Long Travel BS Thread

Those +2” McNeil bedsides?

 

Dropping the swingaways?

 

yes, 2"

 

Joe at outgear is a cool dude. and the bumper is solid AF. your truck is bad ass, what shell is that?

 

Yeah, thinking about putting the spare flat at the front of the bed but my whole idea will only work if i convert to 4 link and do a fuel cell with a larger capacity so i can ditch the jerry cans. There are a couple of places that we like to go where the extra 5 gals in the jerry can is mandatory.

 

Thanks, it is the Snugtop Super Sport with the frameless glass. It is all torn apart right now because I am basically widening the base of the shell to match the curvature of the +6 bedsides

 

Makes sense, I keep waffling on if I want the swingaways on my bumper rebuild or not. I don't do as much fast stuff as most guys here [for as flat as MN is, there's not a ton of open areas lol], but that much weight out back is pretty annoying.

Outgear does make a high-clearance with a swingaway that looks pretty cool.

 

Any tips on getting uniballs back in their place?

I have some 1” and 1.25” press cups from Trail Gear, which worked well to get them out.
Problem is I can’t get them to stay straight past the snap ring clip.

 

It takes finesse. Don't force them too much or you'll damage the cup. You'll have to apply a little pressure but not too much. I personally use anti seize as a lubricant and to make removing them in the future a little easier. Maybe a little scotch brite to the cup to make sure there are no burs?

The key is obviously to apply even pressure but that's easier said than done.

 

Did both of those. Thoroughly cleaned the cups as they were long over-due. Anti sieze as well :/

 

Put the uniballs in the freezer and heat the cups with a crack torch, they will drop right in

 

Got em in the freezer too lol !

I usually do this method for bearings but wasn’t sure how to apply heat with anti seize in the mix.

Do you still recommend it ?

 

heat it up than wipe with anti seize right before you drop the uniballs in if your worried about it. Or get some 2400 degree anti seize.

 

You really don’t want any kind of lubricant between the cup and uniball. Uniball in the freezer for the day and you could even put the cup in the oven for a bit at 350-400. Like Harry said, they should literally drop right in.

 

I’ll try some heat today & Check what my anti sieze is rated up to.

Ty TW per usual for the help !

 

Adding heat worked like a charm.

last dumb question before I start putting stuff back together this weekend:

Below are photos of where my alignment tabs were adjusted before disassembly & the print out from the last alignment that was done just before the work I’m doing.
I have heim adjustable upper arms.

Passenger:


Driver:


Print out:


Is there anything I can do with the upper arms to help my alignment guy out?
The Heims are currently 1/4” out of the arm. I have lots of room lady to lengthen either side of the upper arms.

It seems to my I knowledgeable eye the driver side is all the way adjusted inward. Meaning he’s struggling to get enough positive camber. And the passenger side is wonky as the truck took a pretty good hit last year on that side, cracking the Camburg LCA. Tabs are bent but that’s for another year. They way the passenger side is adjusted now seems like he’s wanting to push the LCA/Spindle joint forward.

my idea is to
• lengthen the both driver side heims maybe 1/8” more to help regain positive camber
• lengthen the passenger side rear heim 1/8” to help regain positive camber, and maybe a little more on the front passenger heim to pull the UCA/Spindle joint rearwards — allowing the two LCA tabs to be in a more symmetrical position and get the passenger side caster closer to the driver side.

Any alignment guys have any input?

 

nut

 

@Sterling_vH111 of all that info the only thing that really stood out to me was.... you're still running 265/65s!? lol

Those numbers are pretty messed. Do you have an angle finder? If you already have the coilovers out you can measure your alignment by setting your arms where you'd normally be at ride height with your wheels off and do your camber referenced off the side of the frame and your rotor and your caster from the bottom of your frame and a decent flat spot on the bottom of the spindle or at the end of a lower spindle bolt that is big enough that the angle finder will not wiggle around on it while being upside down like it is on the frame. Taking the measurements off of the bottom of your frame and that spindle surface will get you close enough to make it to the shop can so they can do minor adjustments.

- I was thinking about this and oem spindles usually might not have a horizontal surface to measure off, so if you have spindle gussets or something even and easy to measure off of you can still get a measurement off of a vertical side of them in a parrallel plane to the side of the frame. It won't be the exact caster number but it will give you the relative angle from one side to the other to see if they are off and be able to even them out using the side that has the lower caster angle when at 0* camber.

Most (1st gen) tacos I've seen get more adjustment out of the rear lower cams than the fronts - putting the rear of the lowers outboard and the front of the uppers outboard gives your spindle the most positive caster and really shouldn't need the front of the rears and the back of the uppers far from a more neutral setting (uppers can be a couple threads showing past the jamb nut which isn't too far off of where you have them if there's a 1/4" of space there right now). Just tweak things and go with max caster that gives you 0* camber on each side and maybe dial back the caster on the side that has more so both sides match - with 6* you're definitely in a nice position to be in.

CAD (MS Office CAD)




Then get your toe close enough that driving it to an alignment shop won't give you a hard time. With the coilovers out and the arms still at ride height, I like to make sure the steering wheel is obviously in the middle of the full amount of turns it can make and adjust my tie rods to match eachother by eyeballing the rotors to be roughly at 0* toe and then setting the truck on its own weight. Using this method I've got it really close a few times

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6EllJTMrZs

There's better ways, just a simple diy method.

 

That all makes sense - I’ll buy an angle finder and cycle some stuff tomorrow and get a rough start. sorry if my post was a cluster to read and make any sense of lol!

And No Sir haha, I am on 315’s. The readout just says that.

 

I have one of

$209 SPC Performance FasTrax Camber/Caster Gauge (for 13-17in. Wheels)

these I use for alignments and they work good. It's hard to gauge what are good surfaces to measure from the frame with when using an angle finder.