bent to fuck and rattles.....

 

Thanks for that advice. I purchased the steel skids instead of aluminum. I live in Phoenix where cold usually does not effect me, unless I want to go to Flagstaff area during winter, but good to know thin nylon spacers to supplement big ones exist.

I see the hole for oil change, but will drop front skid for next oil change to install the Fumoto valve and after that do not have to drop except for front differential fluid swap.

Transmission plate drop needed for transmission service but that is far off. At least I determined a less-straining way of holding 40 lbs of steel plate level in place for installation or to hold while the front plate is dropped.

 

toyota ones specialize in stripping stock skid bolts.

their techs also probably do not do 0.3 LOF’s nor does an advisor have power to yank a tech off an engine job using up his bay for a LOF.

there has been a tech shortage due to low pay. That means not enough people, so dealers hire anyone. And the kind of people showing up for less than they’re worth or are legitimately worth less. Add to that Toyota from a “work for this company standpoint” is at the bottom. That explains who will work on your car.

tickets are done in a lottery style random locate function. There is no determination which of 30 people gets your RO.

the advisor will probably not notate the skid and say they did. It does not need notating. A mechanic can see it has a skid and assume a 4x4 does. They’re not that heavy by hand, nor install differently. Shops have pole jacks for things like this.

if you want good work you find a good tech and pay him $50/hr.