1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Just seems really odd. There's no technical reason you couldn't ground to a Haltech ground. If I were rewiring all this though, I would go get an ethernet cable and just use two of the shielded pairs in my harness.

Crank:


Cam:


Their outputs are that different, but the noise floor actually isn't that bad, so you can use fairly low voltages when necessary



And this should be around 800RPM, for reference. Trigger shows peak about 2.5V, Home shows an astonishing >6V. Higher RPM = larger pulses.

 

Even the Haltech separates its ground planes for different things internally. Anyway, you and I think alike, I was going to use some plenum rated CAT 6a if I couldn't find where the pairs were joined. I can take pics later but about 3" further down the harness you can see where the cam and crank signal cables enter into a shielded twisted pair jacketed cable so now I should be just as good as if I had run new cabling.

 

It's crazy how much more voltage is generated by the home tooth. That's a nice clear o-scope view, mine had more noise.

 

What's crazy to me is I think those little bumps near the 0V level are the timing belt ribs since they're so periodic

 

Maybe that's why HKS won't make us a reinforced T-belt

 

You guys are doing the lord’s work in here, I’m just trying to follow along and pick up the salient points for my Haltech standalone setup.

 

We (the collective we) will get you sorted. And when you come over to put that thing in, I won't let you leave until it's right

 

I ran into that, replaced cam sensor and that helped and was able to up the limiter values. Was able to increase sensor voltage to better values.

 

By far the best deal I've found on the AMP Superseal terminals if you're willing to wait for them to come across the ocean: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255975846627

 

Not bad at all, it's about $5 for 10 of them from DigiKey but it gets cheaper as you buy more

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-1447221-5/5437783

 

Ya but how much is shipping? Usually kills small orders from places like that

 

I didn't look for single items, my digikey cart always has stuff waiting it in for other projects so when theres enough I buy.

 

Digikey shipping is usually pretty reasonable. So is Mouser

 

I love buying from Mouser but lately I feel like they've positioned themselves from an everything electronics shop to a niche specialty parts shop.

 

It's never been cheaper than like $5.99 for me, and I'm pretty sure when I checked on this a few weeks ago it was closer to $10, for an order of 25. So a dollar a piece.. Not good, and that's the price per unit I was seeing everywhere until I found that ebay listing.

That's my case anyways, the info is out there now..

 

Removed my AEM FIC-6 wiring and started getting after it. Maybe it'll get done this weekend. Good to see y'alls Haltech sensor configurations. I appreciate the sharing of knowledge.

Sorry I've been slow: work has been intense these past two weeks... nearly lost a virtual machine that would have taken down production. Buuuuuuut, I got a new (to me) toy.

08' Kawasaki ZX-10R. I had a black one back in the day.

 

The Holley setup has to be totally separated as well. My dash has its own run and loomed, ecu same and the rest of wires running to back by themselves. Ecu has a dedicated battery post neg/pos. All wires are twisted. They are like very specific about this in the wiring setup manual and how bad it can skew sensor readings. Im no electrical engineer so I followed those instructions to a tee.

 

If it helps anyone, the pull-down resistors in the E2500 on AVI 2, 3, and 4 (pins 16, 17, and 2 on the 34 pin) appears to be 11kohm.

 

Okay continuing my stream of consciousness on this one, I had my rules setup improperly but ACT does need to be an output on the ECU so I had that right at least.

So this is the correct config of the rules, been a minute for me with binary logic, forgot I could just use "or" rules. This lets the Haltech turn the AC off using the ACT wire when there is higher RPM (ie during a pull or passing) and as a safety if the engine is heading for an overheat condition.



Wiring on whatever output you chose to allocate to it should look like this...



And the generic output main settings should be roughly like this, this keeps the AC from turning on and off too rapidly (from a rough idle condition perhaps)

 

Makes sense.
What's the importance of this anyway? Have you been in an overheat scenario where you weren't cognizant enough to turn the AC off?