Dometic Hardwire Kit Install - In Bed Side Pocket Above Wheel Well - 2nd Gen AC

Here's an example (not my truck) but should give you an idea.

 

That's definitely less exposed...just wanted to avoid drilling a hole in the bumper for now...We'll see how she goes.

Are there any safety concerns I should be aware of running that 110? @bagleboy @6 gearT444E

I'm assuming it's grounded through the outlet on the building where I plug in...

 

@bagleboy I checked last night and it does look like there is a missing grommet...definitely carpet padding. Any idea how to get a replacement for that?

 

Should be no concerns, yes the plug will be grounded through the outlet, do NOT tie the AC ground to the chassis. Ground fault protection will be through the extension cord and back through the breaker. I would recommend when using the 110V plug to use a GFCI protected power source.

You'll have to measure the hole diameter, but here are the grommet and plug P/Ns

 

What's the point of Dometic hardwire kit?

I got it. Possibly mistakenly. At least it has a universal socket, not ARB fridge threaded only.

Here is what don't get.
Solar 100w, plug it into powerstation.
Fridge, plug into powerstation.
Powerstation, plug into what?
Truck bed would be awesome, more than cab.

But here's the problem. In the cab, cig lighter port (for power station charging) is only on with key on. Great. Charge while driving from alternator.

But a 12v hardwire to the bed? That will probably be on *all* the time.
So if plug a power station into that, then it'll be on all the time and drain the battery.

Do you see what I'm trying to do?
What's the best way to do it? Is Dometic hardwire kit even needed?

Unless you add a flip switch into the cab to control it; which just adds wiring...

jury-rig would be open the back, get in, unplug the socket to turn truck off. Then to drive, go back there, plug it in. Every time. There has to be a better way

 

As you describe it, no, their wiring kit isn’t for you.

If you didn’t have the power station, and instead ran the fridge off the truck battery (using its voltage cutoff to protect your starting ability), the kit would be for you.
…and solar to MPPT controller to battery.

 

there's probably a way out there somewhere
saw a wiring schematic on a Jeep forum of how people are doing it, wiring it to automatic power on relay

Or, into bed outlet, but that wastes energy using the inverter

Or, I could potentially keep EcoFlow behind center console. Charge with cig lighter.
Then instead of Dometic using a wall-style plug into the EcoFlow (short distance)
it will be too far, if placed in bed
so a regular extension cord long enough could link the two, if it can be snuck in somewhere

kind of screws with solar panel though, was originally gonna put 100w with the connections at the rear, snaked in through the back glass (if they fit)
instead of towards the front

 

Truck to truck inverter to battery box loses a lot of power.

You have options; it depends on your use case.

 

All you need to do is power the 12v supply off a relay that gets triggered on with ignition, no switch needed.

If solar is in the works then I’d suggest developing a plan based on that and whether you plan to include a house battery. Once you start making decisions the options narrow. Don’t like the options? Rethink the decisions.

 

I have a Dometic CFX-75 in the bed of my truck. I ran a 10ga wire from a X2 31M battery to the rear storage box on the passenger side. I hooked up a small Blue Sea fuse box and from that I did I power outlet and a couple of USB ports. I added a circuit breaker in line at the battery. For the power outlet I used an ARB outlet, because you can screw in the plug from the fridge. The Domestic fridge should have a low power Battery protection cutoff to save the battery, at least my does, low=11.4v/med=12.2v/high=12.6v.
I know the battery protection works, as I am in the need of adding a second battery or solar to keep the fridge on.