Rear locker swap from non locker, how do you wire it up?

Huge +1 on this.

Can always test the actuator outside of the vehicle install.

 

More than you probably wanted to know.
The limit switches in the actuator are pretty much required to get consistent full engagement of the actual locker mechanism in the diff because the actuator has an internal spring that allows it to run to it's full intended range, hit the limit switches and then shut off when the actual locker splines in the diff have not yet aligned.


This is the simplest DIY stand alone wiring using no relay, no momentary switch and has been around for 20+ years. Pin out and wire colors vary between Tacos, Cruisers, years ect and does not work with factory switch. Use the Taco FSM "system wiring diagram" for "rear differential lock" for actual wire colors and pin out of the Taco "BO1" connector.
The motor ground can be common with the/an indicator lamp (if used) ground for a total of 6 wires. Do not use the frame as a ground, run the ground all the way to at least a cab ground.



If the actuator has been removed it must be installed with a specific procedure to preload the previously mentioned spring. See the last bit below about the slot, pin and rotating the actuator once in place. The FSM says to use a 1.5v battery to test run or position the actuator to be safe in the event of a short. You can use 12v if you are very very careful and remove the wire as soon as the motor stops. A 1.5v battery runs the motor very slow. Folks have been known to use 2 or 3 1.5v batteries in series to get a little bit more definitive movement.


And make sure the actuator vent hose is in place and runs to a dry spot. Looks like a small vacuum hose. The factory runs it into a hole in the frame above the axle and terminates it with a little plug to help shed water.
Note the slits across the tip of the plug. Feel free to improvise here or combine the vent with an "extended diff breather".

 

Thanks for posting!

A great Write up.