$10 DIY Power Lock Tailgate

Excellent question! Someone else that knows will answer I am sure.

Welcome to the forum

 

Thank you lots of great info on here!

 

Just none from me apparently. I know squat, or less than squat about electrical.

 

i just got my actuator to do this. when i hook it up to battery to test it. it extends but doesnt stay extended completely, is that normal

 

which one did you buy?

 

It seems like mine doesn't stay fully extended if I recall correctly but just by a fraction of an inch. What is yours doing?

 

$9 Etopars Black Car Plastic Universal Heavy Duty Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire 12V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723CH2YD

Just seems to extend 90% of the way, but doesn't retract if I disconnect and reconnect

 

I used one of these to control the choke for a remote start control I built for a generator. To get it to retract you need to switch the positive and negative leads. The easiest way was to have two buttons for the choke.

 

Ahhhhhh, so prob work when hooked up to switch. Thanks

 

That should be correct. I have one like yours as well and it will need to be hooked to the truck wiring for the door in order for it to work in both directions.

 

Will this mod work on a 2nd gen?

 

Thought I would post that I did this mod on my 2018 and it's still going strong.

 

Reviving an old thread, has anyone tried using the wiring from pop-lock with an aftermarket actuator.

 

Thanks for the design. Not sure if its bug in the file or something with cura. what is the size of the box? 100% shows 5.75/3.75/2.25 which judging by the size of the actuator is too small. Also do you mind sharing the actuator that you fit in your Tacoma!

 

What scale did you print @Afilao design? When loaded in its original size in cura or prusa it's way too small. Just trying to avoid reprinting it multiple times! TIA

 

I've measured the distance between the two screws on my handle. I get 53.28mm. If I measure the distance in the STL, I get 20.85 mm... so the ratio is around 2.55 which is very close to the conversion between imperial and metric.

But if I open it in Orca Slicer.. I get a warning that the model is too small and it rescales it to the right size.

I will print it and test it.

 

Finally weather got better and did with @Afilao 3D design and the original idea of @MESO Thank you all for contributing!

 

I went another way. I decided to take the oem mount points and placement (I don't care about the noise and elements). Designed it with Fusion. Spent a half of PLA roll on trial and errors. I've used a cheap actuator from Addison, local Montreal (1.99 CAD) but you can find it anywhere online. I've 3d printed an axle nut (use a M6 from a Princess Auto Axle nut kit), with a tight fit. You might want to glue it if you use the printed one.

Let me know if you have better ideas.
Grab the STLs: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6988882

 

Sounds and looks intriguing, tinkering and trial and error, the beauty of 3D printing