LBJ Failure - Questions - please help

Nope.

 

What is the difference?

 

There are multiple threads covering this, but simple answer is no.

The Sankei 555 are the best alternative to OEM, but it's best to just stick with OEM LBJs and bolts.

 

I know a few members that do run Sankei 555 and due to their low cost, replace them once a year.

 

I am not really an off roadster. I have a modest lift for the occasional romp, but I won’t be beating up my LBJ and I barely put 5,000 miles a year on it.

 

OEM LBJs aren't for off roading, they're the most commonly reconmended LBJ in the 1st Gen section regardless of vehicle use.

You'll be safe on those 555s, just keep another set on hand since they're cheap anyway.

 

Only the OEM LBJs are made to Toyota's exact specifications, regardless of whether the company that produced them sells them under their own name. But that being said they are widely considered to be the best aftermarket OE style, here's a post with some great info comparing the two. When opened up there are some key differences that definitely make them not equal to OEM.

IMO the OEM ones really aren't that much more expensive and worth the peace of mind...but at the end of the day you have to check them regularly OEM or not, and replace accordingly

 

Damn you. I just cancelled the Sankei and ordered OEM. $200 more for OEM

 

Where did you order OEM from?

I don't want to rain on two parades but they are usually cheapest online through McGeorge Toyota, they were $116 per side for my 96 4runner which uses almost identical ones (just the outer tie rod mount is a little different).

My local dealer wanted somewhere north of $200 per side

 

I used mcGeorge Toyota as a reference to get my local dealer down to $160 per side. McGeorge was $126 plus shipping.

 

Nice, my local dealer won't price match unless it's a "local" competitor

 

While we're on LBJ's from mcgeorge...
43340-39245 is 74.16, 43340-39585 is 126.24, and states that it includes bolts, castle nut and cotter pins.
The cheaper one has an image that suggests that it includes the castle nut but nothing else. I was planning on buying the ARP nuts anyway...
Is this truly the only difference?!

 

Both those say they fit my 1996 4runner but not a 1996 Tacoma (per the website), did you verify fitment? The 4runner LBJs are a little different to accommodate the different outer tie rods they run

 

I've entered my VIN, and when I scroll down it says it fits '96 tacoma 3.4...

 

4Runner LBJs are different from Tacoma LBJs.

To use one set on the other, you'll also need TREs that would follow said vehicle.

 

My 2 cents:
I know it’s not a popular opinion but, I would replace the cv yourself with a oriellys/ autozone cv. It’s a lifetime warranty on their parts so if it breaks again all it costs you is sweat. That being said, between my two cv’s I am on number 4 (three passenger one driver) but I also ride my truck hard and put it up wet. I’d rather replaced them when I break them for free than pay someone to do it. Not for everyone, to each their own.

 

Sometimes dealer websites can contradict themselves when it comes to part number verifications....I would verify it on this website instead, you enter your VIN and it will give you the exact part numbers per the diagrams for your exact vehicle

www.partsouq.com

 

It’s all fixed.

 

Did you replace the cv axle?

 

No, better. They were out of stock everywhere. So my mechanic offered to rebuild the factory cv axle with a new boot. So that was better for me.