SR/SR5 LED Headlight harness V2

Edited to add resistors (keep in mind resistor(s) values to "normalize" flash is different depending on vehicle add-ons)

 

MX150's to Headlight:

Corresponding mating connectors to vehicle connectors (DRL/TURN/HAZARD GROUND plugged on receiving side):


One wire to cab for DRL added relay, inserted to connector 1F_30 (at Main Body ECU) with female terminal Sumitomo 8100-3529.

 

Relay interrupts the SR DRL/TURN signal
Power to actuate the relay comes from tap to DRL wire (added circuit) and TAIL circuit. Diodes keep circuits apart. When Low Beams are selected the DRL circuit is disabled, an OEM feature, leaving Tail circuit to continue providing juice.
This relay (one per side) provides turn feature without DRL in same circuit as the SR has.

 

DRL detail:

 

TURN Control (DRL disable on same wire, SR OEM feature)

IGN sourced power to added 5 pin relay, 30 & 87a NC, provides ground to relays at each headlight connector. Triple diodes provide ground to this relay coil to disable ground that the relay provides, returning relays at each headlight to enable turns/hazards.
At vehicle OFF the added turn relays at each headlight rest at TURN circuit.

 

Once low beams are selected, DRL relay looses ground, system looses DRL. LED headlight DRL goes to DIM via TAIL circuit input. Added relays remain functional via Tail circuit via diode to added relays.

 

Sealed fender box for relay and diodes near headlight (x2) and resistor for hyperflash issues (a few choices to install):


Adding interior relay and triple diode:

Stand alone is another option.

 

Engine bay parts & links.

Waytek

 

Alternate cab part:

 

Excelente explain, but do you know someone have this harness plug/play ready to sell?

 

I need one.

 

Plenty to love but basically the full Monty. Johnny has done a handful of these, different specifics but same basic plan. Takes a special someone willing to install all this stuff. And it’s a solid $100+ in raw parts.

what the people want is a $50 solution. Well, they really would prefer a $20 solution but they would be happy with $50-$80. I keep trying to think of something.

A custom board might be the cleanest. Even if it needs an external power source.

 

I'm not too concerned with price. Seems no one is making one to sell anymore, is my concern.

 

Interior relay & diode set up. (Overbuilt)

 

Caribe, you haven’t addressed hyperflashing. That’s a big part of the PIA. Another wrinkle is Oem tails vs VLED vs MESO vs aftermarket.

 

For hyperflash, one must play with the various versions of resistor. There are so many versions/types to chose from and so many cheap/butcher resistor adds to the other proper installs. All work, one will last longer than others.
As for any rear turn issues due to adding other mods, there are many solutions on the Forum. Easy to address/fix.

 

Agree 100% on everything except the last sentence.

 

So there are fellas driving with bum rear add on's? Poor fellas

 

Well, based on the cryptic comms I get, there are all sorts of people having all sorts of problems and no real clarity on what. I get problems reported via email and DM, usually at night / on weekends. I get incomplete information and I have to ask for photos. Since many of the problems are reported via reply to auto generated order confirmations, I assume many of my responses go to spam. Tambien, algunos no escriban en Ingles muy bien.

At $10 each, if I were to include 2 sets of resistors, that'd be $40 of cost and I wouldn't even know how to advise on which to use.

I don't have a 3rd gen SR to test with and even if I did, I don't have all the taillight variations, temperature variations and potential model year variations to cover all bases on guidance. It's a "try out resistors till it works" situation. Which is 100% a-ok for DIY cookbook but not at all OK for a product sold to a paying customer.

Hence, where my head is at right now, some sort of board which monitors the voltages on the drl/turn wire and detects pulses without modifying load, a packet sniffer if you will. Then I guess something to cover the bulb to insulate from heat and block light output unless we could somehow find a resistor which exactly matches the bulb's characteristics. External power would then be sent to turn, matching the flash rate of the pulses, or DRL when constant non-pulsed is detected. Hopefully via mosfet on the board.

I had hopes that the cheapo Curt would get it done, especially since it's already waterproofed, but it flashes out of phase and that pretty much kills it.