TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Figs

 

Insulation works both ways. Can repeal outside heat but retain it longer as well in this example. Best methods for cooling will be air flow for the heat exchanger and circulation with the coolant. There have been instances where a spacer for the intercooler lid has provided a cooling benefit in other applications like in the gm world. Porting can also be beneficial.

 

Figs Engineering out of Denver, CO

https://shopfigs.com/v5/L1030

 

I know. But in this example the heat soaked coolant from the SC would be insulated from heat loss, which is unwanted. It would be insulated from gaining heat from the engine bay which I would think would be a much smaller amount for total heat gain vs loss.

 

Yep. Gotta be careful what you insulate. As it can have a negative effect on what you're trying to accomplish and only make things worse. Superchargers are convection ovens by nature and create a lot of heat soak in the engine bay. Roots, TVS or Twin Screw style. They all make things hotter. Including engine oil temperatures.

Anything that uses plastic like composite style intake manifolds are great for repelling heat in the short term, but once they heat soak it is really really hard for them to shed that heat.

Aluminum is the only way to go as far as best heat dissipation properties are concerned. They are capable of absorbing it quickly, yes, but they dissipate it just as quickly as they absorb, so at the end of the day you want the best heat extraction possible and outside of meth/ water or interchiller there isn't much else you can do to alleviate it.

 

They make superchargers for the 2GR but I’ve only seen it on lexus RC/IS/GS applications. You might get more support from supercharging an LX (same 5.7 as your truck) than a GX if a family hauler is what you are looking for. I had been following RR-racing for a while as they were gathering interest for boosting the GX but those efforts fell flat a few years back as no one seemed to care. XAT sells one for the GX but I remember seeing a couple of Aussies making kits in the past. I don’t think you’ll find a better boosted set up on a Lexus than you had on your X-tundra.

 

I hadn't really considered the LX570 until now. Looking at the overall dimensions of the 2008-2015 models, it is considerably smaller than the Tundra I'm in now. I should also be able to swap over the current supercharger to it. Also the 22" TRD Forged wheels...this may be my current top option!

 

Didn’t someone in here get a Lexus IS 500 F or a RC F?

 

@o0opackersfano0o got one

 

Suggest you remove that heat shield!!

The heat source is the compressed gas (air) generated at the rotors and pressurized side of the intake, temperature and pressure are married, for any given gas, and will rise and fall together. Your insulation is sealing in heat that would otherwise escape to the engine compartment. Adding insulation only helps if under hood heat is higher than the compressed gas; not at all likely while going down the road.

Add cooling fins to the housing and vent the hood, would be a possible improvement.

 

With a long enough PTFE tube on the siphon side, absolutely! This thing works great at keeping the basket full, I enlarged my stock inlet hole and snaked it through that. I also made a couple of ball check valves to allow more fuel in and try to prevent fuel leakage out of the basket.

 

Alright boys. Back on my broken bolt crusade. As usual I seem to always get the bad luck, as this time I'm dealing with a broken head bolt inside of my GM LT block assembly. Local machine shops are a no go and this lady who a lot of places use is probably a no go as well because she is super flaky, so that leaves me to my own devices.

I got about 2" worth of depth to deal with before I touch the broken bolt itself and 1.5" worth of bolt that is stuck up in there. Here are some photos of the damage.





Anyone got any ideas on what the heck I could use to get this thing out of there? Worse... These idiots at GM put loctite on all their crap too. Which may further complicate things. I HATE TTY bolts.

 

looks strangely familiar.

 

The Hinge Sighting Drill with left handed drill bit sounds promising, never heard of the hinge sighting attachment before. Lots of next day options on Amazon

$23 6pcs Hinge Drill Bit,Self Centering Hinge Cabinet Door Wood Drill Bit Set 5/64 7/64 9/64 11/64 13/64 1/4

https://www.amazon.com/6pcs-Hinge-D...ds=hinge+sighting+drill&qid=1681412184&sr=8-5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

 

When it snaps like that, you don't have to worry about the bolt clamping so usually it's fairly easy to remove. But that loctite might make it at least more annoying. I'd get a pen torch and craftsmen easy out. I used one on my broke block

 

That's my worry is the loctite. Of course the depth is what is also sort of worrying me as well. I have a torch but no way will it reach that deep. (Then again, it might) the bolt was somewhere around 60-65 ft lbs when it snapped so I am thinking it should indeed be easy to get out, but it's a matter of getting a hold of it in the first place.

 

I got an is500

 

maybe a center punch on it before extraction with a hammer tap could break the loctite bond to make for an easier removal. an obvious idea but all i could think of if i were doing that.

 

@JustDSM or any other guru. Posting here to see if y'all have any clue. We have several members over on the Tundras s/c thread that are having issues with long crank starts, and the common denominator seems to be the 750cc injectors.

Trying to find settings in HPT to adjust to help

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-254#post-3157756

 

are they fic's? im having a similar issue with my fic's. while it could be the fpr/pump im thinking the issue is most likely the fic's and will do some troubleshooting this weekend. supposedly the injector dynamics are better they are still a larger injector and i would think it would have the same issue.