New England B.S. Thread

By all means I did them with fingers first, then Lightly ratchet, then torque to spec

 

Looks fine, 1-2 of mine had the same staining at 107K when I replaced em

 

I start by reversing them until you feel the threads drop then thread then in. Finger tight then torque down as needed. I know some stuff is "1/4 turn after X ftlbs" or whatever too. I think plugs have a torque spec to them. One of the things I will absolutely torque to an OEM spec.

 

Yeah. Mostly the X torque spec plus 1/4 or 1/2 a turn things are referred to as 'torque to yield'. Any fasteners that follow this need to be replaced every time they are taken off.

In olden days, when I was a kid, it was very common for spark plugs to be 'hand tight' plus some amount of turn. I feel like most manufacturers have switched to publishing a torque spec for plugs.

 

This is exactly how/ what I said to him.

I don't think any were cross threaded... went in too easy to have been.

 

The firehose work pants are great and practically indestructible , except fire, fire can burn them.

 

The Granville scoop Granville, Mass. has good ice cream too and they make their own cheese right on site as well, good prices and friendly staff as well

 

And...he's driving a Tacoma

 

Wait how did they stop his big afro from catching fire? LoL !
Fire retardant jerry curl hair gel...

 

I don't have any of those, but the pockets in the jeans I have are made of the same material. It does seem pretty tough.

 

You're welcome

 

I think it was less necessary to torque spark plugs when heads were cast iron. Aluminum is generally softer and thus it's a lot easier to damage the threads and so it's more important not to over crank on them.

 

the bigger question or argument is ant seize or not. Im an engineer, i understand all the coefficient stuff. Some mfr's state they have a special coating. I still cant bring myself to not put any, so i apply a light coat and torque 80% or so. Havent had a problem, but has anyone had a stuck plug not applying anything and torqueing normal?

 

I've never had an issue so far (knock on wood), if you're concerned you can get the engine nice and toasty and then do plugs. It's not ideal, but it's actually a trick for doing Ford 5.4L 3valve triton motors

 

Were those the motors that were known to shoot out plugs?

 

I use anti-seize, but also do not torque spark plugs. I don't use anti-seize on lug nuts, I know that's a big topic of debate. I use anti-seize on the mating surface between the wheel and hub.

 

They liked to snap.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_broken_spark_plug_problem.htm

I think it's wider spread than that article gives credit, my cousin in a later model F150 had the same problems. He rebuilt an F100, works on cars all the time for fun, that is one thing he (and I agree with him) will just take the dealership and pay flat rate, because if (when) they snap, that's on the dealership's dime and time now

 

No, they were the ones that used the funky plugs that liked to break off in the head.

 

Lugs - wheel bearing grease. Not anti seize, but i have a tub and it's worked well for me. Need to re-up when I take my wheels off next. Will probably do some on the hubs, I have to kick the s*** out of the wheels to get them off

Yeah I'm a little bit slap dash with maintenance at times, it happens. Will be doing anti seize or grease on my skid plate bolts going forward

I don't add anything to the spark plugs, the torque spec is usually pretty low, I use my bicycle torque wrench for it.

 

ive been using waterproof grease on the mating surfaces of the wheel. Hard to say, but feel like its been working better than when i used antiseize. Whatever works for you, but if you feel you need a change give it a whirl. I used maxima which is safe for brake parts, so i figured it would stay in place better. use a real thin coat.